Lillehammer is a great destination for more than just on-piste action, writes Leonie Corcoran
CHOOSING A ski destination isn't easy, especially if you are dealing with a group. But how about combining a few days on the slopes with a stay in an ice hotel, an elk safari and a day trip to Oslo?
Norway has a snow record that is the envy of many European resorts, as well as boasting a range of attractions for those who want more than ski, ski, ski on their annual trip.
Lillehammer, home to the 1994 winter Olympics, is one of Norway's oldest skiing resorts. It is an easy 90-minute transfer by train from Oslo, making it a good option for weekend trips or family groups. During the transfer you can sit back and enjoy some of the scenery Norway is famous for: endless frozen lakes and forested mountains. (For views of the fjords you will have to travel farther afield.)
Hafjell, made famous by the Olympics, is among the top three Norwegian alpine ski resorts. The centre is serviced by regular bus departures from Lillehammer, 15km away. Fourteen lifts and a gondola bring skiers and snowboarders into the mountains, with the longest descent cutting a seven-kilometre trail down the mountain. Slopes in Hafjell are westfacing and sheltered and have good quality snow throughout the season. When lower slopes get frosty, take the gondola to Mosertoppen, at 781m, which gives a vertical drop of 586m. An intermediate station at 478m is ideal for less-experienced skiers.
Call into the Pavillion restaurant at the top of the gondola for great views of the valley and some energy food before you tackle the descent. Try to avoid the lunchtime rush, however.
Hafjell is best suited to beginners and intermediates. For those with more confidence in their ability, there are five black runs and plenty of opportunity for off-piste skiing. Cross-country skiing is also a very popular Norwegian pursuit, born perhaps out of necessity before the times of four-wheel drives. Norwegians claim that cross-country skiing comes as naturally to them as walking, and if you mention it to anyone in the town, they will tell you their favourite areas. Nordseter is usually one of the first Lillehammer-based resorts to open its ski trails every season. It has terrain suitable for both experts and less experienced skiers, depending on weather conditions.
Back down in Hafjell, there are a number of hotels and cabins close to the slopes. These are especially suitable for families - and mean no bus transfers in the morning. Check out the location of your chalet, however, as some are a steep climb from the town's shops and bars.
If you need a more active apres-ski scene, choose lodgings back in Lillehammer. With the town still living on the tail end of the 1994 wave, there are plenty of bars and restaurants to choose from.
Check out one of Norway's biggest nightclubs, Brenneriet, and the rooftop bar at the Molla hotel, which gives great views of the town.
Located only 12km from Lillehammer, and visible from the slopes in Hafjell, Hunderfossen Winter Park adds a new dimension to a ski holiday. In the centre of the park, the 40-person Ice Hotel is a new addition to its attractions. From the outside the hotel looks like a mound of snow, but then a double door covered in reindeer hides hints that there is something beyond.
From the arched reception area, into the bar (which is also open to non-residents) and on to the rooms, everything you touch is made of ice. Most rooms are for three or more people, but doubles are available.
All have striking art displays built into the ice and are lit up with soft coloured lighting. Around a corner, a wedding in the Ice Cathedral can be arranged.
The Olympic park has more off-piste activities, with everything from bobsleighing, ice-skating, dogsleighing, horse-drawn sleigh rides and more.
Norway does not have the established apres-ski atmosphere of some of Austria's resorts, possibly thanks to its extremely high alcohol prices, but for those looking for a weekend ski trip, the area is ideal.
Where to stay, eat and go
Where to stay
SAS Radisson Hotel. Turisthotelveien 6, 00-47-612-86000, www.lillehammerhotel.no. This traditional hotel offers comfortable accommodation with views of the Olympic ski jump. It is located an uphill stroll from the centre of Lillehammer. The ski bus stops just outside its gates.
Alpine Apartments. Aaslettvegen 25, 00-47-612-850, www.hafjellresort.com. This apartment complex offers doorstep skiing in Hafjell and great views of the valley and Hunderfossen Winter Park. Ideal for groups.
Where to eat
Bryggerikjelleren (Elvegata 19, 00-47-61270660), located in an old brewery, is a popular eating spot in Lillehammer. Its low ceilings and brick walls give a warm and cosy feel - just what you need after a day on the slopes. Add Lillehammer's best steak dishes, and a variety of wines from its bodega, and you have something for all the family. Bookings are advised.
Next door, the Brenneriet (Elvegata 19, 00-47-612-70660) is one of the town's newest restaurant additions. An established nightclub attached to the Bryggerikjelleren, it now offers an exciting menu and is worth checking out before a night on the town.
Where to go
The Olympic Park (Hakons Hall, 00-47-610-54200, www.olympiaparken.no) will get the adrenaline pumping without skis. You can also check out the bob and luge track. The icebob seats three passengers and has a maximum speed of 120km/h. For a slightly slower lap, a rubber bobsleigh, a bobraft, seats five passengers and can get up to speeds of 80km/h.
The Hunderfossen Family Park. Faberg, 00-47-612-75530, www.hunderfossen.no. A high ropes course lets you exercise your arms when your legs are too tired to take to the slopes. An ideal group activity. Also check out the fairy-tale themed restaurant and giant trolls.
Attempt to become the "mountain king" by facing Lillehammer's ski jumping arena (located in the Olympic Park). A chairlift starting at the landing area will bring you to the ski-jumping tower at the top of the largest hill. The open-air terrace offers great views and is a popular photography stop if you can't face the jump.
For a twilight experience, try an elk safari (Sjusjoen Hoyfjellshotell, 00-47-623-47670, www.sjusjoen-hotel.no). As the snow arrives, elks venture out to feeding spots. Twilight excursions are available.
Go there
Leonie Corcoran was a guest of Topflight (www.topflight.ie, 01-2401784).