Wine:It's boom-time for the off-licences
The good folks of the National Off-Licence Association (Nofla) shared a drink and broke some bread at their annual shindig recently. Business has never been better for the 330 members, with Irish wine sales up by 70 per cent since 2000 - a total of 8.2 million cases - with two-thirds of that being sold in off-licences, according to association chairman Jim McCabe.
However, the understandable concern over underage and binge drinking refuses to go away and McCabe addressed this issue by calling for mandatory training for all managers and staff working in off-licensed outlets. With the liberalisation of licensing and the resultant availability of alcohol in an increasing number of retail outlets, the prospect of greater alcohol abuse will increase if staff in those businesses are not properly trained, said McCabe.
He believes that the "Responsible Trading in the Community" training programme, which all Nofla members must undertake as a requirement of membership, was a ready-made blueprint for a State-wide training project to promote responsible retailing of alcohol.
Aside from those comments aimed squarely at competitors such as convenience stores and petrol stations, Nofla members, which include such big-hitters as O'Briens and O'Donovan's, were also digesting the new "gold star" wine awards which were decided by an independent expert panel. A total of 15 wines received awards with two wines singled out as "White Wine of the Year" - Masi Masianco Pinot Grigio 2006 (€15), and "Wine of the Year" - Berringer Old Vine Zinfandel Red, Founder's Estate, 2004 (€13.99). Other winners worth checking out include Altozano,Tempranillo 2004 (€7.99); Portia, Ribera del duero 2004 (€18.99; Knappstein Three Gewurztraminer, Clare Valley 2007 (€15.99) and Piper-Heidsieck NV (€38.99). All the winners should be available at Nofla-affiliated off-licences. The awards also serve to remind us of the value of the local off-licence. In my area of Greystones in Wicklow we are lucky to have numerous outlets including a well-run O'Brien's and Denis Byrne's Cheers off-licence in nearby Delgany.
This is a model of the maverick enthusiast whose knowledge and interest leads him to place exotic and inviting bottles on his shelves. After a long struggle he believes the shop has turned the corner and sales are beginning to justify his policy of stocking quality wines. Retailers like Denis Byrne are the heartbeat of the wine trade in Ireland with their willingness to turn their backs on the easy cash of the big brands and instead invest in wines a little less obvious.
Nofla members weren't the only wine trade folks out on the town. Berry Brothers & Rudd recently brought their big 2006 Bordeaux en primeur roadshow to Dublin's RHA Gallery, complete with about 30 chateaux representatives. It was an interesting public tasting (tickets cost €40) with the 2006s showing well compared to their negative advance billing. The few months since the en primeur tasting in April has given them a little more personality. It also confirmed the impression gained at an earlier, and smaller, tasting by Gleesons wine merchants in Dublin, that some good wines were made in what was generally thought a poor vintage.
One example of this was Phelan Segur, which was as impressive as it was at the Gleeson tasting. Many of the chateaux were also showing other vintages, mostly the little heralded 2004s, but it was striking the difference in quality between the vintages and the prices being charged. The 2006s may be better than first thought, but they are still dauntingly expensive for what they are.