There's nothing better than a Sunday in Madrid. Head for a park where musicians play, families paddle boats and artists draw your portrait, writes Eithne Shortall
THE FIRST THING that hits you about Madrid is its sense of grandiosity. It was once the centre of an empire, and the architecture and parks still embody those centuries of dominance.
As the good weather will probably be the second thing you notice, a stroll down Calle de Alcalá, one of Madrid's main streets, can be just as educational as, and far more enjoyable than, a trip to the municipal museum.
The avenue is lined with imposing buildings that house banks, institutions and the national post office, aptly named the Communications Palace. The structures are topped with bronze coating and statues of brave soldiers.
At the end of the avenue sits Puerta de Alcalá, a ceremonial gateway best seen illuminated at night, and Parque del Retiro. Once the personal playground of the royal family, this 140- hectare (350-acre) public space is a must for any visitor to Madrid. With people playing music and strolling down paths named after former colonies, this is where the city's past and present meet in lavish style. There is no better place to be on a Sunday afternoon; musicians play in the bandstands, families paddle boats across the lake and artists draw portraits of anyone with a few euro.
Art and shopping are just a short walk from the park. The recently renovated Prado Museum, which has free admission in the evenings, is one of the world's greatest galleries. Nobody should return home without seeing Francisco Goya's Black Paintings and Diego Velazquez's masterpiece, Las Maninas. These works are usually engulfed by crowds, but if you are willing to pay then the afternoon is your best bet.
The Centro de Arte Reina Sofía is another fine gallery. It shows more contemporary works by, among others, Juan Miró, Salvador Dalí and Pablo Picasso, including his most controversial painting, Guernica.
Madrid is also a good place to find silk scarves, leather handbags and designer brands. Calle de Serrano, which runs along Parque del Retiro, is the perfect shopping street for those with money and a penchant for labels.
Younger and more budget-minded shoppers should head for Calle de Fuencarral. The city's squares host flea markets on Sunday mornings, with Plaza de Coscorro arguably the best place to find a bargain.
To really live like a Madrileño you need to visit some of the bars surrounding the markets. Locals cram themselves into taverns where they chat, drink beer and nibble tapas. If it's too early for alcohol, order a coffee or black tea; ask for milk and you're likely to get a tea bag floating in a pot of it.
Madrid is no friend to vegetarians. Cold meats are always on the menu, and vegetables can be an afterthought. With most bars hanging whole hams from the ceiling - the Ham Museum on Calle Atocha is among the most flamboyant - you are guaranteed some of the tastiest meat in the Mediterranean.
Ordering tapas - snack-size portions of different foods - is the best way to sample serrano ham, chorizo and squid, as well as olives, fried potatoes and Manchego, a sheep's cheese.
Spanish cuisine tastes best outdoors, accompanied by people-watching. Puerta del Sol is the heart of Madrid and home to dozens of bars, making it popular with tourists - and thieves. Plaza de Oriente is a safer option for a lazy afternoon. The nearby Royal Palace and the suited waiters will help you feel part of this imperial capital.
Where to sleep, eat, drink and visit in the Spanish capital
5 places to sleep
Cats Hostel. 6 Calle Cañizares,
00-34-91-3692807,
www.catshostel.com. Basic,
clean and centrally located. Offers private rooms and dorms. From
€15 for a bed in a 12-person dorm.
Hotel Miau. 26 Calle de Príncipe, 00-34-91-3697120,
www.hotelmiau.com. Located by Plaza Santa Ana, this is a good-value
choice for those looking to be in the hustle and bustle of the
city. Doubles from €115.
Gran Hotel Velazquez. 62 Calle de Velázquez,
00-34-91-5752800, www.hotelvelazquez.com. This family hotel is
located in the Salamanca district, just outside the city. Perfect
for those looking for local charm. Doubles from €70 to
€150.
