Go Edinburgh: Edinburgh, the setting for next week's Heineken Cup rugby final, is the ideal location for what promises to be a sensational game, writes Malachy Logan
FOR A CITY that prides itself on hosting a huge range of annual festivals, you would imagine that Edinburgh would be satisfied with its lot. Apparently not. Showcasing the best in arts and culture has almost become too passe and city officials obviously feel they need another challenge. Well, they think they have found it in sport, and rugby in particular.
When Murrayfield was announced as the venue for this year’s Heineken Cup final, all the usual buttons were pushed to drive home the message that the city would weave its spell over the hordes of visiting supporters and deliver an occasion to be remembered. That remains to be seen but it would be a brave man who would bet against the city winning over a new range of admirers when it hosts the showpiece of European rugby on May 23rd.
The Scottish capital is an ideal location for a sporting occasion on the scale of a Heineken Cup final. It has the feel of a big city yet retains the intimacy of a smaller town, allowing supporters to enjoy an atmosphere that big metropolises such as London or Paris cannot deliver. Visiting supporters – some of whom will be familiar with the city from Six Nations weekends – will be smitten by the usual tourist attractions and probably vow to return again for a more cultural visit. But that’s for another time.
For now, the seductive appeal of Edinburgh and its rich history will only go so far in satisfying rugby supporters on a one- or two-night package. Once the mandatory open-top-bus tour has been completed and a visit to the castle enjoyed, supporters will probably revert to type and seek out the best pubs and restaurants. The diet will be food, drink and rugby.
Indulging all three requirements in Edinburgh will not prove difficult. The range of pubs and restaurants is as diverse as in any big city, with most of the best-known hostelries concentrated around the Royal Mile and the George Street/Queen Street area. Drink prices are on a par with Ireland when the sterling differential is factored in.
These areas will be heaving with supporters on the Heineken Cup weekend and it might be worth wandering off the beaten track a little to gain a small bit of comfort. The Haymarket area might be more of a trek for supporters but they won’t be disappointed by the variety of eating and drinking establishments. Elbow room will be at a premium but you are more likely to find it here than right in the city centre.
At the moment, the Edinburgh streets will have a familiar feel for visitors who experienced Dublin during the construction period for the Luas. A new light-rail system is being laid in the city (it is due to start running in 2011) and the resultant upheaval is no worse or better then the Dublin experience. But there are some diversions so motorists should get the latest traffic information rather than relying on guides and maps that might be out of date.
Part of the wonderful experience generated in cities on days of big matches is the proximity of the stadium to the city centre. Visitors to Dublin regularly remark on how the walk to Croke Park or Lansdowne Road is a huge part of the occasion and adds significantly to the anticipation and excitement of the day.
For Croke Park or Lansdowne Road, read Murrayfield. The walk from the city centre is probably a little longer (four kilometres from Edinburgh Castle) but the route shares the same variety of potential pit stops where pre-match banter and post-match analysis can be enjoyed to the full.
Although Murrayfield was only renovated in 1995, making it Scotland’s biggest stadium with a capacity of 67,500, it has a somewhat dated feel. Since then, state-of-the-art arenas, such as the Stade de France in Paris and the Millennium Stadium in Cardiff, have come on stream, while Croke Park has thrown open its doors and Twickenham has been completed. All of these developments have left Murrayfield looking a little threadbare, perhaps a metaphor for Scottish rugby itself.
What it lacks in modern facilities, however, will be of little concern to the average visiting supporter, who will be only too happy to discover that he or she can buy a drink in the ground itself. Unlike soccer in Scotland, Murrayfield is granted a special licence to sell alcohol at big games although it’s still a surprise to find bottles on sale. Glass and big sporting occasions should be avoided, no matter what the game and how trouble-free a reputation the sport of rugby enjoys.
These reservations aside, the stadium is a fitting venue for a major final. Sightlines are perfect from almost every seat, although the installation of a 100-metre track in front of the main stand is still a curiosity that nobody in Scottish rugby seems able to adequately explain.
Irish supporters will only be concerned with this month’s Heineken Cup showdown but Murrayfield will also host the final leg of the Emirates Airline Sevens the week after the European decider. These events are all part of the Homecoming Scotland 2009 celebrations to mark the 250th anniversary of the birth of national poet and cultural icon Robert Burns.
Scotland has invested hugely in the anniversary and has organised a myriad of events to mark the occasion. Everything from whisky to the biggest clan gathering ever planned are on the calendar so if you travel to Edinburgh without a match ticket at least you can know that the festivities are not confined to rugby. An exciting city in party mode – exactly what the Heineken Cup final deserves and what Burns would have wanted.
Go there: Flights to Edinburgh with Aer Lingus and Ryanair have shot up in price. Expect to pay from €350-400 return. Ryanair has a fare of €199 return to Glasgow Prestwick, about two hours from Edinburgh. Accommodation is also like gold dust in Edinburgh. Park benches will begin to look enticing.
