Dirty, dangerous and rude or vibrant and unspoilt with pizza to die for? Whatever your opinion of Naples, you certainly won't be bored, writes ADRIENNE CULLEN
NAPLES TENDS to provoke extreme reactions. Critics say it’s dirty, dangerous and rude, and they’re right. Enthusiasts say it’s unspoilt and quintessentially Italian, with food to die for, and they’re absolutely right as well. It’s all a question of priorities.
So if you're planning a break with small children in tow, you may need to give some extra weight to the crazy traffic and blaring car horns, the graffiti, the pickpockets and the infamous scooter-borne scippatori, or bag-snatching thieves – not to mention the continuing rubbish problem, which prompted disgruntled householders to riot back in 2007.
On the other hand, if you’re not easily put off by the occasional bad experience, and see the attraction in visiting a vibrant city with more to it than a sanitised trail of packed tourist attractions, then perhaps Naples is, after all, the place for you. You may be annoyed, you may be pleasantly surprised, but you certainly won’t be bored.
" Vedi Napoli e poi muori!" – See Naples and die – the Italians will tell you, suggesting that once you've been here you'll have nothing left to live for. That may have been true when it was the heart of the Kingdom of Naples, from 1282 to 1816, but, like it or loathe it, it's a slight overstatement today.
The guidebooks will go on to place Naples as the largest city in southern Italy – aka the Mezzogiorno. It’s also the capital of Campania, with volcanic Mount Vesuvius to the east and the sweeping Bay of Naples, with the pretty islands of Capri, Ischia and Procida, to the south. They may even talk about the malign influence of the local Mafia-like crime syndicate, the Camorra.
But, in my opinion, what you really need to know about is pizza. It originated here with the Greeks, was developed by the Romans and was adopted by the Italians in the 18th century as a Neapolitan pie with tomato. Cheese was added in 1889, when toppings of red tomatoes, green basil and white mozzarella were combined as a culinary tribute to Queen Margherita, consort to King Umberto I.
Like everyone else, you’ll inevitably join the competition to find the city’s best pizzeria. By general acclaim, the leader is Da Michele, on Via Cesare Sersale, which is so traditional that it serves only the classic pizza marinara and pizza Margherita. My own favourite is Di Matteo, on Via dei Tribunali, where you’ll wait for your table but be glad that you did.
In physical terms, the heart of Naples is the compact old city, the Centro Storico, a Unesco World Heritage site full of palaces, churches, catacombs and hidden piazzas. You’ll find it broadly between Piazza Garibaldi, next to the railway station, and Piazza del Plebiscito, a popular spot for outdoor concerts.
Here, look out for the Cathedral of Naples, dedicated to San Gennaro, aka St Januarius, the city’s patron. A vial of his blood is brought out twice a year – on the first Saturday in May and on September 19th – and gradually liquefies. According to legend, if it fails to liquefy, something bad will happen to Naples, but it’s doing okay so far.
Piazza del Plebiscito is dominated by the Royal Palace, with its red facade, colonnades and series of eight niches containing statues of the city’s rulers since the twelfth century. The sumptuous royal apartments and throne room are open to the public and well worth a visit.
Piazza del Plebiscito leads neatly on to Via Toledo, the city’s main shopping street, and it’s here that you’ll find the magnificent 19th-century Galleria Umberto, reputedly the world’s first shopping mall – a relic of the days when shopping was shopping and malls had epic glass domes.
Conveniently across the road is Teatro San Carlo, the oldest opera house in Europe, still going strong, and a must for a night out. Dating back to 1737, it’s regarded by Italians as second only to hallowed La Scala, in Milan – though don’t say so out loud in the company of Neapolitans.
Where to stay, where to eat and where to go in Naples:
5 places to stay
Grand Hotel Santa Lucia.
46 Via Partenope, 00-39-081-7640666, santalucia.it. If you’re looking for a hotel with panoramic views over the Bay of Naples, look no further than this stylish four star. Built in 1900, with a distinct art-nouveau flavour, it has terraces and rooms with views over the bay, Vesuvius, and the island of Capri. Doubles start from about €150 a night.
Hotel Palazzo Alabardieri.
38 Via Alabardieri, 00-39-081-415278, palazzoalabardieri.it. Located a few hundred metres from Piazza del Plebiscito, the Royal Palace, the San Carlo Opera House and the main shopping streets, this comfortable four star has double rooms starting at about €150 a night.
Hotel Caravaggio.
157 Piazza Cardinale Sisto Riario Sforza, 00-39-081-2110066, caravaggiohotel.it. A quiet, modern, pleasant 18-room hotel, well located near Naples Cathedral and the National Archaeological Museum. A double room costs about €130 a night.
Hotel del Real Orto Botanico.
192 Via Foria, 00-39-081-4421528, hotelrealortobotanico.it. The Orto Botanico are the botanic gardens, and, yes, they are right next door to this atmospheric 36-room four star, which has a fine rooftop garden as well. There’s an internet rate of €102 for a double room, and €122 for a family room.
Il Convento.
137a Via Speranzella, 00-39-081-400332, hotelilconvento.com. This respectable three star was a convent back in the 16th century. Today its main selling point is that it’s great value just 100m from the main shopping street, Via Toledo. Doubles cost from €80 to €180, with family rooms from €110 to €180.
5 places to eat
La Cantinella.
