Cahors, Coronas and Chinon may not be fashionable, but they are well worth tasting
THE INSPIRATION FOR this week’s column comes from a reader who wrote lovingly of his three favourite French wines, and visits to the regions that produced them – coincidentally, they all begin with C.
To me, each seemed to typify the positives in French winemaking; wines with a history and tradition that exhibit a unique local character. Each lies in a different region of France and uses indigenous grape varieties to make a wine with a very distinct identity. None could be seen as wildly successful on the international stage, possibly because production is too small, but more likely because the wines do not conform to current international tastes. For that very reason alone, we should search them out and give them an airing; but in addition all three are capable of making truly great wines that will age with real style and grace.
I would love to give you a wonderfully sweeping description of each area, but I haven’t visited any of the three. Sometimes this is a good idea, as it allows you to keep hold of your romantic notions; visiting your favourite wine area can be a disappointing experience.
The black wine of Cahors is well-known to any wine-lover, although in reality few will ever have tasted it. Back in the early 18th century, the vignerons of Cahors sometimes heated their grape juice or wine to increase colour and extract, and then fortified with alcohol – a sort of Port, that was very popular in the UK and elsewhere, and also a great addition to other wines.
I tasted one example of a true black wine some years ago. Recreated by Clos Triguedina (see below), it fell into the “interesting” category, rather than “I must buy a case”.
In times past, Cahors was a major producer of wine. In the mid 19th century, there were almost 100,000 acres under vine; today there are less than 15,000. Much of the wine, deeply coloured and tannic, was used by the Bordelaise to improve their light, even anaemic reds. The grape here is Malbec, otherwise known as Cot in Bordeaux, and even more confusingly as Auxerrois in Cahors. It is normally blended with small amounts of Merlot and Tannat. Malbec was exported to Argentina over a century ago, where it is now the most widely planted variety. They are very different wines, however.
The standard inexpensive Cahors is not often found in this country; they have a similar style to Madiran, firm, structured and dry, often with an acidic streak. They are great wines to drink alongside a rare steak or grilled duck breast, but not easy to drink on their own. But at a higher level, there are a number of very ambitious growers who make superb wines. Some have opted for a more modern route, using ripe fruits, micro-oxygenation and new oak. Others favour a more traditional style, firm and unyielding for the first few years, wonderfully piquant and elegant (but never charming) with a few years’ age.
The second “C”, Cornas, is a tiny appellation, a mere 225 acres, tucked away in the elbow of the river Rhône. As part of the northern Rhône, the wine is made exclusively from the Syrah grape. The vineyards are all in a semicircular basin stretching back from the river just northwest of Valence, sheltered and sunny, one of the hottest parts of the northern Rhône. Grapes here ripen at least a week earlier than in Hermitage, just across the river. This warmer climate makes for some of the bigger, sturdier wines of the region. This is all relative, however, as northern Rhône wines are never very powerful.
I have many happy memories of drinking 10-year-old Cornas from Auguste Clape in the mid-1990s; the best were wonderfully light and delicate, with flavours of prunes and liquorice – ripe, but with a slightly drying savoury bite on the finish.
They are still deeply unfashionable in this country, but I have a particular liking for the red wines of the Loire; the sandy, gravelly soils of Bourgueil, Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil and Chinon – the third "C" – produce some light elegantly fruity reds. These are pretty wines, fresh and lightly fruity, often with some acidity, best drunk lightly chilled with salmon or charcuterie. The French call these vin de soif– thirst-quenchers of the best kind. The deeper soils further up from the river produce more substantial (but still elegant) wines with flavours of redcurrants and summer pudding and an addictive grippy pepperiness on the finish.
These are wines that have certainly benefited from improved wine-making and global warming too. In the past, there were some very green herbaceous wines. The best can age brilliantly too.
I have tasted sublime 10-year-old Chinon from several producers. All these areas use the Cabernet France grape, widely used in partnership with Merlot in parts of Bordeaux.
Sourcing Cahors
I was pleasantly surprised to find that several wine merchants import Cahors. In addition to the wines listed below, I tasted several excellent wines from Clos des Gamots and Domaine Chevaliers d’Homes at the Wicklow Wine Company (www.wicklowwineco.ie). The Clos des Gamots 2000 (€19) showed a wonderful maturity and perfect structure. I also tried a very well-priced Château de Flore 2006 (€13.50) from Bubble Brothers in Cork (www.bubblebrothers.com).