The good news is that some travel agents have tickets for the game and are selling them for one-, two- and three-day packages with hotel accommodation.
Killester Travel has one-day packages from €299, overnight from €395pps and two nights from €505-625pps, tickets extra. www.killestertravel.com, 01-8336935.
Sadlier Travel and Malahide Travel have one day trips from €329 and €429 including tickets. 01-8061753, www.istsports.ie. Day trips are also available from €299 with 747 Travel, www.747travel.ie and 01-4780099.
By ferry, there are services from Dublin and Dún Laoghaire to Holyhead and Liverpool. Heading north for a shorter drive, there are services from Larne to Cairnryan and Troon and from Belfast to Stranraer. Prices are from €284 to €430 for a car and four passengers return. www.irishferries.com, www.stenaline.com, and www.poirishsea.com
Where to stay, eat, drink and shop close to the Royal Mile
Where to stay
Hotel Du Vin
. 11 Bristo Place, 00-44-131-2474900, www.hotelduvin.com. Double rooms from £125 per night. A new addition to the Hotel du Vin family of luxury boutique hotels, Hotel du Vin Edinburgh is nestled deep in Edinburgh’s Old Town and only a short walk from the historic Royal Mile. The hotel’s 47 beautifully furnished rooms and suites are complemented by a reasonably priced bistro.
The Scotsman
. 20 North Bridge, 00-44-131-5565565, www.theetoncollection.com/scotsman. Double rooms from £114 per night. The Scotsman five-star boutique hotel is housed within the magnificent Scotsman Newspaper building. While the newspaper has long since moved out, the building’s restoration retained the stunning wood panelled reception room, which is now a bar and brasserie that serves the Edinburgh elite. The newspaper held its giant printing presses in the lower ground floor. When the presses began to turn, the entire building was said to vibrate. The press room now houses an equally thumping state-of-the- art gym. This has been voted one of the top hotels in the world by both Condé Nast Traveller and Departures magazine.
George Hotel
. 21 George Street 00-44-131-2251251, www.principal-hayley.com. Double rooms from £79 per night. 2007 saw the £12m refurbishment of Edinburgh’s George Hotel. Now the construction of a brand new £5m extension on Thistle Street allows patrons a spectacular view of the city and its famous castle from the fifth-floor terrace.
The Rutland
. 1-3 Rutland Street, 00-44-131-2293402, www.therutlandhotel.com. Double rooms from £125 per night. Opened in 2008, this boutique hotel is located in the heart of the West End and is home to an electronic interactive bar and iPod booths.
Smart City Hostels
. 50 Blackfriars Street, 00-44-800-8405500, www.smartcityhostels.com. Ten- and 12-bed dorms from £9 per night, private twin rooms from £39.95 per night. Finding a quality hostel in Edinburgh is now a cheap option for all. Whether you are a backpacker, budget traveller, family of four, on a break with friends, or just looking for accommodation right in the city centre, then smart city hostels is a good option. Ranging from 12-bed dorms to private twin bedrooms, this hostel offers value for money.
Where to eat
Hawke + Hunter
. 12 Picardy Place, 00-44-131-5570952, www.hawkeandhunter.co.uk.Meal for two from £50. Co-owned by Scotland international rugby player Simon Taylor, Hawke + Hunter is a hip restaurant and bar situated in a five-storey Georgian townhouse. The venue has a restaurant, stylish late-night bar, billiard room, whisky room, a secret garden and four boutique bedrooms.
Harvey Nichols Forth Floor Restaurant
. 30-34 St Andrew Square, 00-44-131-5248350, www.harveynichols.com. Meal for two from £55. Worth the money for the view alone. Lunch and dinner are served in the Forth Floor Restaurant, Brasserie and Bar, with spectacular views over Edinburgh.
Skippers Bistro
. 1a Dock Place, 00-44-131-5541018, www.skippers.co.uk. Meal for two from £50. Skippers of Leith is pleasantly situated in the Dock area of Leith and has an appealing rustic charm and ambience. The staff are attentive and professional. The food is predominantly fish as you would expect from such an establishment and the shellfish is highly recommended.
The Kitchin
. 78 Commercial Quay, Leith, 00-44-131- 5551755, www.thekitchin.com. Relaxed and stylish, despite its Michelin star.
Zanzero
. 15 North West Circus Place, 00-44-131- 2200333, www.zanzero.com. A cheerful Italian diner that carries the reputation of its owners, the renowned Contini family.
Murrayfield Bar
. 57-59 Roseburn Terrace, 00-44-131- 3371574, www.murrayfield bar.com. Warm and friendly Murrayfield Bar is the haunt of rugby fans who can’t get a ticket. Serves pub food for under £10 and beer costs from £3 per bottle.
Shopping
Appreciate Princes Street for the view of the castle, but the best shops are on George Street.