MARSEILLES: Second only to Paris in population terms, and a stone's throw from Cannes, the French port offers breaks with bite, writes Eithne Shortall
IF YOUR idea of a perfect weekend on France's Mediterranean strip involves beaches of fine sand, crowds of beautiful people and locals born and bred to entertain tourists, then Marseilles' younger and more sophisticated sister, Cannes, will be only too happy to have a willowy waitress seat you on a picturesque veranda - and charge you a very trendy price. If, however, you are looking for depth in more places than the aqua-green sea, Marseilles is as substantial as it gets.
With a strong fishing industry, one of the highest immigration rates in France and a complicated history with the rest of the country, Marseilles has developed its own culture, architecture and attitude to become the perfect destination for those who like their cities with a bit of bite.
Second in both size and population to Paris, it is the oldest metropolis in France. The Greeks arrived around 600 BC, looking for a European trading centre. It was later ruled by the Romans, spent several stints as a French city, served as a Moorish marketplace and was an independent republic for the early part of the 13th century.
Years of oppression and constant waves of immigration - a quarter of the population is north African, with a further 10 per cent coming from Armenia - have taken their toll on Marseilles. Unemployment is high, and chunks of the city's citizens live in slums. But its charged history and eclectic demographic make-up have also created a dynamic place with relatively low prices and a flourishing arts scene.
Following an enthusiastic campaign by city officials and the area's five museums, Marseilles was recently chosen to be European Capital of Culture in 2013. The official reign is almost four years away, but already tourists can reap the rewards of the locals' hard work.
La Vieille Charité, a workhouse turned cultural centre, is just one place hosting an internationally appealing exhibition. Its Van Gogh-Monticelli show, which looks at the influence that the Dutch master drew from Adolphe Monticelli - a Marseilles man who is also said to have influenced the style of Paul Cézanne - runs until January.
The cultural centre is in Le Panier, the oldest part of the city. Wandering through the quarter's uneven and often steep cobbled streets while peering through the windows of its many ethnic restaurants and diverse shops, you could as easily be in eastern Europe, north Africa or the Middle East.
East of Le Panier is the Old Fishing Port. This acts as one of the city's focal points and hosts lively fish bazaars on weekend mornings. The market's smell lasts much longer than its goods, with shoppers lining up as early as the stalls. It is here that the contents of the famed local dish bouillabaisse are caught and sold. Natives say the seafood stew has existed as long as the city and is served nowhere else in the country.
Marseilles' independent spirit makes it a popular destination for French holidaymakers looking for something different without leaving home. But despite being a large city by the sea, it has never been overly popular with foreign tourists. As a result, finding a bed or waiting in line for attractions are not major concerns.
One must-do activity that never involves a queue is a trip to Les Calanques. These jagged limestone cliffs run for 20km between Marseilles and the neighbouring, more tourist-friendly town of Cassis.
While both communities offer boat trips, the best way to see the cliffs is during a day trip to Cassis, where you can explore them on foot. An easy 90-minute walking tour has been marked out, and various local plants and birds are identified along the route. No matter how many people visit Les Calanques on a given day, you are likely to find a small cove that you can claim as your own for a couple of hours - and even use as a diving board for a dip in the crystal-clear sea.
Cassis is a 20-minute train ride from Marseilles, and if the gritty reality of the big city gets to you, and you realise that idyllic surroundings were what you were looking for after all, that pretty Cannes waitress is just another 90 minutes away.
Where to stay, where to eat and where to go if you're in Marseilles for the weekend
5 places to stay
1Hôtel le Corbusier. 280 Boulevard Michelet, 00-33-4-91167800, www.hotellecorbusier.com. As close as it gets to sleeping in a museum, this striking tower block was designed by the renowned architect after whom the hotel is named. The hotel, on the third floor, hasn't changed the decor since 1952. From €59 for a "cabin room".
2Villa Massalia Concorde. 17 Place Louis Bonnefon, 00-33-4-91729000, http://marseille.concorde- hotels.fr. This luxury hotel, completed last year, has an indoor and a heated outdoor pool. Double rooms from €160 to €310.
3St Ferréol's Hotel. 19 Rue Pisancon, 00-33-4-91331221, www.hotel-stferreol.com. Located in the middle of Marseille's shopping district, this three-star hotel is particularly proud of its marble baths and jazuccis. Double rooms start at €95.
