Go England: Forget the dour stereotypical images of northeast England: its beautiful landscape, picturesque villages and friendly people are among their country's best-kept secrets, writes James Helm
FOR SOME the words "northeast England" trigger dark mental images: thought bubbles filled with coal mines, slag heaps, terraced streets and little else. Even more enlightened types may picture only the Tyne Bridge, the Angel of the North sculpture and some well-known soccer players before they begin to struggle.
So what follows is an attempt to slay the lingering stereotypes. From the Tees, northwards across the Wear and the Tyne and beyond to the Scottish border, lies a region that can captivate, entertain and enthral. Within it lie the breathtaking glories of Northumberland, the UK's best-kept secret and my favourite city in the country.
Having lived and worked there, and with strong family ties to the northeast, my memories are very positive: beautiful beaches, pretty villages, wild hills, imposing castles, sites from Roman times and some of the friendliest people you could wish to meet.
Last summer, on a flight from Dublin to Durham Tees Valley Airport, I sat next to a retired couple from Cork. They were off to explore the northeast of England for a few days, something they'd always meant to do. After half an hour of listening to this stranger evangelise about his beloved region, setting out a proposed itinerary that would have taken months to complete, they probably wished they had kept quiet.
This whistle-stop version of my grand tour starts in the city of Durham before heading north. The former seat of the prince bishops who once ruled it as an independent kingdom, Durham is now home to a famous university. It is not an especially big place, but there is an extraordinary piece of ancient architecture on its streets: Durham Cathedral, which is, in my humble opinion, one of Europe's finest buildings. It was finished in 1133, and as a visitor two things always strike me: the way the cathedral has survived everything that the centuries have thrown at it and is in such perfect order; and the mystery and majesty of it. Its nave, it soaring columns, its combination of light, darkness and stone, the hush and the tales of events down the ages all add up to make it a special place.
A few kilometres north stands a very modern icon: Antony Gormley's Angel of the North. This year marks its 10th anniversary. When it was first erected some had their doubts about this rusty figure, with a 54m wingspan, gazing over the roaring traffic on the A1 from the site of a former mine. Since then it has become a familiar image of the region, a northern landmark. If you're driving past it, just be careful gawping at it.
It's early in our journey for a detour westwards, but Blanchland should not be missed. A tiny village with an abbey ruins, it's a lovely old place that is rich in history. Its film-set good looks owe much to Lord Crewe, who, back in 1721, decreed that the old buildings should be protected. The highlight of the village is the Lord Crewe Arms Hotel, on the square, with its big fireplaces, dark corners and ghost stories from centuries ago. The Crypt bar and the rooms above it date as far back as the 12th century.
To the east is Co Durham and former mining towns such as Consett. Farther still, by the mouth of the Wear, is Sunderland, once the world's shipbuilding centre. Now it is the focus of much Irish interest, as Niall Quinn and Roy Keane hold the reins of the soccer club.
That's one diversion for people wearing red-and-white striped shirts, but our next stop is home to Sunderland's greatest footballing rivals: Newcastle.
The city is worth a weekend and more all on its own. I cut my teeth as a reporter here on the Evening Chronicle and have a real fondness for the city and its people. Newcastle is a transformed place that, for me, has managed to blend old and new pretty well. It has retained its vibrancy and zest for life, while the warmth of its people shines through.
We're heading west now, away from the city and up the Tyne Valley towards an ancient landmark. Hadrian's Wall is a must-see, a real wonder, snaking its way across wild, bare moors and up steep hillsides.
Back in days of Roman Britain, Emperor Hadrian decided that a 120km wall from Solway Firth, in the west, to the Tyne, in the east, was required to keep the peace. Large chunks remain intact, the best sections being around Chollerford village and Haltwhistle town. Walk beside the wall and enjoy the views and the air while imagining the hardships of life as a Roman soldier.
From here we are going across the country. On the way towards Alnwick - pronounced ann-ick - the scenery is lovely, with small stone-built old settlements and places to stop and explore, such as Belsay Hall and Wallington House. You might see signs to the east for Ashington, where the Charlton brothers, Bobby and Jack, first laced their boots.
Inland lies wilder terrain, open country, and fine towns such as Wooler and Rothbury. With the sea air in our nostrils, however, we are heading to the coast. Northumberland's coastline is magnificent, with long, golden stretches of sand and fishing villages dotted along it, as well as some of the best castles and ancient sites you could wish for.
One of them is Alnwick Castle, a few kilometres inland. The Duke of Northumberland's pad has been in the family since 1309. You might recognise it as Hogwarts in the Harry Potter movies. Beside it, and also well worth a few hours of your trip, is Alnwick Garden. This new addition is full of great original ideas, such as a vast treehouse, a poison garden and amazing water displays.
Head next for the fishing village of Alnmouth, on a spit of land jutting into the water, and little Warkworth, a good place to stop for tea and cake. Northwards lies the village of Craster, famed for its kippers and the medieval ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle.
Finally, and the end point for this journey, is Holy Island. Leave a good few hours for this and - be warned - make sure to check the tides first. Exactly why will become obvious as soon as you see the route out to the island. The causeway across the sands, which has been used by pilgrims for more than 1,000 years, is tidal. Once safely across you'll find ancient Christian heritage at Lindisfarne Priory. There is an isolated air to this little island despite the tourist presence. Lindisfarne Castle is close to the village, and there are great views back to Bamburgh and the rest of the coastline. From here you can return south, perhaps down the road to Newcastle, or north to Berwick-upon-Tweed and the Scottish border. Brush the sand off your shoes and take home some Craster kippers or a bottle of Newcastle Brown Ale. Whatever you do, enjoy this secret corner of England, with its space, its scenery, its people, its past and its impressive present.
• www.visitnortheastengland.com; www.visitnewcastlegateshead.com
Where to stay and where to go
Where to stay
• Thistleyhaugh. Longhorsley, Morpeth, Northumberland, 00-44- 1665-570629, www.thistley haugh.co.uk. A lovely farmhouse BB near Alnwick. Great food and a warm family welcome.
• The Ship Inn. Newton Square, Low Newton by the Sea, Northumberland, 00-44-1665-576262, www.shipinnnewton.co.uk. A delightful spot.
• Lord Crewe Arms. Blanchland, Co Durham, 00- 44-1434-675251, www.lord crewehotel.com. Surrounded by moorland and woods, this building dates back 600 years.
Where to go
• Alnwick Castle. Alnwick, Northumberland, 00-44-1665- 510777, www.alnwickcastle. com. It includes Knights School, where little Sir Galahads can dress up and learn swordsmanship.
• Alnwick Garden. Denwick Lane, Alnwick, Northumberland, 00-44-1665-511350, www.alnwickgarden.com. Also has a fine restaurant, the Alnwick Garden Treehouse.
• Baltic Centre for Contemporary Art, Gateshead Quays, South Shore Road, Gateshead, 00-44-191-4781810, www.balticmill.com. Visiting exhibitions.
• Hadrian's Wall. See www.hadrians-wall.org.
Go there:Aer Lingus (www.aerlingus. com) flies from Dublin to Newcastle. Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) flies from Dublin to Durham Tees Valley and from Dublin and Shannon to Newcastle. Aer Arann (www.aerarran.com) flies from Galway to Newcastle. Jet2.com flies from Cork to Newcastle.