Civil conflict and the tsunami haven't eroded the Sri Lankan spirit. Just ignore the odd Manchester United shirt, writes James Helm
I HAVE ALWAYS been intrigued by Sri Lanka. A teardrop in the ocean beside its vast neighbour, India, for so long torn apart by a bitter civil war and hit hard by the tsunami of 2004. An island described to me as beautiful and beguiling, with stunning beaches, a warm welcome and a rich history.
My destination was Galle, in the southwest of the island. But my arrival in the capital, Colombo, was inauspicious, one of those why-did-I-come-all-this-way? moments. When we asked the driver to stop, so we could buy cold drinks, he turned into the car park of a fast-food chain. In walked a teenager wearing a Manchester United shirt.
But just when we thought we could be anywhere in this globalised world, we stepped out of the air conditioning and witnessed a Hindu procession, all sound and colour, and watched teenagers playing a noisy game of cricket on a scrap of ground.
Soon, very soon, I was enthralled by Sri Lanka.
The drive south from Colombo to Galle (pronounced "Gaul") took nearly four hours. We had been quickly enveloped by the sprawl of Colombo, with its vivid colours and street scenes, temples and traders, vehicles and people.
As the city ebbed away we got our first glimpse of shimmering blue ocean. Palm trees swayed, the sand dazzled and the pace slowed. Ornate Buddhist temples and bright little shops dominated, and we watched fishermen studying their catches on the beaches.
Shortly before Galle we got a reminder of the recent past. When the tsunami hit this stretch of coastline, in 2004, a train and its passengers were engulfed by the waters, and more than 1,200 people died. A memorial for the victims stands by the busy road.
Many of the small, one-storey homes around here were washed away. When people heard that I had travelled from Ireland, some expressed their gratitude that Irish aid had helped them in the tsunami's aftermath.
Some might find it hard to come for a holiday to a place that has suffered so much in recent times, and where you hear heart-rending personal stories. But tourism, like tea, is vital to the Sri Lankan economy. Those same local people want you here.
Civil strife has not helped Sri Lanka's image abroad, and a ceasefire between the Liberation Tigers of Tamil Eelam, or Tamil Tigers, and the Sri Lankan government forces officially ended earlier this year. Most of the violence has been in the north, where the Tamils are in the majority.
Sri Lanka, formerly Ceylon and independent since 1948, has seen the colonial powers come and go. Trading opportunities first brought Arabs and Malays, then came the Portuguese, the Dutch and the British.
On the south coast Galle provides the island's finest old colonial landscape. It was once a key stop on trade routes, and at its heart is the 17th-century Galle Fort. Centuries ago the stout ramparts of this fortification protected the trading interests of the Dutch. More recently, they saved the fort and its residents from the tsunami's devastation. Much of the centre of modern Galle was less fortunate.
Twenty years ago the fort, with its narrow grid of streets beneath the high walls, was declared a World Heritage site. The architecture along the dusty lanes, which are packed with heat and humidity, hawkers and snake charmers, reflects the fort's colonial history. The Dutch Reformed Church and All Saints Church stand close to each other, bearing some of the names of early Dutch and British settlers.
We stayed at a wonderful hotel, Amangalla, tucked inside the fort. Some of its fine white buildings date back to 1684. It later became the New Oriental Hotel, before its current owners took over a few years ago and updated it, while preserving its old colonial feel.
The entrance is in the shadow of mighty trees, and, once inside, the atmosphere is serene, cool and calm. The decor is understated and elegant, as is everything else about this place, from the uniforms of the smiling staff to the lovely swimming pool and its surrounds. I quickly got used to having my own helpful butler, and to the size of the magnificent bathrooms, the cool cotton sheets and the lack of a television.
Turn right from the entrance and you head towards the sea, the fort's ramparts and the shops and homes of the neighbourhood. Since 2007 the fort has hosted an annual international literary festival, which has welcomed writers from around the world: Gore Vidal, Alexander McCall Smith, Vikram Seth and Brian Keenan all came this year.
Turn left from the hotel and just through the fort's main gate is one of the world's most incredible sporting venues. Sri Lankans love cricket, and Galle's ground hosts international matches. The walls of the fort overlook what was once a British racecourse, and these days crowds gather on them to get a grandstand view of proceedings, without having to pay for a ticket.
The tsunami completely destroyed it. A journalist friend who arrived soon afterwards remembers seeing an upturned double-decker bus in the middle of the pitch. The work to rebuild it culminated in a match between Sri Lanka and England last December, and the stadium stands as a symbol of the determination to rebuild and recover.
The beaches nearby are postcard-perfect, sandy crescents fringed by palm trees. I watched local fishermen as they sat on tall vertical poles pushed into the sand. The men hang off the poles, holding a line and sometimes a spear, waiting for a catch. There are worse places to hang around.
The sunsets here are jaw-dropping. On the last night, at Wijaya Beach, you could almost hear the plop and sizzle as the sun dropped into the ocean and the sky turned a glorious pink.
