The former royal retreat of Alghero in Sardinia is seeing lots of Irish visitors these days, writes MICHAEL PARSONS
ALGHERO IS ONE of many of the smaller Italian cities to benefit from the relentless expansion of Ryanair. The resort, on the northwest coast of Sardinia, is creeping up the chart of popular Mediterranean destinations thanks to Michael O’Leary, the “Il Duce” of Irish aviation.
Sardinia – about the size of Leinster – is the second largest island in the Mediterranean and a semi-autonomous region of Italy. The island became fashionable in the 1960s when the Aga Khan and other jet-setters “discovered” the Costa Smeralda (literally the Emerald Coast) which today is one of Europe’s most expensive and exclusive holiday destinations. Italian prime minister Silvio Berlusconi, who owns a villa in the area, is just one of many wealthy Italians who now spend the summer on Sardinia and the waters off Porto Cervo teem with the vulgar “super-yachts” of the global super-rich.
But Alghero, on the other side of the island, is a more low-key place. A very orderly queue boarding the flight at Dublin Airport contained a high quotient of passengers carrying The Irish Times and visible novels included tomes by Messrs Banville and Trevor. The flight time is about 2.5 hours and, from arrivals to the resort, is a convenient four miles.
There’s a plentiful choice of hotels and rental apartments close to the long sandy beach on the southside of the old mediaeval town but the best hotels are on the more peaceful rocky seafront, the Lungomare Valencia, a 10-minute stroll to the north. Among them is Hotel Carlos V which is popular with Irish guests and claims to be “five-star” but probably wouldn’t rate more than four from Fáilte Ireland. Nearby is Las Tronas Hotel Spa, built on a gated spectacular promontory, lapped by the sea and surrounded by semi-tropical gardens. The former villa was a summer retreat for the Italian royal family during the 1940s before their reign came to an ignominious end.
THE COASTLINE IS known as the Riviera del Corallo – the Coral Coast – with some good sandy stretches and pretty coves. Beaches are serviced and offer pay-per-day sun loungers and parasols. But the hotel pools are a more relaxing – if less entertaining – option. Italians “do” beaches like the Irish do race meetings. They feel at home, act exuberantly and look incredibly stylish at the seaside. We often look pasty, inappropriately-dressed and, frankly, ill-at-ease.
The old town, or centro storico, is a maze of narrow, cobbled squares dominated by mediaeval forts and churches. It’s not especially atmospheric but the pace is gentle and there are enough residents still in situ to mitigate the theme-park tendency so prevalent in most European heritage walled towns. The restaurants and shops are quite unremarkable.
Alghero is quite provincial so fans of Donatella, Dolce, Giorgio and the rest of the ghastly designer-label crew will be disappointed. The shopping is no better (or worse) than you’d find in, say, Cavan or Tralee. A number of shops sell traditional Sardinian wines and foods. But the only unique local product is jewellery made from red coral collected from the sea-bed. At least a dozen specialist outlets offer every permutation from bracelets and earrings to sumptuous, sculptural pendants.
Overall, Alghero somehow lacks the glamour of the Italian mainland. On the plus side, it’s easy to get to, feels safe, is relatively unspoilt and would suit families with young children, honeymooners, older travellers and anyone looking for peace and quiet. A week would be long enough for most visitors. Anyone planning a longer stay in Sardinia would probably want to explore more of the island.
As a result of the Ryanair connection, a number of Irish have bought holiday homes on the island. If you feel tempted, there are estate agents in Alghero advertising properties and services in English.
Where to...
STAYHotel Carlos V. Tel: 00-39-079-9720600 or gioricohotels.it. Peaceful location 10 minutes walk from the town centre. Go BB as the dinner menu, served in a cavernous dining room, is overpriced.
Hotel Villa Las Tronas. Tel: 00-39-079-981818 and hotelvillalastronas.it. Exclusive hotel in a private location virtually surrounded by sea that was a former royal retreat. Luxury spa and pool.
EATAragon, Via Gramsci. Tel: 00-39-079-9731001 or ristorantearagon.com. Always busy with locals and tourists alike. Wide choice of traditional Italian dishes and excellent pizzas. Strongly recommended.
Le Tre Torri, Largo San Francesco 6. Tel: 00-39-079-9735057. In a square at the edge of the old town with a healthy mix of locals and tourists. Good grilled fish and more exciting dishes.
Il Pavone, Piazza Sulis, 3. Tel: 00-39-079-979584 or ristoranteilpavone.com. Expensive restaurant specialising in fish with arrogant waiters.
GOOpen-top bus tour; a "choo-choo" mini-train; jaunts on a horse-drawn carriage around the old town; and boat trips from the port to visit the sea cave grottoes.
Ryanair (ryanair.com) flies from Dublin to Alghero