With its preserved architecture, beautiful beaches and one of the highest quality-of-life ratings in France, La Rochelle is the perfect place to unwind while still ticking the cultural boxes, writes EITHNE SHORTALL
CITY BREAKS tend to be about doing as much as possible, and the relaxing element of the holiday gets forgotten as soon as the maps are produced. But with its preserved architecture, beautiful beaches and one of the highest quality-of-life ratings in France, La Rochelle is the perfect place to unwind while still ticking the cultural boxes.
This Atlantic resort started out as a fishing village. It developed into one of France’s vital coastal towns and is now the most picturesque historical port in the country.
Smart decisions by former mayors mean its 17th-century architecture is still intact – and acts as a huge draw for tourists during the summer months. As well as being scenic, the town is a manageable size, with the old port as its focal point, making it easy to navigate and enjoyable to explore.
Start your slow-paced wander at the two defence towers guarding the entrance to the port. Tour Saint Nicolas, on the south side of the port, is the most tourist-friendly. It is open all year, and audio guides are available.
The other historical tower worth visiting is Tour de la Lanterne, just a few minutes’ walk from Saint Nicholas. Located at the most seaward point along the port, this former lighthouse and prison is an integral part of La Rochelle’s history. It was from the top of this tower that priests were thrown into the sea during the 16th-century religious wars.
Go beyond the port and into the winding, largely pedestrianised streets and you can’t help but be charmed by the old- fashioned facades and 400-year old archways.
The arcaded walkways line the majority of roads and make sheltering from the rain or midday sun a delight. Rue du Palais, Rue du Temple and Rue des Merciers – which are in close proximity to each other – are particularly attractive.
La Rochelle also offers long coastal stretches and several beaches. Plage de la Concurrence is the most popular and the nearest to the port. Plage des Minimes is a little farther out of town but is a smaller, less crowded alternative. Four nearby islands help to shelter the town, making the sea breeze less severe than at other points along the Atlantic coast.
The most accessible island from La Rochelle is Île de Ré, joined to the mainland by the longest bridge in France. Île de Ré is extremely beautiful, with a full circumference of unspoilt sandy beaches and a laid-back attitude. The terrain is flat, making it ideal for cycling around and not too tiring for children or those who haven’t mounted a bike in a while.
Bike hire is easy to find on the island, or they can be taken from La Rochelle on the public buses. These leave from Place de Verdun and stop at Saint Martin, the island’s capital. Check the timetable, though, as the last bus tends to leave Île de Ré at 6pm and, depending on the season, may not run on Sundays. Saint Martin is also a good place to enjoy a long, lazy lunch.
The relaxed approach to life in La Rochelle and the surrounding area is not just a result of its large tourist numbers. The town is famed all over France for the emphasis it puts on “quality of life” and its conscientious approach to the environment and local issues.
While the free bike-hire system introduced in Paris two years ago has been hailed as a huge success, it was La Rochelle that introduced the country's first such system, in 1971. Four hundred vélos jaunes– or yellow bikes – are now for hire in the town. In 1970 La Rochelle became the first town to sign a legal document safeguarding the local architecture, and in 1986 it introduced the first car-free day.
Mealtimes are particularly lengthy here, and Sunday mornings particularly quiet. There are venues for those looking to party into the night, mainly around the port and down the smaller side streets, but the general ambiance of La Rochelle makes it more suited to young families or those looking to unwind.
Culture vultures may find La Rochelle’s range of museums disappointing. The choice of historical museums is limited, and the fine-art collection is lacking in recognisable names. Young families will, however, be interested in the impressive aquarium. Situated near Port des Minimes marina, it houses more than 10,000 animals and a particularly impressive shark tank. The museum of Protestant history is another niche choice, displaying historical documents, portraits and a collection of artifacts relating to Calvinism.
La Rochelle has a throbbing tourism industry during the summer, largely due to Irish and British visitors, and so finding accommodation can be a struggle during the Francophone music festival at the beginning of July. But if you do manage to acquire a bed, this is one of the most enjoyable times to visit. Finding a bed any other time of the year is not usually a problem. The town is awash with live performances, spontaneous shows, patriotic singalongs and some of France’s lower-profile celebrities.
5 places to stay
Hôtel St Jean d’Acre. 4 Place de la Chaîne. 00-33-5-46417333. hotel-la-rochelle.com. A family-friendly hotel in a central location. Double rooms from €76, family rooms from €129.