The best-known beach is at Unawatuna, about five kilometres from the centre of Galle. My favourite, though, was Wijaya, just a few minutes further down the coast by tuk-tuk, the three-wheeled vehicles that are the best and cheapest way of getting around. We looked for a safe stretch of ocean - the currents can be strong - and took the plunge. It was like stepping into a warm bath.
I always enjoy the perspective provided by two wheels, so we jumped on mountain bikes to see some of the countryside inland. It was beautiful: panoramas of lush vegetation, gentle hills and paddies dotted with workers and the occasional water buffalo.
Children waved to us, and the rice harvesters stopped and smiled as we pedalled slowly by. Our guides took us through tiny rural hamlets, past temples and through fields and woods. On one much-needed water stop we watched monkeys playing in the branches of a tree above us.
A short drive inland is Samakanda, an ecotourism centre in the verdant countryside. It used to be a tea estate. It is now a place for visitors to see biodiversity at first hand, on terraces of coffee, cocoa, cinnamon and cloves. The slopes are covered in a dozen shades of green, and there are lovely walks through the trees.
Samakanda's 1920s planter's bungalow has been restored with a modern touch, and can be hired. The traditional curry and rice, eaten beneath a thatched roof, was in the Sri Lankan style - dry and fiery. The hilltop breeze helped to cool us down.
Close by, and also worth a visit, are low-lying tea plantations, some of the crop that this island is famous for. The best tea is usually exported, but, as a four-cups-a-day man, I still found the local brew wonderfully refreshing. Afternoon tea back at the hotel, with scones, cream and jam to accompany my cuppa, was a rare treat.
I was intrigued by Sri Lanka. The region I visited was fascinating, with high-quality places to stay and eat, at reasonable prices. The beaches were as good as any I have seen, but there is a lot more besides, and I left enough for a return visit. Despite its troubles and its tragedies, the culture, colour and heritage of Sri Lanka all blend to make it a small gem in the Indian Ocean.
Sri Lankan essentials
Where to stay
• Prices are surprisingly reasonable, and Sri
Lanka has earned a reputation as a destination for luxury weddings
and honeymoons.
• I stayed at the excellent Amangalla, 10 Church
Street, in the Galle Fort. Rooms cost from $250 per night until
September.
www.amanresorts.com.
• Around Galle are lots of beautiful properties that
have been turned into luxurious places to stay or dine. The Dutch
House is one of the finest, gazing down on Galle from a hill. It
has four suites.
www.thedutchhouse.com.
Its sister property, the Sun House, a boutique hotel, is right next
door.
www.thesunhouse.com.
• Another renowned and spectacular place to stay, or to
enjoy a drink on the terrace at sundown, is the Lighthouse Hotel,
on the edge of Galle.
www.jetwinghotels.com.
Food and shopping
• The standard of food in all of the above
places was high, with Sri Lankan choices, more western options and
reasonable prices. Rice and curry is the staple Sri Lankan food,
and it can be pretty spicy, so ask for milder varieties if you are
nervous.
• If jewellery is your thing, then Sri Lanka offers
great choice at great prices, with gems such as sapphires mined
locally. Laksana, at 30 Hospital Street in the fort, is an approved
jewellery store that offers high quality, with no hassle to make a
purchase.
What to see
• The beaches at Wijaya and Unawatuna are
within easy reach of Galle. Unawatuna has its own range of places
to stay close by the beach.
• Around Galle, there are several Buddhist temples
worth visiting. (Buddhism is Sri Lanka's largest religion, although
there are also Hindu, Christian and Muslim communities.)
• Turtles can be seen at several beaches and in
wildlife centres.
• Samakanda, the biodiversity environmental project, is
at
www.samakanda.org.
• Kandy is a historic city in the central highlands. On
the way from Colombo is the Pinnawela Elephant Orphanage,
guaranteed to raise a cry of "aww". Colombo is a big city with its
own sights and plenty of high-quality hotels.
General tips
• The Sri Lankan tourist board has an office
in London, plus a website with lots of information and
advice.
www.srilankatourism.org.uk.
• Galle Literary Festival, a new addition, has
attracted well-known writers from around the world for talks,
readings, debates and relaxed dinners. The 2008 event was held in
January.
www.galleliteraryfestival.com.
• Sri Lanka is close to the equator, and the Galle
climate can be hot and humid. The best time to visit is probably
during the dry season, from November to April.
• For the latest advice on the security situation in
Sri Lanka, check the Department of Foreign Affairs website at
www.dfa.ie.
Go there
There are no direct flights from Ireland to Sri
Lanka. You can fly direct from the UK with Sri Lankan Airlines or
travel via the Middle East; Qatar Airways flies via Doha and
Emirates via Dubai, for example. Your hotel or tour operator will
arrange your transfer from Colombo's airport. Once in Galle, the
three-wheeled tuk-tuks are a cheap and cheerful way to cover short
distances. For longer distances book a car - and check it has seat
belts.