FRANKFURT:It may be dominated by the European Central Bank HQ, but there's more to this German city than number-crunching civil servants, writes
ADRIENNE CULLEN
OKAY, SO IT'S probably not the ideal time to sell a city on the basis that it's home to an international polyglot of bankers, but the good news is that there's much more to Frankfurt than the headquarters of the European Central Bank. Honestly.
Not that you'd know it at first. The ECB dominates the city both physically, in the shape of the Eurotower, which looms 40 storeys over the Bankenviertel, or financial district, and psychologically, to the extent that this city regards itself first and foremost as the financial capital of Europe.
Even when you ask about the future, what are you told? That the ECB plans to move to the east of the city once its Viennese architects can find contractors to build its new 185m-tall home, which, despite the downturn, will house twice the number of civil servants currently working in the Eurotower.
Don't hold your breath, though. The new HQ, to be called the Skytower, was put on hold in June 2008 because the ECB couldn't find anyone willing to build it for the measly budget of €500 million - a situation that's unlikely to change in the near future, unless the ECB knows something we don't.
With the ECB out of the way, did you know that Frankfurt is the birthplace of Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, author of Faust; that the Zeil is one of the most breathtaking shopping boulevards in Europe; or that Kleine Bockenheimer Strasse is known affectionately as Fressgass, or Glutton Lane, because of the large number of mouth-watering delicatessens?
The fact is that beneath a high-rise skyline that's more North American than European beats the heart of an extremely serious, ultraconservative, highly-traditional, comfortably well-off provincial German city where one of the most popular and colourful events of the year is the huge annual Christmas market, which runs until December 23rd.
Visitors are inevitably attracted first by the magnetic chic of the gently curving tree-lined and largely pedestrianised Zeil, which dates back to the city's commercial origins, in the 12th century, and stretches between two large plazas, Hauptwache, to the west, and Konstablerwache, to the east.
Have your credit card at the ready, because, even judged by the standards of Paris or London, this is a paradise of top fashion labels, designer shoes, cosmetics, jewellery and accessories, even before you nip around the corner on to Goethestrasse, which, I'm afraid, has a whole lot more of the same.
To avoid penury, head straight across the River Main to Sachsenhausen, much of which escaped the bombing of the second World War, and is an old-town warren of cobbled alleyways full of old-fashioned taverns selling the local speciality, apple wine - perfect as a post-shopping refreshment if you're saving on champagne.
Culture vultures are spoiled for choice, because along the Sachsenhausen bank of the Main are no fewer than 16 museums and art galleries, among them the Städel Museum, which has an impressive collection of French impressionists, including Renoir and Monet, and 16th-century German masters, including Dürer and Grünewald.
If you're in town on a Wednesday or a Saturday, head for the Bornheim district, which has a bustling farmers' market under the clock tower, and plenty of cafes and restaurants with outdoor terraces where hardy locals sup under blankets in deepest winter.
And if you're visiting with children, Frankfurt Zoo is a fine example of what a modern zoo should be, if they have to exist at all. It's home to 150 species protected under the European Endangered Species Programme; if crocodiles and lizards give you the creeps, head straight for the fantastic Big Cat Jungle instead.
There's plenty more to see, from the prosperous avenues of Westend to the tourist-infested red-light district around Central Station.
Wherever takes your fancy in "Bankfurt", the most dramatic way to see it is from the top of the 170m-high glass Main Tower. In a city of high-rise buildings - "Mainhattan" - it's the only one with a viewing platform and a rooftop restaurant.
5 places to stay
Steigenberger Frankfurter Hof. Am Kaiserplatz, 00-49-69- 21502, frankfurter-hof. steigenberger.de. This is a five-star hotel in the grand style - and a Frankfurt landmark. Angela Merkel stays here. There are deals with rooms at €114.50 per person per night, including breakfast.
Villa Kennedy. 70 Kennedyallee, 00-49-69-717120, villakennedy.com. More five-star pampering in this schloss-style hotel just off the south bank of the River Main. Doubles from about €305.
The Rolling Stones are previous guests.
The Westin Grand.
7 Konrad Adenauer Strasse, 00-49-69-29810, westin.com/frankfurt. Shop 'til you drop - and afterwards recuperate in the pool, sauna and spa at this 371-room hotel. Westin Escape deals offer rates of €199 per room per night, including breakfast and a newspaper.
Hotel Hessischer Hof.
40 Friedrich-Ebert-Anlage, 00-49-69-75400, hessischer-hof.de. A traditional German hotel where nothing is too much trouble. A double room costs from €200 a night.
Frankfurt Savoy Hotel.
