Go Citybreak:The streets of Rome belong to tourists in August, as locals flee the heat. Frequent summer visitor Justin Comiskeyon how to make the most of it
WHEN IN ROME, do as the Romans do goes the saying. But when the natives exit the eternal city because of the 35-degree heat in August, visitors should ignore the old adage and stay.They’ll have the place to themselves and, perhaps the biggest plus of all, getting around the normally gridlocked city is far easier.
However, those planning some summertime Roma-therapy need to get a few basics right first and chief among these are the correct clothes – sandals, shorts and tank tops being the order of the day and plenty of sun block and insect repellent as the city’s omnipresent-pests-from-hell (mosquitos) can quickly turn your visit into an itchy nightmare.
Suitably prepared, the next question is where to start in a place of endless fascination. To get the best view in the city head for Il Vittoriano/Altare della Patria which overlooks the remains of ancient Rome’s imperial forums, the Colosseum, Capitoline Hill and Piazza Venezia. This enormous structure, 135 metres wide and rising to 80 metres, was designed along classical lines in 1885 and completed in 1935 – the horse upon which King Vittorio Emanuele II sits at its centre is so large 16 adults can fit in its belly.
Many Romans have little time for this colossus in white Brescia marble – referring to it as either the wedding cake, false teeth or typewriter – and this may explain why it had been largely underappreciated for so long.
But in 2007 it got a thorough clean, a military museum was inserted at its heart and an elevator was added allowing visitors to reach the roof. And when its doors open and the 360-degree views begin to sink in, it’s pure wow all the way. You can even have a bit of fun listening to the many ways people from all over the world say “wow” as their eyes take in one of the greatest man-made vistas on the planet.
Helpfully, the major historic buildings in this vista are identified in easy-to-follow maps from every vantage point atop the Vittoriano – and the list of historically significant sites and structures is so long you’ll almost start planning a return visit to Rome on the spot to make up for what you’ll inevitably won’t have time to see.
But, when you can take yourself from the views, the Vittoriano has a lot more to offer. Its stonework is magnificent, detailing intricate and grandeur built-to-last – in some respects it’s like a bit of ancient Rome built only yesterday.
Another great spot to get a view of the city is atop Monte Mario. At 138 metres it's the highest of the city's hills – although not one of the proverbial seven – and home to the Rome Observatory. From the viewing platform beside Lo Zodiaco café all of Rome is at your feet and you can get a feel for just how large its centro storico, or historic centre, really is.
I once spent a happy half-hour at Lo Zodiaco in the company of a student of Greek and Roman civilisation who, over café and cornetto, pointed out ancient features – aqueducts and the like – that were once key to sustaining a city which at its ancient height had a population of some 1.5 million, including an estimated 10,000 prostitutes and a thriving gay scene.
The area at the foot of Monte Mario, which includes the impressive Olympic Stadium, is another undervalued part of the city.
Now called Foro Italico, the recently spruced up plinth to “Dux” at its entrance beside the Tiber gives a clue to its origins. Finished in 1938 as Foro Mussolini, the complex was inspired by Rome’s imperial past and has been lauded as the pre-eminent piece of Italian fascist architecture.
It includes a beautiful swimming pool and the jarring Stadio dei Marmi, which is little more than a running track surrounded by 59 massive and oh-so-macho marble statues of athletes in various poses. Equally jarring are the mosaics in the walkway to the Olympic Stadium which depict scenes of war, “Dvce, the leader to us”, fascist eagles and “modern” workers. It’s a blast from an unnerving past but, in a strict architectural sense, not without merit.
A short walk away is historic Ponte Milvio. Legend has it that Constantine, prior to having it out with Maxentius in 312 AD to become emperor in the battle of Ponte Milvio, had a vision of the cross and the words " in hoc signo vinces" (with this as your standard you shall have victory). The following year the Edict of Milan was signed granting freedom of worship and official recognition to Christianity.
Maxentius was thrown into the Tiber from the Ponte Milvio and drowned. These days he’s been followed by the keys from thousands of padlocks as it’s fashionable for lovers to secure a lock (with suitable scribbled romantic message on it) to the bridge’s metal lights and throw the keys into the river.
This fad is so popular the city’s authorities have to regularly remove the thousands of locks before the bridge’s lights also join Maxentius and the keys in the Tiber.
Across nearby Piazzale Ponte Milvio is an authentic Roman restaurant, first opened in 1820, which comes highly recommended. Da Pallotta, where Signora Emma directs diners to their tables under a thick vine-covered outdoor seating area, is mostly busy with locals out for a pizza or stake cooked the proper way in a wood-burning oven. And, if the locals come in large numbers, rest assured that the fare is fantastic.
As I settled into a plate of Da Pallotta’s mixed grilled meat one July evening the heavens suddenly opened and, plates of food in hand, diners charged for cover. To hell with a wet jacket or soaked handbag, nothing could be worse than wasting dinner at Da Pallotta!
On the other side of the Tiber you can hop on a tram back to one of the city’s stand-out squares – Piazza del Popolo – or you could hail a cab to a more modern masterpiece nearby. Designed by top Italian architect Renzo Piano, Auditorium Parco della Musica – although inexcusably closed in August – consists of three beetle-like concert halls (one with a capacity of 2,800) which form the sides of an open-air theatre.
There is an impressive and reasonably priced musical programme to choose from (see auditorium.com), a nice bar/café and occasional artisan markets. When it comes to the city’s principal tourist traps – the Colosseum, St Peter’s and the Vatican Museums – early morning or the hottest period of the day (2pm to 4pm) are good times to visit during July and August. Other spectaculars, such as Piazza Navona, Trevi Fountain, the Spanish Steps and Piazza del Pantheon, are best left for the early evening when the city’s narrow streets provide an element of shade.
