GEMMA TIPTONstays at Fitzpatrick Castle Hotel, Co Dublin
IT TOOK US A while to check into Fitzpatrick Castle Hotel, in Killiney in Co Dublin, but it was worth the wait. I always find it frustrating when you’re sitting with your bags, waiting for someone else’s telephone conversation to end. The receptionist didn’t look up as she went through room rates, agreed with her caller that, yes, some dates were more expensive than others and explained that, no, they were full over a particular weekend, even though, she concurred, it was some time in the future. And on it went. Eventually, the porter came over and gave us our key card.
We were there midweek, but the lobby and bar were gently humming with the kind of relaxed crowd that has been missing lately from some of our hotels, where the recession has given more than a few lounges the feel of the Mary Celeste. We took the lift to the third floor – which, oddly enough, we later discovered to be just one flight of stairs up – and found our room freshly redecorated,
with large twin beds, a gilt frame around the wall-mounted TV and quite a bit of chintz in green, brown and gold. We had paid €35 extra for a sea view, and this also gave us a balcony with a little wrought iron table and chairs.
The castle is an 18th-century building that has been added to over time. It became a hotel in the 1970s, when the Fitzpatrick family, which also runs the Fitzpatrick hotels in New York, bought it. It has a fantastic location: it’s about half an hour from Dublin by Dart, and you can walk up from Dalkey station if you’re feeling energetic.
Dalkey village, about 15 minutes away on foot, is lovely and full of bars and restaurants, and the hotel backs on to the gorgeous Killiney and Dalkey hills. Climb over these – well, it’s more a gentle stroll – and you’re treated to the full vista of Killiney Bay. As it was a dripping-wet evening we dispensed with the walk and went to the bar.
The lounge-cum-lobby has deep sofas, a rather loud carpet, a piano, some antiques and more gilt frames. There’s also a bar, which is darker, with a masculine wood-and- leather-sofa appeal. We opted for the lounge and some surprisingly excellent cocktails.
It’s a restful and relaxing place, with a good atmosphere. Families and couples were enjoying themselves, and from the
far end of the lounge and through a window we could see swimmers taking the healthy option in the hotel pool.
Back up in the room we found chocolates on our pillows, plus a card telling us to expect sunny spells and scattered showers the next day. As we tend to expect
this most days, except
when torrential rain is forecast, we weren’t unduly dismayed.
I checked a couple of e-mails. I always check my e-mails. It’s an addiction I wish I could give up. The rooms have wireless internet, for which you pay by the hour, or for a full day, which I find a little mean in hotels, a bit like charging for soap.
There was a complimentary bottle of mineral water on the side table, though, with a note announcing that you could “turn this water into wine” for just a few euro, which I found very funny, although that was possibly the effect of the cocktails.
As the hotel has been redecorating the rooms on the third floor, ask for one of these if possible. It’s also worth paying the little bit extra for the balcony and the view – though, to save potential disappointment, you should know that the sea is to the side rather than face on to your window, and your main view is of enormous old trees and the hotel lawns.
I wish, when they were redoing our room, that they had changed the doors, too – a fair bit of noise came in from the corridor, at night from people filtering up from the bar and restaurants, and in the morning from early-rising children and cleaning staff. The latter seem to start their working day at the crack of dawn, so make sure to put your Do Not Disturb sign out the night before if you want a lie-in.
Breakfast was good, with an enormous buffet containing everything you’d expect. They made me a fresh espresso, and after checking out – much quicker than checking in – we stepped into the sunny spells and scattered showers feeling very tempted to extend our stay.
WhereFitzpatrick Castle Hotel, Killiney, Co Dublin, 01-2305400, fitzpatrickcastle.com.
WhatFour-star hotel.
Rooms113 bedrooms, including 10 suites.
Best ratesFrom €99 per room. Offers include three nights for the price of two. Check online for more offers.
Restaurants and barsPJ's Restaurant, Dungeon Bar Grill, Library Bar.
Child-friendlinessChildren welcome. Family rooms, family swim times, creche.
AccessOne fully- accessible room. Restaurant and bar are also accessible.
AmenitiesSwimming pool, spa, gym, games room, conference facilities, gardens, car parking, excellent location at the foot of Killiney Hill.