42 Wiesenhüttenstrasse, 00-49-69-273960, savoyhotel.de. This is a 144-room family-run hotel with an indoor pool, sauna and fitness centre located in the heart of the city. Doubles start at €118 per room per night, including buffet breakfast.
5 places to eat
Zarges. 10 Kalbaecher Gasse, 00-49-69-299030, zarges.zweckgemaess.de. Awarded a Michelin star at the end of 2008, this pricey restaurant is worth every cent for a special occasion. Chef Hans-Peter Zarges presides.
Français. 33 Am Kaiserplatz, 00-49-69-215118, frankfurter-hof.steigenberger.de. Patrick Bittner is the young Michelin-starred chef at this establishment located in the Steigenberger Frankfurter Hof hotel. He's a protege of German celebrity chef Dieter Müller.
Silk. 21 Carl-Benz-Strasse, 00-49-69-900200, cocoon club.net. Set in the ultrachic Cocoon Club; the food is served as you recline on white leather daybeds. But don't be put off: chef Mario Lohninger trained with Guy Savoy in Paris and knows his stuff.
Holbein's. 1 Holbeinstrasse, 00-49-69-66056666, holbeins.de. This bright and airy restaurant, with its ultramodern cuisine, is located in the courtyard of the Stadel Museum. Try the grilled lobster in vanilla foam.
Erno's Bistro.
15 Liebigstrasse, 00-49-69-721997, ernosbistro.de. A firm favourite with Frankfurt foodies, this French bistro is cosy, with a good reputation and an interesting wine list.
5 places to go
Palmengarten.
61 Siesmayerstrasse, 00-49-6921236689, palmengarten.frankfurt.de. Even if you're not a dyed-in-the-wool gardener, you'll love the Palmengarten, with its fine array of restored historic greenhouses, a rose garden, a rock garden and the centrepiece palm house.
The Goethe Haus.
23 Grosser Hirschgraben, 00-49-69-138800, goethehaus-frankfurt.de. Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, one of Germany's most revered writers, was born here on August 28th, 1949. It's now a museum, with the great man's writing room on show.
Frankfurt Zoo.
16 Alfred-Brehm-Platz, 00-49-69-21233735, zoo-frankfurt.de. A fantastic collection of some of the world's most interesting animals, including 150 endangered species. An exciting day out for the kids.
Main Tower.
52-58 Neue Mainzer Strasse, 00-49-69-36504740, maintower.de. An aerial view is always the best way to see a city, and this is simply breathtaking. The tower is 170m high, made of glass, concrete and steel, with a viewing platform on top.
Liebieghaus.
71 Schaumainkai, 00-49-69-6500490, liebieghaus.de. The Liebieghaus houses one of the world's most important collections of sculpture from ancient Egypt, classical Greece and Rome, and Renaissance Europe. Don't miss it.
Shop spot
The tree-lined Zeil is the shopper's Mecca in Frankfurt, certainly on a par with Ku'damm, in Berlin. It has all the big international designer labels and more. The boutiques continue into Goethestrasse, and Kleine Bockenheimer Strasse is known for its luxury delicatessens.
Hot spot
The Cocoon Club.
21 Carl-Benz-Strasse, 00-49-69-900200, cocoonclub.net. The big attraction of this ultramodern club is that it's owned by one of Germany's best-known DJs, Sven Väth. Most sought after are the individual pods or cocoons for that little bit of privacy.
Coffee break
Eurodeli Frankfurt.
60-66 Neue Mainzer Strasse, 00-49-69-29801950, eurodeli.de. Located in the basement of the Eurotheum, a glass skyscraper on lease to the European Central Bank, this is coffee shop, bistro and cocktail bar to the banking community.
What to avoid
Concentrating your visit too much on the Bankenviertel, or financial district, which is just one little corner of the city. Like the bankers, you need to spread your wings a little.
A good night out
Tigerpalast Varieté Theater. 16-20 Heiligkreuzgasse, 00-49-69-9200220, tigerpalast.de. Germany loves cabaret, and the Tigerpalast, founded by Johnny Klinke and Margarita Dillinger, is Frankfurt's most famous. Acts include Italian acrobats, a Mexican juggler, an Indian puppeteer and a Ukrainian ballet dancer who performs to the songs of Edith Piaf.
Get in the mood
Curl up with a chilled bottle of Frankfurt apfelweinand the collected works of Goethe, published by Princeton University Press in 2006. On second thoughts, it's the collected works, so you'll need a case . . . at least.
Aer Lingus (aerlingus.com) flies from Dublin to Frankfurt-am-Main.
Ryanair (.ryanair.com) flies Frankfurt-Hahn from Dublin and Kerry. "The Bornheim district has a bustling farmers' market under the clock tower, and plenty of cafes and restaurants with outdoor terraces where hardy locals sup under blankets in deepest winter
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