Steer clear of the major cities if you want to embrace Chinese culture in a cheaper, more relaxed way, writes NORMA COSTELLO
FOR MOST PEOPLE a trip to China is a whirlwind tour of its megacities. Beijing’s bird’s-nest stadium, Shanghai’s Pudong commercial hub and Hong Kong’s magnificent skyline have all become symbols of the new China. But rushing to embrace this modernity can be like throwing the baby out with the bathwater.
During the Han dynasty China emerged as a trading power, and with this came the establishment of the great Silk Road, attracting traders from as far away as Rome. This heralded a period of migration that would lay the foundations for what we now know as China.
During this time southern provinces were brought under Chinese influence, including Yunnan and Sichuan, which were corridors into southeast Asia. Today these regions are overlooked by legions of visitors to China every year.
The country is a mesh of cultures and traditions. It is easy to lose sight of this in its capital and other major cities, but there are ways to embrace Chinese culture that are cheaper, more relaxed and – an imperative for China – less crowded.
My first trip to Yunnan remains one of my most awe- inspiring experiences. Having flown into Hong Kong the day before, I had jumped on the first available flight to this remote western province. I knew from the moment I stepped on the aircraft that this would be a journey like no other. Perched between two Yi women who were dressed in full tribal regalia and speaking a language I had never heard, I settled into what would be a great adventure.
Thankfully, my elementary Chinese saw me through my arrival in Kunming, Yunnan’s pretty capital and the only great city in the province. My taxi driver was mildly amused, and after a brief argument about his “broken” meter we set off into the city.
Kunming is known as Spring City. It has a mild climate that, after Beijing and Hong Kong, was a welcome surprise.
Kunming is an ideal place to begin your Yunnan experience. It has all the comforts of a modern city, but, unlike its megacity counterparts, it’s bubbling with character.
My first stop was Green Lake Park. This wonderful piece of old China is best experienced at night, when older residents come out to sing and dance until the small hours.
Traditional music is played throughout the park, and locals love to watch foreigners attempt traditional dances. Just as I was attracting a legion of adoring fans, it was time for the park to close.
The next day I hightailed it to Stone Forest. This geological phenomenon is not to be missed. Giant karst formations spring from the ground, giving the place an other-worldly feel. Make sure to go early, to avoid the barrage of Chinese tourists bustling through on follow-the-flag tours.
The next day my hotel booked me on the early bus to Dali, which takes four hours and passes through some of Yunnan’s most striking scenery. These journeys in themselves are portals into a world untouched by the new China’s mass industrialisation.
Farmers wave from paddy fields, and pit stops bring with them inquisitive locals. One elderly Bai woman asked if I had a disease; she had never seen freckles before.
Hilarity ensued when I tried to explain that a lot of Irish people have them. “A lot of people in your country have this disease,” she said as she quickly moved away.
Dali is the point where you really start to experience minority culture. The Bai are the main ethnic group in the region; there is also a scattering of Yi and Dai people.
The old town is relaxed and has plenty of accommodation – a standard room will set you back less than €3.
There is something very arty about the city. It attracts young musicians and artists from a variety of countries, giving the town a vibrant nightlife. I recommend trying some Bai cuisine and sampling Yunnan’s hard-to-beat coffee.
A good day trip from Dali involves a cable-car climb of 4,500m – not for the faint-hearted – and a meander around Songshan, or Green Mountain.
Anyone who likes to party into the night has infinite choices, from traditional Bai music to Chinese hip hop and German metal.
All this in a town that looks like the set of an Indiana Jones movie.
The old town of Lijiang, four hours away by bus, is a Unesco World Heritage site. The main minority group in the area are the matriarchal Naxis, who parade around the town in their colourful dress.
No trip to Yunnan is complete without a visit to the old Tibetan town of Zhongdian, which has been renamed Shangri-La by the government. At 3,200m above sea level, Zhongdian gives you a taste of Himalayan life. It has a mix of ethnic peoples but with a Tibetan flavour.
Yunnan is a real cultural hub whose beauty lies both in its spectacular landscape and in its fascinating people. It is a must for travellers who seek adventure and crave culture.
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