For a demanding but rewarding walk, follow JOHN G O'DWYER's route through Tipperary
IRELAND’S UPLANDS display an amazing geological diversity. The limestone pavements of the Burren give way to the quartzite hills of Connemara, and then the complicated metamorphic rocks of Donegal melt into the newer Antrim basalts. Granite dominates our eastern hills before once again conceding to the ancient sandstones of the southwest.
And it is this change that gives a distinctly edgy feel to the east Munster uplands, for these are mountains in transition. Here the sharper outlines, higher cliffs and more immense combes of the Comeraghs and Galty Mountains begin replacing the rounded Leinster hills as a precursor to the raw, untamed peaks of the southwest.
So if your rambles have, to date, been confined to our capital province, you will find the Galty Mountains a refreshingly less frequented landscape and a foretaste of greater ruggedness farther west.
For a great day on our highest inland mountains, park at Clydagh Bridge (see panel). Then follow the minor road south into Glencushnabinna past another car park before climbing steps to a stile (left) and taking a path upwards. Initially the ascent toils through heathery fields before rising over mountainside to Cush, the first top of your circuit.
Marketing gurus generally hold that three factors determining demand are location, location and location. If so, this fine peak has somehow found commonality with most of Ireland’s airports: it’s simply in the wrong place to attract a lot of people. For if Cush were transported to the Slieve Bloom or Cooley Mountains it would instantly become a renowned five-star ridge, rising imperiously above the surrounding summits and acting as an irresistable honeypot for walkers.
Being a mere outlyer to the higher Galty peaks comes with the advantage, however, of remaining delightfully less visited. So, likely enjoying yourself alone, you proceed along the wonderfully airey Cush Ridge while reflecting, perhaps, on how our values are never objective but always relative.
Soon after you descend to a scenic col, from where the next ascent is a two-stage thigh-burner guaranteed to put further philosophical thoughts to flight. The effort proves worthwhile, however, when you sashay easily above the lofty basin of Boreen Lough before swinging right along the Galtybeg Ridge. And then comes your wow moment: enormous views open suddenly south to the Knockmealdown and Comeragh Mountains while north you gaze over pastoral Aherlow to the Slievenamuck and Slievefelim hills.
The short descent from Galtybeg leads to a col, made muddy by the growing popularity of the easier south route to Ireland’s only inland 3,000ft peak. From here the ascent of Galtymore may not rate as a true thigh-burner, but it is a conversation killer, and you will doubtless be glad to reach the flat-topped summit knowing the day’s hardest work is now behind.
Here your eyes will immediately be drawn to a white Celtic cross overlooking Aherlow, which was painstakingly erected by Tipperary man Ted Kavanagh in 1975. Its pristine condition is accounted for by local hillwalker and rescuer Jimmy Barry, who for the past decade has taken upon himself the task of painting this cross annually.
Leaving the cross in your slipstream, continue west along the summit plateau to a large cairn before descending towards an area of black bog where you pick up the Galty Wall. This impressive drystone structure, built in the late 19th century to divide two landholdings, still runs 3,500m along Galty Ridge. Follow this wall as it traverses delicately above Lough Curra, then part company with it when it swings sharply left.
Your route continues roughly north, on a broad spur descending towards Glencushnabinna. Aim for a marker post on a raised knoll below and to your right, from where a line of poles leads to a stile entering Drumleagh Wood. Once in woodland just follow the meandering arrows for about two kilometres through sylvan surroundings as they lead you pleasantly back to your starting place.
Glencushnabinna, Co Tipperary
Getting thereFrom Lisvernane village, in Aherlow, go east along the R663 towards Bansha. After a kilometre turn right and then go left at a T-junction. A short distance beyond is Clydagh Bridge, and soon after the finger sign for Galtymore points right. After about 300m park at the forest entrance on the right.
SuitabilityBe in no doubt that this is a challenging walk requiring good fitness and reaching considerable altitude. Be fully kitted with spare clothing and raingear. Carry a map and compass and be aware that around Galtymore summit walkers become lost in mist with monotonous regularity.
MapOrdnance Survey Ireland Discovery Series sheet 74.
TimeAbout five hours.
AccommodationSquirreled away in the woods, with memorable Galtee views, Aherlow House Hotel Lodges (062-56153, www.aherlow house.ie) has comfortable three-star rooms and well-appointed lodges. Light lunches, afternoon teas and evening meals are served in the Hunting Lodge Bar. You can get details of other hospitality options in the area from the tourist office in Tipperary (062-80520).