Hôtel de la Monnaie. 3 Rue de la Monnaie, 00-33-5-46506565. hotel-monnaie.com. Each room in this three-star hotel comes equipped with a flat-screen TV and minibar. Centrally located, it offers doubles for €120.
Hôtel de Bordeaux. 43 Rue Saint-Nicolas. 00-33-5-46506565. hotel-bordeaux-fr.com. In the heart of the old fishing quarter, and close to Tour Saint Nicolas, this hotel is popular with tourists. Double rooms from €55.
HI Hostel La Rochelle. Avenue des Minimes, 00-33-5-46444311, hihostels.com. Clean, comfortable hostel near the town centre. Small dorm rooms from €18 per person.
Camping Municipal le Soleil. Avenue Michel Crépeau, Les Minimes,. 00-33-5-46444253. Camping is a popular form of accommodation in La Rochelle, with most campsites of a high quality. This site is in walking distance of the beach and the town. Opens at the end of June with tent pitches for €9.
5 places to eat
Relais Chateaux. Plage de la Concurrence, 00-33-5-46414819, coutanceaularochelle.com. The most glamourous – and expensive – restaurant in La Rochelle, this eatery is immured by a park of pine trees. Offers French cuisine and seafood. Mains from €40.
La Maison des Mouette. 1 Rue des Claires, 00-33-5-46346600, lamaisondesmouettes.fr. A more expensive choice, but, for those looking to splash out, the magnificent sea view makes this a great choice. Set menus about €65.
Le Bistrot de Rémi Massé. 59 Rue St Jean du Pérot, 00-33-5-46435608, bistrot-remi-masse.com. A long-time hit on Île de Ré, Rémi Massé can now be enjoyed in La Rochelle, just minutes from the port. The staff are very welcoming, and a meal on the terrace is a divine experience. Set menus from €14 to €36.
Le Bout en Train. 7 Rue Bonnes Femmes, 00-33-5-46417374. This traditional French restaurant offers authentic cuisine at reasonable prices. Popular with locals; booking is advised. Main courses from €15 to €30.
The port is lined with seafood restaurants, offering very reasonably priced mussels as well as more expensive fresh fish. The quality is generally good, but it is worth having a look around.
5 places to go
Aquarium La Rochelle. Quai Luis Prunier, 00-33-5-46340000, aquarium-larochelle.com. The perfect place to spend a rainy day, or even a sunny one, if you are travelling with children. The two-floor aquarium will keep you amused for hours. Adult entry costs €13; children get in for €10.
Café de la Paix. 54 Rue Chaudrier, 00-33-5-46413979. Just off Place de Verdun, this magnificent cafe has high ceilings, beautiful wood panelling and ornate wall designs. Drinks are well priced, and there is no danger of the waiters hurrying you out.
Île de Ré. This picturesque island is just a half-hour drive from La Rochelle, whether you are coming by car or the local bus system. As laid back as La Rochelle is, life on Île de Ré is even slower. The Rébus leaves from Place de Verdun for Saint Martin every 60 to 90 minutes.
The La Rochelle markets in the town centre. Food stalls are set up every Wednesday and Saturday morning, with tourists and locals partaking in tastings and purchasing local produce.
Tour Saint Nicolas. Vieux port, Rue de l’Armide, 00-33-546-417413. The biggest of La Rochelle’s three defence towers, it was built in the 14th century and has undergone extensive restorations several times since then. Open all year. Admission is free for those under 26 and €6 for everyone else.
Hot spot
Not renowned for its nightlife, La Rochelle has limited hot spots. Some of the best night-time entertainment is the free street performances along the port. But if you’re looking for a club, head for El Mojito (2 Rue des Canards. 00-33-5-46301584). This Cuban bar is slightly gritty but lives up to its name, serving a delicious cocktail.
Shop spot
La Rochelle offers an excellent selection of small chain stores and one-off boutiques. Almost every street has shopping potential, with the higher-end options on Rue du Palais. Saint Martin, the capital of the nearby Île de Ré island, also has a wide range of boutiques.
Go there
Ryanair (ryanair.com) flies from Dublin to Nantes, a two-hour drive from La Rochelle. Aer Arann (aerarann.com) flies from Cork to La Rochelle during the summer. Irish Ferries (irishferries.com) sails from Rosslare and Brittany Ferries (brittanyferries.ie) sails from Cork to Roscoff, a five-hour drive from La Rochelle.