With its stunning Georgian architecture, Roman baths and cream teas, Bath offers visitors a chance to experience Britain through the ages, writes Maura Byrne
SUE, THE affable proprietor of the guest house we have booked in Bath, laments the fact that she doesn't get many Irish guests. A quick survey among friends tallies with her observations: only two out of 10 have visited the city; the rest have no idea where it is. This is a shame, because, both inexpensive and simple to get to, Bath is the perfect choice for an elegant weekend break.
For the record, Bath is in Somerset, in southwestern England, about 160km from London and 20km from Bristol. Lying at the bottom of the Avon Valley, the city is built from a creamy golden stone, and the result is stunningly beautiful.
Founded around natural hot springs where the Romans built baths and a temple, it then became popular as a spa resort during the Georgian era, and its main visual fascination lies with the juxtaposing layers of history evinced by the city's architecture.
A visit to the Roman Baths museum is a thrilling journey into the day-to-day lifestyle of the ancient Romans. You can see the original foundations, pillar bases and baths around the springs, and among the displays are fascinating curse tablets - messages written by wronged citizens, typically relating to theft, for example of small amounts of money or clothing from the bath house. They appeal to various gods to punish the perpetrators of the crime, by impairing their physical and mental wellbeing, by denying them sleep, by causing their normal bodily functions to cease, or even by death, until reparation is made.
The spa waters, which first attracted the Georgians to the city, are still taken by locals and visitors alike. I was excited to try it myself in the opulent surroundings of the ever-so- elegant Pump Room, a vast palm-tree-lined ballroom next to the Roman Baths where refreshments are served to hordes of ravenous tourists throughout the day, to the strains of a string quartet.
Although the sulphurous liquid is said to very good for one's health, I managed only a sip of it. Fortunately, a scrumptious, and hastily consumed, clotted-cream tea removed the foul taste.
Like Dublin, Bath is home to some of the finest Georgian architecture ever built. The two grandest addresses to stroll around are the Circus, a perfect circle of Georgian mansions designed by the renowned architect John Wood the Elder to symbolise the sun, and Royal Crescent, a semicircular arrangement of Georgian mansions built by John Wood the Younger, to symbolise the moon. Father and son, it should be pointed out, shared an interest in the occult. Nicolas Cage has a £4 million house on the Circus, but don't be put off.
Bath became the epicentre of fashionable life in 18th-century England, and it remains a stylish affair. Shoppers are all very well-heeled, glamourous young couples in suitably rustic tweeds with Boden-clad children dangling from their arms. Scores of designer boutiques line the streets, and lifestyle shops abound in which you can easily while away hours browsing through lovely but expensive knick-knacks.
A profusion of art galleries and vintage-furniture shops are crammed with the London set kitting out their weekend country bolt-holes.
Foodwise, Bath is a delight. Scores of restaurants offer a variety of cuisines, from traditional English to tapas. Even Jamie Oliver has set up shop here, and one can't escape the multitude of tiny tea rooms serving cream teas to many of the 4.8 million visitors that the city receives each year.
Bath buns - small, rich, sweet buns covered in sugar - are a local delicacy, as are Bath Olivers, biscuits invented by Dr William Oliver, a renowned local physician who treated people with the spa waters at Bath. Apparently it was he, too, who invented the Bath bun, which proved so delicious that his patients began to expand. After further experimentation he produced the plainer and less-fattening Bath Oliver biscuits - now available smothered in thick dark chocolate.
Where to stay, where to eat and where to go if you visit the city
5 places to stay
1. Abbey View Apartments.
Abbey Green, 00-44-1225-428558, www.abbeyheights.com. Right in the centre of the city, these luxury Georgian apartments provide stunning views of the abbey and are next door to the Roman Baths. First night £135 (€160), second night £115 (€135), additional nights £95 (€110). Sleeps four.
