WINE:Riesling is a rewarding grape, once you surrender your snobbery, writes JOHN WILSON.
IS THE trickle about to become a torrent? Over the past few years, there have been promising signs that German Riesling is about to make a real breakthrough on the Irish market. This will bring a smile of satisfaction to the small but determined group of closet Riesling-lovers, used to being mocked at every turn for many years. I speak as a paid-up member.
Let me nail my own colours to the mast. I consider Riesling and Chardonnay to be the world's two greatest white grape varieties. No other grape can offer the same depth, complexity and ageability. We all drink Chardonnay, but few put Riesling to their lips. A pity, as we are missing out on some of the world's greatest wines.
Germany is not only the home of Riesling, it produces the finest examples you can find. Austria and Alsace come a close second, followed by Australia. No other country can offer those pin-point, crystal-clear, pristine, delicate fruits, combined with that refined crisp acidity.
So why haven't we Irish been drinking more of this wonderful elixir? Some of us still remember Liebfraumilch, that mawkish sweet liquid that masqueraded as wine in the 1970s and 1980s. Germany then and now actually produced some excellent medium-dry wines, but we have steadfastly refused to drink them.
However, over the past decade Germany has developed a different, drier style of Riesling. My own eyes were first opened five years ago in Austria. Sitting on a judging panel to find the world's greatest Riesling, I tasted some 40 wines blind. When the names were revealed, I was surprised to see that seven of my top 10 wines were from Germany, mostly names I had never heard of. Talking afterwards to my fellow judges, it became clear that they were all too aware of the changes that had taken place. It was we Irish (and English) that were living in a time warp. German wine is now hugely popular in the US and amongst the best-selling white wines throughout Scandinavia.
It was in the 1980s and early 1990s that a small group of German winemakers began making dry Riesling. Some argue that it is merely a return to the kind of wine made a century ago, others say that it is a new departure. I am not sure, but one thing I do know. Tasting dry Riesling back then sometimes required dental insurance as most had enamel-stripping levels of acidity. But now all has changed. Helped by a string of excellent vintages, and possibly global warming, Germany now offers a huge range of world-beating crisp dry white wines.
Some of the lengthy names can be very hard for an Irish tongue to pronounce. Some of the wines are off-dry or sweet. But look out for the words Riesling and either Trocken (dry) or Halbtrocken on the label, and you will have a treat in store. The flavours are a little different, running from crisp green apples to the more exotic pears, peaches and pineapples, sometimes with more than a lick of honey. Conquer these two minor problems and a world of exciting wines awaits you. Drink them as an aperitif, or with seafood, fish chicken and pork.
Prices for the finest wines are still incredibly cheap compared to any other established region, around €25 to €35. But they have already started to rise. Remember, a century ago the best German Riesling cost as much as the Mouton-Rothschilds and Latours of this world. I predict that in five years time they will be unaffordable to all but the super-rich. In the meantime, I intend filling my cellar with some of the greatest wines the world has to offer.
Sourcing German Riesling
Karwig wines in Carrigaline, Cork has long been a source of excellent German wines. More recently they have been joined by the Wicklow Wine Company. The online company www.vinum-x-tellus has a great range, too. Otherwise, Redmond's in Ranelagh, James Nicholson, Berry Brothers and Mitchell & Son all have a good selection. Of the supermarkets, Marks & Spencer takes Germany most seriously, with some very fine examples.
Bottles of the week
Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan Riesling Trocken 2006, Pfalz, 12%, €16-€17.Delicious fresh tangy grapefruit and green apple fruits, with a light spritz. A wonderful aperitif, or posh party wine. The antique label alone is worth the purchase. Stockists:Fallon & Byrne, Exchequer St; Wicklow Wine Co; Donnybrook Fair; Redmond's, Ranelegh; Red Island Wine Co, Skerries; Partridges, Gorey; The Corkscrew, Chatham Street, Dublin 2; Power & Smullen, Lucan.
Schloss Schönborn Erbacher Marcobrunnen Riesling Spätlese Trocken 2005, 12.5%, €15.99.Lovely soft ripe pears with a lifting citrus note, and a persistent dry finish. This would make a perfect aperitif, as well as making an ideal partner for oriental chicken and pork dishes. Stockist:O'Briens
Carl Erhard Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling Spätlese Trocken 2006, Rheingau, 12.5%, €17.65.You see what I mean about the names - most customers just ask for the Erhard Green Label. This would make a fantastic introduction to the world of German wines. Lip-smacking rich honeyed fruits combine with a spine-tingling acidity to create a wonderful perfectly balanced wine of huge class. Drink on its own, or with chicken dishes. Stockists:Eugene's, Kenmare; Hurley's Supervalu, Middleton; Garvey's Supervalu, Tralee; Scully's Supervalu, Blackrock, Cork; Cullen's Supervalu, Carrigaline; The Rebel, Kinsale; Karwig Wines, Carrigaline; O'Briens branches - Donnybrook, Beacon, Blackrock, Carlow, Rathmines, Limerick, Dún Laoghaire and Malahide.
Georg Breuer Berg Roseneck Riesling 2005, Rheingau, 13%, €32.95.A great wine from one of the top winemakers in the Rheignau; rich, powerful pineapple, orange and honey fruits, almost exotic in style, with great length. Majestic wine that needs some lightly spicy pork or chicken to bring out its wonderful best. Stockists:Wicklow Wine Co.; The Corkscrew, Chatham Street, Dublin 2; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Redmond's, Ranelagh.
WINE DINNER:
Anthony Barton, proprietor of two of the greatest Châteaux in Bordeaux, Château Léoville-Barton and Château Langoa-Barton, and wine merchant James Nicholson, will host a dinner at the Belle Isle Estate, in Co Fermanagh on May 29th. Tickets are £150 a head. To book telephone 048-66387231 (from RoI), 028-66387231 (from NI).
Two around €10:
Mineralstein Riesling 2006, Rhein-Mosel, 12%, €9.99.Unusual in that it is made from grapes from two distinct regions of Germany. This is one of my favourite dry whites, very keenly priced, and very reliable. Zingy, crisp dry white with lovely clean pear fruits. Perfect on its own, or with seafood starters. Stockist:Marks & Spencer.
Steillage Riesling 2006, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, 11%, €10.99.Not quite dry, but a very pleasant easy fruity wine with a clean mineral streak and flavours of pear and peach. Good served solo, or with lightly spicy Asian dishes. Stockist:Tesco.