ETHICAL TRAVELLER:
CATHERINE MACKon responsible tourism
Hagal Farm in west Cork Janny and Fred Wieler, greeted me with herbal tea which looked like a work of art. A glass jug on a candle warmer, gently infusing home grown fennel, liquorice root, cardamom and an apple, a rose perfectly poised on the jug’s brim. This sums up Hagal perfectly because everything here embraces nature, simple beauty and natural healing.
There is something almost fairy-like about this hideaway in the Maughanaclea Hills overlooking Bantry Bay. The entrance to the main house is via a rose-covered stone staircase, past a burgeoning herb garden and signs to “The Labyrinth”.
The separate entrance to the bedrooms is hobbitesque, leading to four rooms, which in turn take you to a mystical spiral staircase. Handmade by Fred from local wood, this brings you past a sauna to a communal sitting room in the attic, the crystals and candles illuminating this space keeping my feet firmly in fairy land all the way.
My room was modestly furnished, warm and comfy, with fresh flowers, candles and hot water bottles by the bed. Not that I needed one, with the efficient solar powered underground heating. On another eco note, the en suite loos led down to a reed bed across the field for natural waste disposal, and all water is sourced from the river and nearby well.
The food here, however, is made by a god, not the fairies. Fred’s freshly made scones alone will have you booking a place on one of his cookery weekends. I highly recommend opting for dinner as well, with organic vegetarian cuisine at its best served in a vine-covered conservatory with, if you stay in season, grapes almost willing to land on your cheese plate. Coffee was served in the living room, a den of warmth emanating not only from the roaring fire, but from the very fabric of this house.
Hagal is the perfect base for visiting other hideaways along this rugged coast: the islands, some of which are just a stone’s throw from the mainland, but which feel like a world away when you get there. I am on a mission to discover a new one every year at least, not only because they represent our natural heritage at its finest, but because they are also in much need of tourism income.
There is Whiddy Island, a short boat ride from Bantry, and with the bizarre juxtaposition of the oil terminal on one side, and quiet coves on the other; Long Island, with its stunning walks along shingle beaches, accessible from Colla Bay just outside Schull; or Bere/Bear Island, accessible from Castletownbere and where, if you cycle all the way around, you can have an archaeological feast of Victorian military fortifications, standing stones and ring forts. For information on all islands, see irelandsislands.com. Or just take on some of the extraordinary walking terrain of the Sheeps Head Way (thesheepsheadway.ie).
Back on the farm, you can opt for one of many holistic treatments or book a healing weekend such as massage, detox or reflexology, either to learn the techniques on one of their many courses, or to be the lucky recipient from one of the team of experts.
Or just sit back, and see what the Hagal fairies have in store for you. Because Hagal is what you want to make it and no one will try and read your aura if that is not your thing. It is just a place to wrap up in wellbeing and warmth, really. Indeed, the word Hagal is a “rune sign” meaning to embrace all opposites.
And with all the negativity in the world at the moment, I defy anyone to leave this haven not feeling better about themselves and more than just a bit more positive about everything.
* hagalholistichealth.com
* Read Catherine’s blog at ethicaltraveller.net and follow her at twitter.com/catherine mack