Sourcing Cornas
The most widely-known name here is Jaboulet which owns significant plots of vines. I enjoyed the 2006 Les Grands Terraces at a recent tasting. One of the leading, more modern-styled domaines, Domaine Courbis, is available from 64wine in Glasthule, Co Dublin. The Wicklow Wine Company has the superb Cornas 2006 from Domaine de Tunel for €42.90 (www.wicklowwineco.ie). Greenacres in Wexford is currently running an offer on Cornas from Auguste Clape, traditionally one of the very best names in the region (www.greenacres.ie).
Sourcing Chinon
James Nicholson (www.jnwine.com) offers the excellent wines of Charles Joguet in Chinon; another leading estate to look out for is Couly-Dutheil. Moving outside of Chinon, O’Briens may still have some Château de Varrains Saumur-Chjampigny 2001. Searsons (01-2800405) has a delightful Saumur-Champigny from Domaine Mabileau, and the Wicklow Wine Company (www.wicklowwineco.ie) has the Très Franc (a fascinating vin de pays) from Domaine Mourat.
BOTTLES OF THE WEEK
Cahors Clos Triguedina 2005, 13.5%, €25.90One of the best-known names in Cahors, made by Jean-Luc Baldès. Elegant relatively ripe redcurrant and dark fruits, with some austerity, and good mineral length. Drink or keep. Try it with substantial red meat dishes. Stockist: Bubble Brothers, Cork.
Cahors Château du Cèdre 'Le Prestige' 2005, 13.5%, €19.95-€21.95A more modern, but brilliantly-crafted Cahors, that is one of my all-time favourite wines. Deeply concentrated ripe dark fruits with a firm cloak of tannin, and an excellent finish. A rare steak or duck confit would provide a good match. Stockists: Mitchell Son, Rathfarnham; Avoca Food Halls; Fallon and Byrne, Exchequer Street, D2; selected OBriens; The Corkscrew; Enowine IFSC and Monkstown; Liston's, Camden Street, Dublin; Michael's Wines, Mount Merrion, Dublin; French Flair, Tralee and Le Caveau, Kilkenny.
Cornas, Brise Caillou, Matthieu Barret 2006, 13%, €39.99A seriously good wine that is well worth the price. Deeply-coloured with a big, slightly earthy nose, also showing some dark fruits. The palate is powerful but perfectly balanced, with intense dark fruits and nicely judged spicy oak. There is a lovely mineral bite to the finish, too. Ideally, keep it a year or two, but otherwise try it with a roast of beef or a herby daube. Stockists: Jus de Vine, Portmarknock; 64 Wine, Glasthule; www.thestoreroom.ie
Chinon Les Granges 2006 Bernard Baudry, 13%, €16This is a very stylish light-bodied wine with beautifully concentrated summer fruits, and a lightly tannic finish. Try it with creamy chicken dishes, or charcuterie. Baudry also makes one of my favourite rosés, prefect summer drinking, and one of the few rosés for which it is worth shelling out more than €12. Stockists: On the Grapevine, Dalkey and Booterstown; Cabot Co., Westport; Liston's, Camden Street; Poppy Seed, Clarinbridge; The Wine Room, One Pery Square, Limerick.
WHERE TO BUY
Some readers are having difficulty sourcing some of the wines listed on these pages. I try to select wines with good availability, but I always choose on merit first, rather than easy access. A great many specialist wine retailers have a mail-order service, and most have websites.
TWO AROUND €12
Rueda Spanish Steps 2008, 12%, €10.99A vibrant refreshing blend of Sauvignon with the local Verdejo, this delivers plenty of crisp green fruits combined with grapefruit zest. Drink on its own or with fish. Stockist: Superquinn.
Priorat Los 800 2004, 14%, €11.99 (for the month of February)There are very few wines from Priorat under €20, let alone €12. This stunningly beautiful mountainous region, which lies inland from Barcelona, produces intense powerful wines from low-yielding Garnacha vines, along with various international varieties. This is a voluptuous wine, with loose-knit soft strawberry fruits and toasty, spicy notes. Perfect with a lamb tagine. Stockists: OBriens
