It's no surprise that the Gap of Dunloe is in every tourist brochure. You'll get an even better view of it by walking from Tomies to Purple Mountain, writes TONY DOHERTY
THE GAP OF DUNLOE, in Co Kerry, is a feature of most tourist brochures of Ireland. Its string of ribbon lakes overlooked by steep cliffs makes it an essential part of a visit to the southwest.
As spectacular as that trip is, however, it is nothing compared to the ridge walk along its eastern side from Tomies to Purple Mountain. Here you not only get a chance to see the gap from a new perspective but also get great views of Macgillicuddy’s Reeks to the west and the Lakes of Killarney to the east.
From the car park at Kate Kearney’s Cottage go back along the road for 400m until you come to a gate just beyond a new two-storey house. Just before the gate is a gap that you can walk through to the track that leads on to Tomies Mountain.
Keep to the track until you come to a clearing with a view over Lough Leane. Go right from here along a narrow track that runs up beside a deer fence. The track heads towards Tomies Rock before eventually petering out.
You have a choice here of heading up to the left on to the spur, which brings you to spot height 568m. I prefer to keep on towards Tomies Rock to get a view of Cousane Lake, from which the River Loe meanders away into the north Kerry plain. The sight of the car park full of cars and tourist buses adds to the pleasure of being above it all.
From here there is a steep but short climb on long heather to get to the ridge.
Once on top you have a view up towards the Head of the Gap. The great cliffs on either side are a reminder of the powerful erosive force of the glacier that cut through the range at this point. After the Ice Age the paternoster lakes, so called because they resemble the beads of a rosary, formed in hollows left by the ice.
From spot height 568m a clear path to the summit of Tomies (735m) is obvious. For the last 100m large scree covers the ground: take care if the rock is wet. Your panorama, which ranges from the formidable ridges of Macgillicuddy’s Reeks to the town of Killarney, makes this a good stopping point for lunch.
The ridge across to Purple Mountain is easy going, and there is fairly clear track. Once you get to spot height 757m turn southwest across the narrow ridge to the summit cairn (832m).
For your descent drop down to the little col below the summit, then turn left down the obvious path that leads to a grassy ramp which brings you to Glas Lough, from where you will have a wet and boggy descent to the Head of the Gap.
It’s a six kilometre walk back to the car park, a journey that will give you a chance to see the cliffs whose top you walked along – and in particular to marvel at the great purple screes of Old Red Sandstone that give Purple Mountain its name.
This route can be done in reverse, which some hillwalkers prefer. It depends whether you like to get the steep climb or the long road walk done first. Whichever way you go, you will end up at Kate Kearney’s Cottage, where there is a roaring fire and good food and drink for most of the year.
Tomies and Purple Mountain
Start and finish
The car park at Kate Kearney’s Cottage, at the northern end of the Gap of Dunloe.
How to get there
Take the N72 west from Killarney. The turn for the Gap of Dunloe is five kilometres west of the final roundabout on the Killarney bypass.
TimeSeven hours.
Distance15 km.
Total ascent850m.
MapOrdnance Survey Ireland Discovery Series sheet 78.
SuitabilityThis is a hard route. Compass, map and raingear are essential.
Food and accommodationKillarney.