DEIRDRE VELDONstays at Castle Leslie Lodge, Co Monaghan
I EXPECTED A STAY at Castle Leslie, in Co Monaghan, to be of the eccentric-but-charming variety. I was ready to supply, in spades, indulgence of its quirks. To my surprise, few foibles were unearthed and little tolerance was required.
Another surprise is that it’s more an accommodation complex than a hotel. You can stay in the grandeur of the castle itself, in the Lodge or in the self-catering Old Stable Mews. The 400-hectare estate has several other quaint, ruined buildings whose future may yet blossom, if the energetic Sammy Leslie has anything to do with it.
We didn’t feel like lording it up at the castle, so we plumped for the 30-bedroom lodge, a cut-stone Victorian building with harmonious contemporary additions throwing light into its nooks and crannies.
We were late, thanks to our insistence on following the directions from the Castle Leslie website to the letter – or the number, in our case. They gave the motorway exit number as 16 when it should have been 14. But who pays attention to exit numbers, right? We enjoyed a lively debate on that very issue as we meandered the less-direct road to Monaghan.
Though our table had been waiting for us for half an hour at the Lodge’s Snaffles Brasserie, we were cordially welcomed at reception and not hustled along in the slightest.
Dinner was a little uneven, but where it was good it was very good indeed. An indifferent cos salad and goat’s cheese that had refused to melt on ratatouille gave way to duck and lamb that tasted properly of both, followed by a middling tarte Tatin (notwithstanding the very fine butterscotch sauce) and some puffy, gooey profiteroles.
Probably the best thing about Castle Leslie is its relationship with Glaslough, its village. We loved the idea of staying on a big-house estate but being able to walk to a pub in two minutes. While we were at the gorgeous Olde Bar, the Triple Crown cup and plate arrived for inspection from its stay at Monaghan Rugby Club. We drank in some of the local pride.
Back at the Lodge our room was immediately appealing, decorated in muted, rich tones of burgundy and brown, with silk and velvet upholstery. It overlooked the 60-berth shipshape stables, whose occupants the estate is using as its selling point.
The equestrian theme dominates; each of the rooms is called after estate horses, which is fine until you’re trying to think whether your room is Cyndex or Spandex for the breakfast waitress. The best that can be said of the ubiquitous horse and hound prints was that they were thematically consistent.
The bathroom was sweet, with high ceilings offsetting what it lacked in floor space. There was lots of wainscoting, a claw-footed roll-top bath and a walk-in shower with a head as big as a dinner plate. It seemed trivial to bemoan the lack of shelving or countertops in the bathroom. Slippers and robes would have been a nice touch.
Earlier, detecting an unseasonal chill in the room, we had asked that the radiators be turned on. When we returned after dinner they were still cold, so we rang reception. The man on duty said a plumber was in the building, as they’d had problems, so he’d put him to work on it. He seemed utterly unfazed that the plumber was wandering around at 11.45pm.
As I left the phone down I was unclear whether we should expect the plumber. So we spent the next 45 minutes waiting for him to pitch up at our room, wrench at the ready. He didn’t, but that may have been my poor plumbing- comprehension skills.
The bed – two zipped large singles – was very comfortable, with good linen and decent pillows. That made it even more of pity that the banging started so early, at around 7am. I imagined, groggily, that it was inconsiderate fellow residents on the corridors. Then we realised it was the horses banging on the stable doors below. All was forgiven.
Breakfast back at Snaffles was acceptable with only one bum note. The sideboard buffet had a lovely fruit, cereal and cold-plate selection, with pastries that were fine. The poached eggs and bacon was just right. But no matter how much maple syrup was applied, the stack of pancakes couldn’t shake its dryness.
We drove out of the gates refreshed and feeling well able to summon up the concentration to follow the signs all the way back to Dublin.
Where:Castle Leslie Lodge, Castle Leslie Estate, Glaslough, Co Monaghan, 047-88100, castleleslie.com.
What:Four-star Victorian hunting lodge in the grounds of Castle Leslie Estate.
Rooms:30.
Best rates:One-night midweek escape includes BB, dinner and a bottle of house wine for €85 midweek and €155 at weekends until the end of October.
Restaurants and bars: Snaffles Brasserie, a mezzanine-style restaurant with open kitchen, and Conor's Bar for more casual dining.
Child-friendliness:Children welcome. Family rooms available. Under-twos free in parents' room. Cots available free of charge.
Amenities:Victorian spa, horse riding, fishing, games room, cookery school, 400 hectares of estate walks; free Wi-Fi.
Access:Wheelchair access, lift.