Ritz Madrid. 5 Plaza de la Lealtad, 00-34-91-7016767,
www.ritz.es. One of the city's
best known and most highly regarded establishments. Rooms overlook
the Prado Museum. Doubles from €562 to €5,136. One
extra bed allowed at a cost of €95. One child under 11 can
share with parents free of charge.
Palacio del Retiro. 14 Alfonso XII, 00-34-90- 2292293,
www.ac-hotels.com. This former palace overlooks Parque del Retiro.
Guests are given the royal treatment - and the prices are fit for a
king, too. Doubles cost about €250.
5 places to eat
Casa Ciriaco, 84 Calle Mayor, 00-34-91-5595066. A
traditional Spanish restaurant where waiting is a valued
profession. Main courses about €13.
Toma, 14 Calle Conde Duque, 00-34-91-5474996. A popular New
York-style restaurant. Main courses about €18.
Las Cuevas de Luis Candelas, Cuchilleros 1 (edge of Plaza
Mayor), 00-34-91- 3665428,
www.lascuevasdeluiscandelas.com. A medieval- themed restaurant
where you are greeted with a musket. Main courses about €23.
Café de Oriente, 2 Plaza de Oriente, 00-34-91-5413974.
Opposite the Royal Palace. You get what you pay for. Main course
approx. €32.
Calle de la Cava Alta and Calle de la Cava Baja. Parallel
streets crammed with restaurants to suit all tastes and
budgets.
5 places to go
El Diario de Ana Frank: Un Canto a la Vida, or The
Diary of Anne Frank: A Song to Life. If you're Spanish is strong
enough you might like to see this much-talked-about show.
Calderón Theatre, 18 Calle Atocha,
www.teatrohaagen-dazs.es.
Luca Giordano in the Casón del Buen Retiro. Prado
Museum,
www.museodelprado.es.
After 10 years of restoration, this Prado Museum annex reopens,
revealing a ceiling frescoed by Giordano. Until May 4th.
Palacio Real. Calle Bailén, 00-34-91-4548800,
www.patrimonionacional.es/en/preal/preal.htm. Madrid's royal
palace and one of Europe's outstanding pieces of architecture.
Avoid the queues and go early in the morning.
Parque del Retiro. Calle de Alfonso XII. Spend a Sunday
eating ice cream and listening to music.
Atocha train station. Has an amazing cast-iron structure and
an internal palm garden. You can also visit the memorial to the 191
people who died in the 2004 train bombings.
Cool coffee break Café de Oriente. As well as being a
good place to eat, this is the perfect place to fritter away an
afternoon. With shaded tables outside, it's a good place to avoid
the midday heat without going indoors.
What to avoid
Plaza de la Puerta del Sol. Packed with tourists and
infamous for pickpockets, and you're unlikely to see too much of
"real Madrid". You'll find better, cheaper food elsewhere.
Hot spot
Kapital. 125 Calle Atocha.
www.grupo-kapital.com/kapital. This seven-floor nightclub,
which imposes a smart dress code, runs into the wee hours.
Hit the shops
Calle de José Ortega y Gasset and Calle de
Serrano are best for high-end fashion; Calle de Fuencarral is
popular with young, fashionable locals. Most shops close between
2pm and 5pm.
A good night out
Madrileños rarely spend the whole night at the
same bar. So spend your evening tasting beer and tapas on the
lively Calle de la Huertas. A visit to a Flamenco club, such as
Casa Patas, is a good way to spend the early hours. Top it all off
with a trip to Chocolateria San Ginés (Pasadizo de San Gines,
enter by 11 Arenal; 00-34-91- 3656546) where locals go for
end-of-night hot chocolate con churros, hot chocolate with
doughnuts fingers.
Get in the mood
Winter in Madridby CJ Sansom (Pan Books, £7.99 in UK)
is a must-read. A British spy visits post civil-war Madrid - and
the plot has enough twists and turns to make you excited about the
city and be glad it no longer lies in ruins.
Ryanair and Aer Lingus both fly into Barajas airport, Madrid. They compete on price, so it's worth checking both. Fares tend to start at €70 return.