If the heat does get too much, however, you can always take a suburban train to Ostia about 30km away for a day on the beach – cool sea breezes take daytime temperatures there back to the more civilised late 20s. In winter Ostia’s a bit of a “seaside town that they forgot to pull down”, as Morrissey might say, but in summer it’s a fit-for-purpose family coastal resort with clean beaches, good seafood and lots of outdoor concerts.
Although the locals drive like wild animals – but claim Neapolitans are far worse – you could also get some relief from the heat by hiring a car and heading for the hills just south of Rome.
The Castelli Romani, at the feet of the Alban Hills, is a collection of pretty hillside towns and two almost impossibly beautiful lakes – Lago Albano and Lago di Nemi – both in volcanic craters. The prettiest of these towns, Ariccia and Genzano, are well worth a visit.
Top of the things-to-do list in the Castelli is securing some porchetta, the area’s famed whole roast pig speciality which takes up to 15 hours to cook, and is best washed down with a local white wine followed by fresh chambelline cookies.
If you want to get away from it all Lago di Nemi is a good bet. Situated in a bowl-like hollow, it’s approached via a steep, winding road which, when it reaches the lake, becomes little more than a part-paved, part-cobbled lane which has been washed away in places. Olive groves, vineyards and fruit trees occupy the area closest to the lakeshore. The only discernible tourist facility, AS Nemorensis Lacus Centro Canoa, has a few parasols, recliners and canoes for hire. Apart from some second World War military vehicles slowly rusting in its 35-metre deep waters, the lake is clean and great for a dip. Sprawled on a recliner after a swim here, all I could hear was the occasional plop of fish jumping for insects, the wind rustling the reeds and distant church bells from Nemi and Genzano high up on top of the crater. Hard to believe you’re only 30km from the centre of Rome and well worth a bit of sweat to get there.
Where to stay, where to eat and where to go
5 places to stay
Hotel Ponte Sisto, Via dei Pettinari, Trastevere, 00-39-06-6863100, hotelpontesisto.it. Four-star hotel in pretty period building in the heart of trendy Trastevere. Doubles from €190.
Kolbe Hotel, Via di San Teodoro, 00-39-06-6798866, kolbehotelrome.com. Four-star contemporary hotel near the imperial forums. Doubles from €190.
Papavista Relais, Via Tunisi, 00-39-06-64520553, papavistarelais.com. Close to the Vatican but only with six rooms, this is a cosy, convenient and comfortable hotel. Doubles from €110.
Hotel Domus Aventina, Via di santa Prisca, 00-39-06-65746135, hoteldomusaventina.com. Three-star hotel not far from the Circus Maximus and many other significant historical sites. Doubles from €76.50.
Hotel Giardino, Via XXIV Maggio, 00-39-06-794584, hotel-giardino-roma.com. Nothing too fancy but in a great location not far from the Trevi Fountain. Doubles from €90.
Five places to eat
Da Pallotta, Piazzale Ponte Milvio, 00-39-06-334245. Good all round restaurant with great outdoor seating area.
Dar Poeta, Vicolo del bologna, Trastevere, 00-39-06-5880516, darpoeta.com. Buzzy pizzeria down a laneway where they total the bill on the tablecloth. In city's now gentrified boho left bank.
Il Duca, Vicolo del cinque, Trastevere, 00-39-06-5817706. Good all-rounder. Cosy and comfortable with cute outdoor eating area in the back garden overlooked by the neighbours.
Il Pomodorino, Via Campania, 00-39-06-2011356, ilpomodorino.org. Decent family restaurant with good food at a reasonable price.
La Capricciosa, just off Via del Corso, 00-39-066878636. Traditional Italian cuisine in unfussy surrounds.
5 places to go
Il Vittoriano/Altare della Patria, Piazza Venezia. Magnificent monument along classical lines overlooking ancient Rome's imperial forums/colosseum, etc. Recently refurbished, its viewing platform has the best view in the city.
Foro Italico. Lauded as the pre-eminent piece of Italian fascist architecture, it's much more than just a passing curiosity from a troubled time.
Ponte Milvio. Pedestrian bridge and one of the oldest crossing points on the Tiber. Has a small museum. Fashionable spot for lovers to affix a padlock to its steel lamps and throw away the keys as a sign of their eternal love.
Auditorium Parco della Musica. Near Corso di Francia. Designed by Renzo Piano, music venue with three beetle-like concert halls (one with a capacity of 2,800) which form the sides of an open-air theatre. Reasonably priced musical programme (see auditorium.com), nice café and occasional artisan markets.
Trastevere. Formerly Rome's boho left bank, now largely gentrified. Relaxed atmosphere, great restaurants, cafes and pretty squares.
Hot spot
Ponte Sisto. Pedestrian bridge linking the old quarter of Trastevere with the area around Campo dei Fiori. Roma Estate has organised book stalls, jewellery stands, antique vendors, etc on both sides of the Tiber at this point.
Shopping
Via del Corso and the side streets off it. If you want a preview of what they'll be wearing in northern Europe next year, see it now in the shops and on the people of this most chic and style-conscious of streets.
Top tips
Bring clothes that let you sweat. Sandals, shorts and tank tops are ideal. Don't forget a water bottle which can be refilled at a fontanella (drinking water fountain) on the street – it'll save you a fortune in bottled water.
Go there
Aer Lingus (aerlingus.com) flies to Rome Fiumicino and Ryanair (ryanair.com) to Rome Ciampino. (Get a window seat on the right-hand side on a Ryanair flight and you’ve got a great chance of getting a grandstand view of the city as the flightpath to Ciampino is normally over the centre of Rome.) Fiumicino has a good rail link to the city centre; there’s a coach service to and from Ciampino.