42 Via Cuma, 00-39-081-7648684, lacantinella.it. A Michelin star, a view of the Bay of Naples and fantastic food: what more could you want? With the aim of appealing to every pocket, La Cantinella, run by Giorgio Rosolino, also has a private dining club and a pizzeria next door.
L’Antica Pizzeria Da Michele.
1-3 Via Cesare Sersale, 00-39-081-5539204, damichele.net. Arguably the best pizzeria in Naples, this establishment, which has been a family business since 1870, is now run by the fifth generation of master pizza makers. It has been on the current site since 1906.
Pizzeria Di Matteo.
94 Via dei Tribunali, 00-39-081-455262, pizzeriadimatteo.it. Everyone has their favourite pizzeria, and this is mine. Don’t be put off by the fact that it’s where US president Bill Clinton was taken during the G7 summit in Naples in 1993, or by the fact that you’ll probably have to wait for a table. It’s worth it.
Ristorante La Scialuppa.
5 Piazzetta Marinari, 00-39-081-7645333, lascialuppa.it. Located right on the bay, in the shadow of the 12th-century Castel dell'Ovo, here's a beautiful little fish restaurant to balance all that pizza. Justly famous locally for its linguine alla Scialuppa.
Ristorante Vineria Vadinchenia.
21 Via Pontano, 00-39-081-660265, vadinchenia.it. Fine dining Italian style, with a fabulous array of antipasti, pasta, meat and fish dishes. Also known for its excellent selection of Italian wines.
5 places to go
National Archaeological Museum.
19 Piazza Museo Nazionale, 00-39-081-4422149, napolibeniculturali.it. Reputedly one of the most important archaeological museums in the world – unsurprisingly, perhaps, given its proximity to Pompeii and Herculaneum. It houses mosaics, statuary and bronze and glass vessels taken from both sites.
Royal Palace (Palazzo Reale).
Piazza del Plebiscito, 00-39-081-5808111, palazzorealenapoli.it. One of four residences used by the Bourbon kings of Naples between 1730 and 1860. Its magnificent throne room and royal apartments are open to the public. The palace today houses a number of city offices, including the regional tourist board.
Napoli Sotterranea.
52 Vico S Anna di Palazzo, 00-39-081-400256, lanapolisotterranea.it. You’ve guessed it: Naples Underground. Dating back to Roman times, Naples has a fascinating series of underground tunnels, passageways, stairways, former waterways and hidden rooms right under the city centre. Many of them were used by local people to hide during the bombing of the second World War.
National Gallery of Capodimonte.1 Via Miano, 00-39-081-7499151, capodimontegallery.com. Here you'll find a world-class collection of paintings and tapestries from the 13th to the 18th centuries, including works by Michelangelo, Titian, Botticelli and Raphael. Set aside an entire day . . . and more.
Il Pio Monte della Misericordia.253 Via dei Tribunali, 00-39-081-446944, piomontedellamisericordia.it. The headquarters of a 17th-century charitable foundation, this is one you'll rarely find in the guidebooks. But there, above the altar, is Caravaggio's The Seven Works of Mercy, painted in 1607 when he was on the run from a murder charge in Rome. The best view is from the upstairs room overlooking the chapel.
Hot spot
Miami Bar Room.
68c Via Morghen, 00-39-081-2298332, miamibarroom.it. Definitely
the most chilled corner of Naples, Miami Bar Room is known locally for its music – everything from lounge to Brazil beat to jazz – its cocktails and its beautiful people, though not necessarily in that order.
Shop spot
The main shopping street is Via Toledo (formerly Via Roma and still known as such by many locals). It has all the international department store chains and much more. But for real glamour you need Galleria Umberto, on the same street, with its wonderful neoclassical architecture, magnificent glass dome and chic boutiques.
Coffee break
Caffè Gambrinus. 1 Via Chiaia (Piazza Trieste e Trento), 00-39-081-417582, caffegambrinus.com. This beautiful stone building with the name engraved over the door is a Naples landmark. Mussolini and Oscar Wilde were fans. Depending on the time of day, have a caffè lungo, a caffè ristrettoor a caffè macchiato.
A good night out
Teatro San Carlo. 98d Via San Carlo, 00-39-081-7972331, teatrosancarlo.it. If you’re an opera buff, you’ll want to visit this, the oldest continuously functioning opera house in Europe, second only to La Scala, in Milan. And even if you’re not, it’s a glamorous night out, in glorious surroundings – and quintessentially Italian.
Get in the mood
Make your own pizza, starting with the classic marinara, with tomatoes, garlic, oregano and olive oil – strictly nothing more. Pizza Margherita has tomatoes, garlic, olive oil, basil and mozzarella – green, white and red, like the Italian flag.
More information
Naples websites are not great. The municipal site, comune.napoli.it, is better than the main alternatives, napoli.com and napolia.it. However, tourism offices in the city have the excellent Qui Napolibrochure, which has a good map and an English guide to the main sights.
Naples hot spots
Grand Hotel Santa Lucia
Hotel Palazzo Alabardieri
Hotel Caravaggio
Hotel del Real Orto Botanico
Il Convento
Miami Bar Room
La Cantinella
L’Antica Pizzeria Da Michele
Pizzeria Di Matteo
Ristorante La Scialuppa
Ristorante Vineria Vadinchenia
Via Toledo
National Archaeological Museum
Royal Palace
Napoli Sotterranea
National Gallery of Capodimonte
Il Pio Monte della Misericordia
Go There:Aer lingus (aerlingus.com) flies to Naples from Dublin.