4Azur Hotel. 24 Cours Franklin Roosevelt, 00-33-4- 91427438, www.azur-hotel.fr. Well placed in the heart of the city, but without the night-time hustle and bustle keeping you awake. Double rooms start at €67; family rooms €110.
5Hôtel Vertigo. 42 Rue Petites Maries, 00-33-4- 91910711, www.hotelvertigo.fr. On the edge of Le Panier, this hostel can involve an intimidating walk back after dark, but the rooms are clean and the friendly staff are happy to advise you on the best route home. Dorm beds from €18.
5 places to eat
1The quays of the Old Port. Fish is the food of choice in Marseilles, and that served by the many restaurants along the east side of the harbour is among the freshest available. Be sure to try bouillabaisse, the local seafood stew.
2Le Petit Nice. Corniche JF Kennedy, 00-33-4-91592808, www.petitnice-passedat.com. This seafood restaurant was the only Marseille restaurant to be given a third Michelin star last year. Set menus €110-€300.
3Le Canard Boiteux. 38 Rue Saint Saëns, 00-33-4-91330582. One of the few truly "French" aspects of Marseilles, this restaurant embraces its national identity from the food to the tablecloths. Set menus about €30.
4La Trilogie des Cépages. 35 Rue de la Paix-Paul Marcel, 00-33-4-91339603, www.trilogiedescepages.com. The eclectic range of dishes at this central eatery is particularly popular with locals. Set menus start at €25.
5L'Auberg'in. 25 Rue du Chevalier Roze, 00-33-4- 91905159. While it serves a range of meat dishes, L'Auberg'in is best known for its vegetarian plates. It offers lunchtime and early-bird menus starting at €16.
5 places to go
1Musée Cantini. 19 Rue Grignan, 00-33-4-91547775, www.marseille.fr/vdm/cms/ culture/musees/musee_cantini. The city's finest gallery is a must-see for art lovers. It houses works by Raoul Dufy, Alberto Giacometti, Henri Matisse and Pablo Picasso.
2Château d'If. This former prison is located on the island of If, off the coast of Marseilles. It was the setting for Alexandre Dumas's The Count of Monte Cristo, and the appalling conditions of the cells have been distressingly well maintained. Boats run daily from the Old Port.
3Notre Dame de la Garde. You get the best view of the Old Port - and most of Marseilles - by taking a trip to this basilica, perched on a hill east of the port. The building was extensively restored a couple of years ago. Its gold statue of the Virgin Mary can be spotted from any part of Marseilles, making it the city's most striking landmark.
4Cassis. This friendly seaside village is just east of Marseilles. With its beautiful harbour and view of Les Calanques, it was made to adorn postcards. The TGV and buses leave regularly from Marseilles' Gare SNCF Saint Charles. Twenty minutes by train or 45 minutes by bus.
5The Corniches. Even if the terrain is more stone than sand, Marseilles' beaches are always worth a visit. If you're feeling energetic start at Plage du Prado and stroll along the sea road back into the city.
Shopping
Unless you're looking to buy fish, Marseille is not a retail destination. You'll find all the high-street names in the city's shopping district, on Rue de Rome and Rue Paradis. Quirkier boutiques can be found slightly farther north, around Place Jean Jaurès.
Hot spots
Le Bazar. 90 Boulevard Rabatau, 00-33-4-91790888. If you're willing to dance until dawn - that's the official closing time of this nightclub - then follow the locals down to Le Bazar. The DJs play mainly dance music, with some popular songs thrown in, and prices won't hinder your rehydration.For the French version of a pub crawl, head to Place Jean Jaurès. Start at Le Petit Nice (26 Place Jean Jaurès) and work your way through the area's many bohemian drinking holes before finishing up on the slightly livelier Cours Julien.
Cool cafes
A relaxing Sunday coffee is best enjoyed at one of the numerous cafes lining the Old Port. Take a seat under one of the outdoor heaters and watch locals fight for the freshest fish.
What to avoid
Wandering around the lower parts of La Canebière, the road leading north from the port, and Le Panier after dark.
Get in the mood
Read The Little Prince by Antoine de Saint Exupéry. If you've never read it, this is as good a time as any to get a short classic under your belt. And if you can get through the French version, even better.
Go there
Aer Lingus (www.aerlingus. com) and Ryanair (www. ryanair.com) fly from Dublin to Marseilles.