MICHAEL PARSONS stays at Clontarf Castle Hotel, in Dublin
IRISH CASTLE HOTELS tend be posh five-star establishments surrounded by landscaped parkland. Think Ashford, Dromoland and Waterford. But despite being hemmed in by suburban housing estates, Clontarf Castle Hotel retains an air of isolated splendour. Its seaside location in north Dublin is close to where Brian Ború, the 72-year-old high king of Ireland, was slain by Viking invaders in the infamous battle on Good Friday 1014.
An original mediaeval castle on the site passed into the hands of the Vernon family, who came to Ireland with Oliver Cromwell and eventually went native. By the early 19th century the building was declared unsafe and demolished, and the family commissioned a stately new home from William Vetruvius Morrison. He’s the architect also responsible for, among other buildings, Fota House, in Co Cork, Kilruddery House, in Co Wicklow, and Borris House, in Co Carlow.
The result was a Gothic Revival pile with whimsical medieval and Tudor flourishes. But the Vernon male line failed, and by the 1960s the “castle” had become a hotel with a reputation as a popular cabaret and wedding venue. In 2006 it underwent a €10 million refurbishment, with the addition of a wing that unexpectedly blends in very well with the old house.
The grounds and spacious (free) car park are guarded by a pride of marble lions and a solitary bronze-coloured fibreglass interloper.
The entrance is dramatic. Combining “medieval” and modern often results in disastrous kitsch, but not here. There’s luxury with panache and a dash of humour. The overall look is Balmoral Castle given a makeover by Versace. A soaring glass atrium fills the hall with light, and a red Murano-glass chandelier faces an exposed brick wall where the main feature is a Juliet balcony hung with stuffed pheasants. A huge baronial fireplace, tapestries and shiny suits of armour are somehow complemented by Daliesque gilt chairs. The reception desk is overlooked by two majestic stag-head trophies and backed by a luminous opaque-glass wall hung with old-fashioned keys. A nice touch.
Check-in was handled efficiently by courteous and friendly staff, and – always a good sign in a hotel – the general manager, Pius Furlong, was visibly but unobtrusively on hand to ensure any ruffles were smoothed out.
In contrast to the Victorian ornateness of the public rooms, the bedroom was decorated in contemporary style, with smart fixtures and fittings. A very comfortable bed had an attractive headboard with backlit coloured-glass panels. The bathroom had no bath but an excellent walk-in shower.
A €9.99 promotion offered unlimited access for 24 hours to films and the internet (using the TV screen and a keyboard or high-speed laptop connection).
Despite the prevailing economic gloom, the hotel was very busy on a Saturday evening, with at least three big functions under way. The bars and restaurants were all full. Guests attending a 50th birthday party in the Viking banqueting suite praised the “excellent” service and “delicious” food.
This award-winning hotel is a very popular venue for family occasions and celebrations. It also organises special entertainment events. An advertisement in the foyer had details of forthcoming visits by those crusty old knights of Irish light entertainment Ronan Collins, Sonny Knowles and Dickie Rock (see Make your mother’s day, page 8). As the American journalist HL Mencken once observed, nobody ever went broke underestimating public taste.
A guest leaving any good hotel should feel well rested and well fed. Clontarf Castle offers much more. Its mix of clever architecture, imaginative decor and well-trained staff creates an ideal haven for flight-of-fancy escapism. It’s a formula that clearly has wide appeal.
WhereClontarf Castle Hotel, Castle Avenue, Clontarf, Dublin 3, 01-8332321, www.clontarfcastle.ie.
WhatStylish four-star hotel three kilometres from O'Connell Street and a stroll from Clontarf's seafront promenade.
Rooms111 rooms and suites. Some of the executive rooms and suites have four-poster beds.
Best ratesThe Romance Package costs €145 per person sharing for bed and full Irish breakfast, with champagne, chocolates and dinner, based on a one-night stay. The hotel, which is close to the new O2 Arena, offers special rates for concert-goers.
Food and drinkThe Fahrenheit Grill serves breakfast, lunch and dinner seven days a week. The Indigo Lounge is open for morning coffee with pastries, afternoon tea and, in the evenings, cafe-style food. Knights Bar has a Gothic feel, a huge open fireplace, a stunning ceiling and stained glass windows. It also serves bar food.
Child-friendlinessChildren would love the medieval-castle atmosphere. Babysitting services available on request.
AmenitiesExtensive business-conference facilities can host events for up to 600 people. Named business hotel of the year in 2008 by Georgina Campbell's Ireland. The hotel is also a very popular venue for weddings, christenings, birthday parties and other family and social occasions. There's complimentary secure car parking for guests and a courtesy coach to Eastpoint Business Park on weekdays.