Charlotte Coleman-Smithstays at Coxtown Manor in Donegal
WE ARRIVED at Coxtown Manor with the first flurries of unseasonal sleet sliding down the windscreen. The sweeping driveway took us past fields of shivering lambs towards our destination – an attractive, late Georgian manor house just outside Donegal town – which stood stoic in the drizzle.
After fumbling with an already open door, our family of five – three boys aged three, six and eight – tumbled into the graceful entrance hall. Coxtown was transformed into an elegant guesthouse by Belgian, Edward Dewael, a few years ago. Since then, the awards have come tumbling in – it features in the Bridgestone Guide's 100 Best Places to Stay in Ireland.
As we got to know our host, we warmed to his quiet generosity. When our youngest turned his nose up at the gorgeous food – of which more later – Edward produced basket after basket of white toast. There were kind words and hair tousling for the boys and plenty of leisurely chat.
This personal touch lifts Coxtown out of the ordinary. First impressions were that things were just a little bit faded, but with charm intact. The drawingroom, with its warm colours, comfy sofas and open fire was robust enough to weather a three-year-old charging about, but enticing enough to still the other two. It probably helped that the other guests had headed off to trace their ancestors for the day. The eldest curled up with his book and a cup of tea, while the middle one settled down to a game of draughts.
Our family room was one of four in the converted coach-house. Although the temptation is to feel short-changed when you’re not in the “old bit” – in fact, the coach-house has 200 years on the main house – the room did not disappoint. While more four- than five-star, the warmth from the radiators and the lovely bathroom with its huge bath and power shower provided a sanctuary as we waited for the boys to drift off. Rooms in the main house are elegant and sunny, with fireplaces and spacious, thoroughly modernised bathrooms.
A trained chef, Edward used to run a very well respected restaurant at Coxtown. It made a loss every year, despite being packed to the rafters. He told us how he loves to cook, but that the grind of producing food to such a high standard night after night took its toll. He now offers a bar menu. Well, the meals we enjoyed two nights running were among the best I’ve ever had. Crab, smoked salmon and prawns are the main ingredients. Chicken soup and a ham and cheese plate provide non-fishy alternatives.
Despite the comforts of the house, there is not much to keep you there during the day. We braved biting wind to visit Murvagh beach and were rewarded with a magnificent view of Benbulben and white sand, fringed by bluey-black mountains. We watched tractors harvesting seaweed and rain changing to brilliant sunshine. There were football games, running races and hide-and-seek in the sand dunes. Had we more time, we might have ventured into the Bluestack Mountains, or the cliffs of Slieve League, less than an hour away.
All this outdoor fun was fuelled by yet another fabulous meal at Coxtown – breakfast. A simple order of poached egg on toast with tomatoes was transformed into a five-star experience. There were home-made jams, fruit salad and freshly squeezed orange juice. And, just in case the omega-3 levels needed another boost, more delicious salmon.
The food and the man who cooks it are the star turns at this pleasant but low-key country house B&B. And if you’ve kids in tow, it’s a great base from which to explore the magnificent coastline.
WhereCoxtown Manor, Laghey, Donegal town, Co Donegal, 074-9734575, coxtownmanor.com.
WhatCountry house B&B.
RoomsNine.
Best ratesDouble/twin room in coach-house from €99 per room B&B; superior room in main house €139 per room B&B.
Restaurants and barsFully licensed bar and bar food on site.
Child-friendlinessWelcoming, but once you've strolled round the grassy gardens and patted the sheep, head for the beaches.
AccessTwo ground-floor rooms in the coach-house wheelchair accessible.
AmenitiesMurvagh and Dunfanaghy golf clubs; sandy beaches nearby; great walking in the Bluestack Mountains; live music and restaurants in Donegal town.