GEMMA TIPTONstays at the Heritage, Co Laois
ARRIVING at the Heritage Golf Spa Resort in falling darkness is disconcerting. Having left the M7 in Co Laois, you quickly find yourself in the middle of the countryside, where you may have imagined no countryside remained. But just as you reconcile yourself to winding lanes and open spaces, dimly visible in the twilight, you discover a large gateway that opens on to another world. This is a world of chic town houses, of golf and clubhouse, spa and hotel.
I parked outside the clubhouse at first by mistake. Once inside the hotel, however, I discovered, after the gloom of an Irish winter evening, a huge, opulent and bright lobby, with a dramatic marble staircase, gilt-edged antique-looking furniture, soft armchairs and an open fire.
I was staying at the Heritage because I’ve been spending too much time driving between Cork and Dublin, and, as the road between the two improves, I’ve had the developing sense that the more you speed between points, the more you miss the bits in the middle. So it was in the spirit of discovery that I had come here.
I’ve read about Killenard, too, snippets in the newspaper about rampant development and injudicious housing estates. This may be true, but there’s also a great deal of the area still untouched, swathes of countryside full of farmland and natural beauty. And also, since 2005, on what was once 120 hectares of barley fields, there is the Heritage.
I think the Heritage is fruit of the if-you-build-it-they-will- come dreams that have peppered the countryside with hotels, all of which must be feeling insecure against the swirling economic storm.
Check-in was excellent, with the type of friendly yet efficient service that John McKenna, of the Bridgestone guides, must have been talking about when he described the “Irish food and hospitality culture” that visitors to this country appreciate so much.
Friendly and professional they may have been, but the Heritage was very quiet – that said, it was a midweek night in January, and it was fully booked for the weekend – the Aga Khan was coming for a ball that had something to do with horseracing.
My room, on the third floor, had noisy heating, which I turned off, and which seemed unnecessary, as the room remained perfectly warm all night. I had a view of the car park at the front of the hotel, which was unfortunate, as other aspects look on to the golf course, lake and mountains.
The room was luxurious and comfortable in an old-world-elegance rather than funky-modern sort of a way. Lily O’Briens chocolates waited in little boxes on the pillows, and mineral water was provided at the bedside. Prints of Italianate (and other) gazebos adorned the walls.
The enormous bathroom had a walk-in shower and free-standing bath (of the type that is extremely comfortable to lounge in). I’m not sure who makes the shampoo, conditioner and body lotion, as they all had Heritage branding, but they smelled delicious.
I headed down to explore. A sign announced that Mercedes-Benz was there for a conference, although I could see no sign of its staff. The bar was empty but welcoming and had a squashy sofa, a cosy fire, an excellent barman and very nice red wine, a combination that enticed me to stay awhile.
The barman wasn’t Irish, which proves it isn’t necessarily nationality that matters in Irish hotels but the standard of training that gives international visitors the “Irish” experience they’re looking for.
Back in my room I read about the six-kilometre walk you can take around the hotel grounds, the tennis and the Seve Ballesteros and Jeff Howes golf course, none of which I intended to avail of in such awful weather.
Next morning, breakfast was cooked to order, as there weren’t enough guests to warrant setting up the hot buffet. I opted for eggs Benedict, which arrived with salami and asparagus instead of the advertised Parma ham and spinach. It annoys me when restaurants make substitutions without telling you when you’re ordering, but this was the only wrong note struck during my stay.
Leaving, complete with helpful directions for the shortest way back to the main road, I looked back at the hotel from outside. It’s strange: despite all the nicely done antiquey luxury inside, from the outside it looks as if an architect who used to specialise in Eastern bloc city edifices has had a go at it. Nevertheless, everything else at the Heritage seems to have been gone into in thoughtful detail. I’m sure the Aga Khan had a marvellous time, and I wish them well. I really hope they weather the times ahead.
WhereThe Heritage Golf Spa Resort, Killenard, Co Laois, 057-8645500, www.theheritage.com.
WhatFive-star hotel with golf and spa.
Rooms98, including 13 suites, plus 22 apartments.
Best rates€160 per room BB midweek. See online for golf and spa and special-occasion packages.
Restaurants and barsArlington Room restaurant, Slieve Bloom bar, Sol Oriens Italian restaurant and steakhouse, Thatch pub, Clubhouse restaurant, lounge.
Child friendlinessChildren's games room, plus cinema (subject to availability).
AccessFive wheelchair- accessible rooms.
AmenitiesChampionship golf course, spa with pool, thermal suite and treatment rooms, helipad, free internet access, tennis court.