The spectacular Three Gorges stretch of the Yangtze river can now be explored from the comfort of a cruise ship, writes ANNA HEALY FENTON
IN 2003 TOURISTS rushed to China’s mighty Yangtze river, convinced it was their last chance to see the spectacular Three Gorges before the area was flooded for the world’s largest hydroelectric scheme.
The vast, €19 billion Three Gorges Dam, at Yichang, in Hubei province, has been under construction since 1994, and now this modern Great Wall of China is almost complete. It’s almost two and a half kilometres wide, required 73 foothills to be flattened and took as much concrete as 100 Empire State Buildings to construct. A staggering 1.3 million people whose homes and orange groves lined the river’s banks had to be relocated to make way for the rising waters.
By November last year the final 30m of additional flooding was added to the reservoir above the dam, raising water levels upstream to 175m above sea level. This increased the previously shallow river to a depth of 40m in many places. As a consequence the cliffs of the Three Gorges on either side are half-submerged, but they are still hauntingly beautiful, with the views of misty peaks along the Qutang, Wu and Xiling Gorges as impressive as ever.
Inevitably, Yangtze tourism dropped off after the frenetic burst of construction in 2003. Now visitors are flocking back, and Sanctuary Cruising’s launch of Yangzi Explorer offers a great opportunity to enjoy a five-star cruise along the river. Yangzi Explorer is a 62-cabin luxury ship whose 675km trip offers breathtakingly scenery.
The cruise begins at Chongqing, gliding downstream for three days through the Three Gorges and the dam locks at Yichang. Alternatively, guests can choose the upstream route, boarding at Yichang for a four-day trip to Chongqing.
If you just feel like lazing on board and enjoying the ship’s amenities, you’ll have a wonderfully relaxing break. If you want to be a bit more adventurous, you can take side trips, which include a visit to a resettlement town high in the hills above the river, at the “ghost city” of Fengdu. Although this is a propaganda-fest, it’s still fascinating to hear locals candidly describe their experiences of being forced to leave their family homes to make way for the rising waters.
Another excursion is a ferry trip up Shennong Stream, a tributary of the Yangtze – although “stream” is a bit misleading, as it’s wider than the River Shannon. Visitors transfer to san pans – long, thin boats, each rowed by six muscular men who then haul their craft up the rapids with ropes.
This is the highlight of the trip, and much more spectacular than standing atop the dam itself (also part of the cruise) gazing at a concrete cliff. The ship passes right through the dam, via a series of enormous locks.
Accommodation on Yangzi Explorer is impressive by any standards. The cabins come in a range of grades, from the roomy Deluxe cabin to the semi-D-sized Imperial and Celestial suites. Cabin amenities include hanging space, desk, armchair and flatscreen TV. For those concerned about security, the top suites each have a private entrance with dedicated butler. High-speed internet access became available in January, when the ship was fitted with satellite broadband.
In spite of being small compared with an ocean-going liner, the ship glides smoothly through the water, so there should be no danger of seasickness.
On board you’ll find everything you’d expect of a classy resort except the swimming pool, which means passengers can be as active or idle as they like. There are lectures about the history of Three Gorges Dam, arts and crafts demonstrations, lessons in dumpling making and even lessons in the board game mah-jong.
The facilities are extensive, with a theatre and a spa with six massage rooms, a sauna, a steam room and a rainforest shower. You can add the finishing touches at the hair and beauty salon or work out in the gym, catch up in the business centre or read in the library.
The air-conditioned lounge bar doubles as an indoor observation deck; it leads out to the viewing decks, complete with sunloungers. If you still have energy after the banquets and a-la-carte spreads, there’s plenty to do. Children might not find the attractions of Yangzi Explorer as gripping as adults, but the side trips appeal to all ages. Its main appeal lies in its ambition to re-create a forgotten age of travel, where luxury and style can be enjoyed undisturbed against an ever-changing backdrop of spectacular views.
General manager Detlef Schneider, formerly of the Hilton, Hyatt and Shangri-La chains, took a personal hand in training the enthusiastic young crew. He emphasises his commitment to outstanding service. “We don’t have the word ‘no’ here. Everything is possible,” he says. He hopes guests will see the potential to make their trip unique. “We can do individual itineraries and menus and personalised side trips for one, couples or groups.”
The Yangtze cruise can link into a two-week China tour or be a refreshingly different side trip if you are visiting Hong Kong, Beijing or Shanghai. It’s well worth the effort to get there.
** Yangzi Explorer sails from March to November. Rates from $1,200 (about €900) per person sharing a Deluxe cabin in shoulder season to $4,450 (about €3,350) per person sharing the Celestial or Imperial suites, meals and drinks included, in high season. Call 00-852- 31795900, see www.sanctuary-cruising.com or contact your travel agent
That darned dam
Many ecologists view Three Gorges Dam project as an environmental disaster, resulting in increased pollution from more river traffic and huge riverbank cement works, which use the silty sand stacking up behind the dam. It’s goodbye to the Yangtze’s unique river dolphins and several species of fish, they say.
Ironically, the dam was partly justified as helping to solve China’s enormous energy needs, with promises that it would provide 12 per cent of the country’s requirements, with clean power to boot. But last year it met only 2 per cent of that need.
The Chinese have long dreamed of conquering the Yangtze, which floods catastrophically every 10 years with enormous loss of life, and now the dream has come true. But though many applaud the colossal engineering feat, doubts remain about the weight of silt mounting up behind the dam, which is much greater than was predicted.
Go there
Several airlines, including KLM, Qantas, Air France, Swiss, British Airways, Lufthansa, Virgin and Cathay Pacific, fly from Dublin to Hong Kong with one stop. Hong Kong to Chongqing is a two-hour flight with Dragonair. Air China flies from Dublin to Shenzhen (one stop). KLM, Air France, British Airways, Virgin, Turkish Airlines and Air China fly to Beijing (one stop). Virgin flies from Dublin to Shanghai (one stop). There are flights to Yichang from Shenzhen, Beijing and Shanghai.