Girona includes all of the culture and friendliness of its bigger brother but at a much slower pace, which is what makes it an attractive location for a visit, writes CONOR GALLAGHER
TAKE A TRAIN from the hustle, noise and heat of Barcelona and in little more than an hour you will be in Girona. This is what Barcelona would be if you got rid of the griminess, crime and overpriced shops and put the rest into an area no bigger than Kilkenny.
The city includes all of the culture and friendliness of its bigger brother but at a much slower pace (which makes for a duller nightlife in the eyes of some).
It is possible Girona has learned to relax after centuries of remarkably turbulent history. Conquered by the Romans, the Moors, the Visigoths and Napoleon, to name but a few, the city has been captured seven times and undergone 25 sieges.
The locals are understandably proud of this history and are not shy about pointing it out to visitors. As the owner of our centuries-old apartment showed us around, he indicated the room across the street. He explained it was Emperor Napoleon’s private apartment during his siege of the city; it now houses a slightly less remarkable travel agent.
Girona contains all of the normal features of a regular-sized city – McDonald’s, supermarkets and office blocks – but they all lie on the other side of the Onyar river. For the short-stay visitor there is little to see around this area, especially when there’s a wealth of museums, restaurants and ruins in the restored old town.
Between the sieges and battles, a vibrant Jewish community grew up in this area, turning it into a major trading post. It was also the birthplace of Hollywood’s religion du jour, Kabbalah, more than 500 years ago.
Little remains of the Jewish community, as its members were expelled from the city during the Inquisition, but they left behind one of the best- preserved Jewish quarters in Europe, the Call, a series of narrow streets surrounded on all sides by towering buildings. A walk there during the day is an eerie experience, as light struggles to break through the high tenements. During the night it is even stranger, with old-fashioned street lights creating shadows everywhere you look.
Wander around the Call for long enough and you will suddenly be confronted with Girona’s breathtaking cathedral. Visitors who can manage the 90 steps to the entrance are rewarded with five-metre altars and the widest nave in Europe. The undoubted highlight is the Tapestry of Creation, an epic depiction of the known world eight centuries ago.
The city’s (surprisingly numerous) museums are hit and miss. The new Museu del Cinema, a tribute to the early days of cinema, contains more than 30,000 exhibits and is a treat for any buff.
The History Museum, largely devoted, as far as we could tell, to farm machinery, is an exercise in boredom, especially as many of the exhibits lack an English explanation.
The building itself is of note, however. It was originally a monastery, and the first room on your right as you enter used to display the mummified corpses of the monks. Fortunately for the squeamish, if not for the museum’s interest level, these are long gone.
The most enjoyable way to spend time in Girona is to undertake a rigorous schedule of walking, eating and, as the day wears on, drinking. You’ll find attractive and friendly tapas bars on most corners, and a snack or glass of regional wine is the perfect way to gear up for the next round of museums and churches.
Decent restaurants are plentiful. Serious foodies will want to check out the Michelin-starred El Celler de Can Roca, which mixes Catalan and French cuisine. Cheaper eats can be found at Call Ros, which specialises in traditional Catalonian food, such as pig’s trotters and snails.
Girona is not a city that comes alive at night. You’ll find some bars and clubs around Plaça Independècia, but they tend not to get very busy. Cafes will happily let you sip your drinks until well after midnight, however, which is a perfect time to go for a walk along the city walls, which were built to withstand Girona’s constant attackers. Several sections remain intact. The walkways are well lit, and a stroll at night is the perfect opportunity to see this beautiful city bathed in street light.
Where to stay, where to eat and where to go on a visit to Girona
5 places to stay
Costabella. Avda França 61, 00-34-972-202524, www.hotelcostabella.com. A modern, cheap hotel just outside Girona, making it a good base for exploring the area. Double rooms from €80.
Bellmirall. Carrer Bellmirall 3, 00-34-972-204009. A simple, charming hostel in the centre of town. It was converted from a medieval mansion. Doubles from €87.
Carlemany. Plaça Miquel Santalo 1, 00-34-972-211212, www.carlemany.es. A large modern establishment close to the old town. Like most hotels in the area, it has no pool. Double rooms from €115.
