HIDDEN GEMS: IT'S A ROCKY road to Jodhpur, a thorough examination of both the bus's suspension and my constitution.
Bone shuddering and teeth chattering all the way, I think the bus fared better than I. It's difficult to convey just how impressive Jodhpur fort (Meherangarh) is (below). Rudyard Kipling described it as the work of giants and angels. Built on a 125m-high hill, its walls are up to 36m high and 21m wide and follow the contours of the hill. It looms menacingly and majestically, completely dominating the surrounding countryside. It once presided over the Rathore kingdom of Marwar (cheerfully known as the "land of death"), though now it sits on a healthy tourist trade. It's impressively run, with a decent audio tour included in the entry fee. This magnificent Fort is the most impressive one I've seen so far in India.
The road to Jaisalmer is much smoother, though it wasn't so much a bus we were travelling on as a human sardine transport. All seats were filled and there must have being around 30 people somehow standing in the aisles. Remarking to the driver that it's crazy to drive with so many people on board, he laughed and said: "It's India, everything crazy."
Jaisalmer, the "golden city", has a fort that looks like a giant sandcastle. Built on Trikula hill, about 25 per cent of the old city's population lives inside its walls. It's a fantastic experience to get lost in the lanes of this fort. Normal people live and work here so it has a lively atmosphere in comparison to other forts that are basically museums. It's in trouble, however. Overcrowding and tourism is putting huge pressure on the ancient drainage system, causing the fort to sink into the hill. Since 1993, three of its 99 bastions built in the 12th century have collapsed, though residents have recently begun restoration initiatives.
There are some great havelis (houses) here, especially the Nathmal-Ki- Haveli. The left and right wings were the work of two brothers and are similar but not identical, making for a huge game of spot the difference.