2. 3 Abbey Green Guest House. 00-44-1225-428558, www.threeabbeygreen.co.uk. This gorgeous listed town house, dating back to 1689, is right in the centre of the city. It has seven beautifully restored en-suite bedrooms. Doubles £85-£125 (€100-€150),family rooms £125-£175 (€150-€200), suite £135-£165 (€160-€195).
3.Dorian House.
1 Upper Oldfield Park, 00-44-1225-426336, www.dorianhouse.co.uk. This guest house has a musical flavour, as the owner is principal cellist with London Symphony Orchestra. With fine views over Royal Crescent, it is a Victorian period house with luxurious touches. Doubles £80-£165 (€95-€195), singles £65-£78 (€75-€90).
4.Bath Youth Hostel. Bathwick Hill, 00-44-1225-465674, www.yha.org.uk. Set in a beautiful Italianate mansion, this hostel is a comfortable base. From £12.50 (£15) per night.
5.Royal Crescent Hotel. 16 Royal Crescent, 00-44-1225- 823333, www.royalcrescent. co.uk. If money is no object, treat yourself to a stay here. A perfect setting with a Jane Austen feel. Doubles £320-£870 (€380-€1,030).
5 places to eat
1.The Hole in the Wall. George Street, 00-44-1225- 425242, www.theholeinthe wall.co.uk. One of Bath's best-known restaurants. Extremely cosy and friendly. Mains £11-£18 (€13-€21).
2.The Moon and Sixpence.
27 Milsom Place, 00-44-1225- 320088, www.moonandsix pence.co.uk. A favourite with locals, this serves good international cuisine. Mains £11-£18 (€13-€21).
3.Sally Lunn's. North Parade Passage, 00-44-1225-461634, www.sallylunns.co.uk. Set in the oldest house in Bath, and serving buns made to a secret recipe, this is an extremely quaint experience.
4.Jamie's Italian. 10 Milsom Place, 00-44-1225-510051, www.jamieoliver.com. Serving delicious, simple Italian food in a gorgeous Georgian building, Jamie Oliver brings his brand of magic to the city. Mains £9-£16.50 (€10.50-€19.50).
5.Bistro La Barrique. 31 Barton Street, 00-44-1225- 46386, www.bistrolabarrique. co.uk. A bistro serving a range of petits plats- think French tapas - for £5 (€6) per plate.
5 places to go
Pulteney Bridge. This city-centre bridge, designed by Robert Adam and completed in 1773, is one of only four bridges in the world with shops across the full span on both sides. Adam was inspired by Ponte Vecchio, in Florence.
Jane Austen Centre. 40 Gay Street, Queen Square, 00-44-1225-443000, www.janeausten.co.uk.The centre tells the story of the writer's time in Bath, where she lived and set two of her novels, Northanger Abbeyand Persuasion.
Thermae Bath Spa. 00-44-1225-331234, www.thermaebathspa.com. Launched by the Three Tenors in 2002, this modern spa in the centre of the city finally opened its doors in 2006. At night, head to the rooftop pool, where you can soak in the hot spring water under the starry skies.
Bath Abbey. 12 Kingston Buildings, 00-44-1225-422462, www.bathabbey.org. Right in the city centre, this magnificent Gothic abbey was rebuilt between the 12th and 16th centuries.
The Roman Baths. Stall Street, 00-44-1225-477785, www.romanbaths.co.uk. A thrilling journey into the day-to-day lifestyle of the ancient Romans. Includes the Pump Room, a neoclassical salon where hot spa water is drawn for drinking.
Hot spot
• Ha! Ha! Bar Canteen. The Tram Shed, Beehive Yard, Walcot Street, 00-44-1225- 421200, www.hahaonline. co.uk. This bar and restaurant regularly hosts the trendy set. The courtyard setting lends a quirky feel.
Go there
Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) flies from Dublin to Bristol. From there get a taxi to Bath (about £35/€42) or take a bus or taxi to Bristol Temple Meads station, which has regular trains to Bath, 15 minutes away.