Peninsular. Avda Sant Francesc 6, 00-34-902-734541, www.novarahotels. Not a lot to this hotel except its location. In the middle of the old town, it’s perfect for the serious explorer. Double rooms from €82.
Husaultonia. Av Jaume I 22, 00-34-972-203850, www.hotelhusaultonia.com. Attractive building with simple, functional rooms. Five minutes from the main sights. Doubles from €70.
5 places to eat
El Celler de Can Roca. Can Sunyer 48, 00-34-972- 2222157, www.cellercan roca.com. Widely considered Girona’s best restaurant, this family institution has been awarded two Michelin stars.
Cal Ross. Carrer Cort Reial 9, 00-34-972-219176, www.calros-restaurant.com. More than 100 years old, this restaurant gives a modern twist to Catalonian favourites.
El Pou del Call. Carrer de la Forca 14, 00-34-972-223774. A charming little eatery in the centre of the Jewish district. The set menu is great value. In keeping with its location, the restaurant offers kosher wine.
Mar Placa. 35 Plaça Independència 3, 00-34-972-205962. Fish, fish and more fish. This restaurant is famous for its Catalan flair and fresh seafood.
El Balcó. Carrer de les Hortes, 00-34-972-223161, www.elbalcorestaurant.com.
A meat lover’s heaven, this Argentinian-style restaurant offers beef, pork, lamb and more, all grilled in front of your eyes.
5 places to go
Passeig de la Muralla. A walk along the city’s restored walls is a must. Climb the stairs near Plaça de Catalunya and walk along the wall, taking in the breathtaking views of the lush countryside.
Banys Arabs. The Arab baths were built in the 13th century, well after the Moors had departed Girona, and are among the best preserved of their kind in Spain. Walk through the cool, warm and hot chambers to the rooftop gallery for a great view of the skyline.
Museu del Cinema. Carrer de la Sequia 1, 00-34-972-412777, www.museudelcinema.org. Based on a huge collection bought by the city in 1994, this new museum features exhibits such as projectors and optic boxes from the early days of cinema.
Museu d’Arqueologia de Catalunya. Carrer de Santa Llúcia 8, 00-34-972-202632, www.mac.cat. The Catalonian Archaeological Museum, housed in an abandoned monastery, gives a fascinating cross section of the region’s history. Highlights include fourth-century milestones showing the distance to Gerunda (the Roman name for Girona) and a series of ancient Jewish tombstones.
Girona Cathedral. www.catedraldegirona.org. Aside from the obvious attraction of seeing this magnificent Gothic building up close, the Cathedral also contains a museum featuring ornate gold work and tapestries.
Where to shop
Girona has a host of odd little shops selling art, candles and even magic tricks. Bookworms are well catered for, and chocolate lovers should check out Gluki, on Carrer Argenteria, which has been making people fat since 1880. Celler D’en Pere, on Plaça de l’Oli, is also worth a visit to buy some wine straight from the barrel.
Hot spots
Naturally, there are at least two Irish bars in the town centre. Avoid these and head to the main square to relax in Café el Cercle or La Llibreria, where you can enjoy laid-back jazz. Sunset Jazz Club offers a slightly livelier experience as well as some great cocktails. Revellers wanting to continue the night can head to Mas de Nit or Blau, just outside the city.
Festivals
A re-enactment of the crucifixion takes place on Good Friday, featuring actors dressed as Romans parading through the streets. The main festival is Sant Narcis’ fair, in October, when residents celebrate their patron saint with a week of bullfights, puppets and bonfires.
What to avoid
The town’s history museum is worth a miss, and many of the areas around Palacio de la Consitucio can be dangerous to wander around at night alone.
Classic buildings
The buildings that line the west bank of the River Onyar, which were designed in the modernist style, have stood the test of time. Two in particular, by local architect Rafael Masó, stand out, with yellow owls adorning the facade and green spires on the roofs.
“The most enjoyable way to spend time in Girona is to undertake a rigorous schedule of walking, eating and, as the day wears on, drinking. You’ll find attractive and friendly tapas bars on most corners
Go there
Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) flies to Girona from Dublin and Shannon, but the airport is a good 90 minutes from the city by bus. Aer Lingus (www.aerlingus.com) flies to Barcelona, just over an hour from Girona by train, from Dublin, Cork and Belfast.