Go Feedback: Parents shouldn't worry about their offspring going backpacking to Colombia, writes Conor Ó Briain
WHAT SPRINGS to mind when one thinks of Colombia? Cocaine, Farc, Pablo Escobar, violence. This is an understandable reaction. For much of the 20th century, Colombia was one of the most dangerous countries in the world. However, things have changed. Alvaro Uribe has been president since 2002 and under his stewardship the country is now safe and secure. It is winning its war against the drug cartels and guerilla groups such as the Farc. Due to the improved security situation, the country is now beginning to look outward once again. Colombia's tourist board is for the first time in many years advertising the country abroad as a suitable place to come and visit.
I decided last year that I wanted to go backpacking in South America for one year. My parents were supportive of my decision but on hearing that I wanted to visit Colombia, they were understandably nervous. Most people have negative impressions of Colombia. However, the reality is now different. In writing this article I hope that I alleviate concerns about visiting Colombia, for those of you planning on going backpacking there, or for those concerned parents wanting to make sure that their son or daughter will be safe. I spent three months travelling and living in Colombia last year and it is a truly fantastic country.
Colombia has so much to offer: the colonial splendour of Cartagena, most notably the huge perimeter wall around the Old City, built in the 17th century by the Spanish to keep out French and English pirates; countless beautiful beaches along the Caribbean coast line, especially those at the national park at Tayrona; the coffee-growing region Zona Cafeteria, near Bogota, where you can take a tour of one of the many huge coffee farms in the region; and last, but not least, the three major cities, Bogota, Cali and Medellín, offering good food, salsa and a dynamic nightlife equivalent to that of any European or north American city.
Many Irish twentysomethings are currently backpacking in South America. Brazil, Argentina, Bolivia and Peru are the most popular destinations but Colombia is the rising star. On the backpacking circuit, Colombia almost never gets a negative review. Colombians are fantastic, friendly people. I spent two of my three months in Colombia studying and learning Spanish at a university in the city of Medellín. I had a brilliant time there, met many decent, kind Colombians, and made a lot of good friends in the process.
Colombian people are remarkably warm and welcoming. The reason is simple - the country has hardly any history of mass tourism, and they are so very grateful that you have come to visit. The Colombians whom I met, and with whom I became friends, are very aware of the bad reputation that the country has abroad. They are determined to change that reputation and show off the new, safe Colombia to the rest of the world.
The perception of Colombia as a dangerous place to visit is similar to what Northern Ireland has faced for many years. Tourists are now choosing Northern Ireland and are happy with their safety. In the past they would not have dreamt of going north of the border. The future is also promising for Colombia. It just takes time for perceptions to change.
The news is not all good, of course. Colombia has its share of problems. There are many poor people in the countryside who feel left behind by their government and they continue to campaign for land reform and other forms of progress. The country does have a strong transport network but many people die on their roads each year.
Yet I would not be so strongly positive about Colombia if I did not have such a fantastic time there. The country is safe for backpackers to visit, especially in comparison with some other South American countries.
Having spent a lot of time in each of these countries, I would say that Colombia is far safer than Brazil, Ecuador or Peru and would be on a par with Argentina. In three months there, I heard of only two thefts, and both were in one particular hostel. I did not hear of any Colombians stealing from backpackers in all my time there. And I heard no reports of other, more serious problems, such as muggings or assaults. Places such as Salvador and Rio de Janeiro in Brazil are far more dangerous in comparison, although Brazil is generally considered relatively safe by those of us in the West.
In Colombia, when I asked for directions or assistance, the locals were always willing to take time to stop and help. There is none of the cynicism surrounding tourism that one finds in many places in Europe and even the more touristy parts of South America. Colombians have suffered under the weight of violence for so long that, now that the country is secure again, they are excited about the future. There is a big drive in most of the major cities for the children to learn English. The country's economy continues to grow and is well-placed to withstand the current global recession. And tourism is finally taking off.
Having spent three brilliant months in Colombia last year, I only hope that many more Irish backpackers will do the same. As the country reaps the rewards of its hard-earned victory over the guerillas, I predict that tourists will soon start arriving in their droves. The word is out - Colombia is the place to be. It truly is an untamed fantasyland, much like that described so evocatively in Gabriel García Márquez´s masterpiece One Hundred Years of Solitude. You should have no fears about visiting there, or indeed about your son or daughter visiting there. They will probably come home with the same happy memories that I now have.
Go tell us: Where have you been, and what good and bad travel experiences have you had? E-mail go@irishtimes.com