SYLVIA THOMPSONstays at Culloden Estate and Spa, Co Down
‘OOH, YOU’RE staying at the Culloden,” said a friend from the North with a smile. “That’s where government officials take people they want to impress,” he quipped. Unsure whether that meant the hotel would be a bit stiff or too smart for us, we drove apprehensively up the avenue to this fine country-house hotel. Our concerns disappeared with the warm welcome from the receptionist.
Built as a family home in the 19th century, and later used as a bishop’s palace, Culloden Estate and Spa overlooks Belfast Lough to the west and the Holywood Hills to the northeast. In 1996 it became Northern Ireland’s first hotel to be awarded five stars.
Our room – which, like the rest of the hotel, is strictly non-smoking – was in an impressive wing that opened last year. The stylish decor won us over instantly: a subtle blend of aquamarine, grey and cream in curtains, upholstery and bed covers, in good-quality materials, created a sumptuous and relaxing atmosphere.
A last-minute upgrade to an executive double room meant we had plenty of space. The large bed was firm yet comfortable. Its crisp white sheets – and pillows galore – were topped with a lightweight duvet and an extra blanket for those who might need it (unlikely, given the warmth of the room).
The bathroom was wonderful. No expense was spared on the fittings, large bath and shower with two sprayers – one with cold water only, presumably for those who enjoy an icy shock at the end of their shower. A large mirror featured various lighting combinations, leaving guests to choose to view themselves less or more flatteringly.
I went down to check out the spa while my husband luxuriated in the bath.
The spa consists of a smallish swimming pool with a Jacuzzi to the side. Guests can also spend time in a steam room, use gym equipment or book a massage or other beauty therapy in nearby treatment rooms.
Not a big fan of steam or bubbly hot water, I swam for a while and then enjoyed the powerful showers and scented beauty products in the comfortable changing rooms.
The spa is open to outside members; on my visit, some local women suggested places to eat that evening.
Back downstairs, we discussed our options for dinner. We quickly realised that we weren’t in the mood for the fine-dining experience at the award-winning Mitre Restaurant. At £60 (about €70) per person, it seemed good value, but the formality of a silver-service meal, and the idea of sitting at large round tables with guests we didn’t know, wasn’t what we wanted.
The Cultra Inn, in the grounds of the Culloden, is promoted as an alternative. Within a few minutes’ walk of the hotel, it has casual kitchen-style tables and chairs in a large open-plan space that make it a good option for families. The menu includes pasta, fish and chips and other standard fare.
We decided to explore the village of Holywood instead. We had a look at the restaurants suggested by the women I met in the spa, opting for Wine Co, a bistro. The downstairs bar and upstairs restaurant were buzzing with locals.
We thoroughly enjoyed fried Camembert, hake, sausages and mash (served with local organic vegetables) and creme brulee.
In keeping with its bistro style, many of its wide range of wines were available by the glass.
When we got back to the hotel we strolled through the terraced gardens. Although the chilly air drew us back indoors pretty quickly, looking down on Belfast Lough left a particularly striking impression.
Back inside, we relaxed in comfortable armchairs in one of the fine reception rooms, with coal fires, antique furnishing and a remarkable collection of paintings.
The clientele was varied, with no particular mood dominating. The staff, too, were relaxed, neither overly attentive nor casual.
We lingered for more than an hour, finding this a perfect place for a nightcap on a cold evening.
Our booking didn’t include breakfast. Instead, we enjoyed a quick swim in the pool before heading to Bangor for breakfast and a bracing walk on the seafront.
WhereCulloden Estate and Spa, Bangor Road, Holywood, Co Down, 048-90421066, www.hastingshotels.com.
WhatFive-star hotel on five hectares of gardens and woodlands.
Rooms105 bedrooms, including 56 executive suites and a presidential suite.
Best ratesDouble or twin room from £50pps (€60pps); with dinner from £70pps (€83pps); or with spa treatment from £100pps (€120pps). Five nights with two dinners from £300pps (€355pps).
Restaurants and barsFine-dining Mitre Restaurant, casual Cultra Inn. Cosy bar in converted chapel. Stylish lounges.
Child-friendlinessNot specifically oriented towards children, but swimming pool is an attraction for families.
AmenitiesPool, Jacuzzi, steam room, fitness room and spa treatments. Conference facilities and free parking.