The Alps loom large and tranquillity and vibrancy co-exist in the beautiful city of Lucerne, writes Mark Rodden
LUCERNE REGULARLY ranks high in lists of the best places to visit in Europe and, taking one look at the picturesque surroundings of the city, it's clear why this is.
For, while Lucerne offers everything you would expect of a top European destination in terms of culture and history, it is also located in an area of striking natural beauty.
Situated in central Switzerland, at the edge of Lake Lucerne and with the towering white peaks of Mount Rigi and Mount Pilatus overlooking it, Lucerne offers breathtaking scenery.
The city was established in 1178 and two of its main landmarks are the beautiful 14th-century water tower and the kappelbrücke (chapel bridge), which runs across the Reuss River that dissects the city. Much of the wooden bridge, including the majority of the 17th-century artwork on its eaves, was destroyed by fire in 1993, but it was quickly reconstructed with some of the original paintings preserved.
With a population of just 60,000, Lucerne is small and easy to navigate on foot, and a tranquil walk by the lakeside gives a good introduction to the surroundings. Indeed, one of the best ways to appreciate the city itself is to simply stroll through the pedestrianised, winding streets of the Old Town, with its painted frescoes, or to walk the city by night.
One feature you will stumble upon is the Lion Monument, aptly described by Mark Twain in A Tramp Abroad as the "most mournful and moving piece of stone in the world". The sculpture, carved into the rock face off a quiet street, depicts a dying lion clinging to the coat of arms of Switzerland. It was unveiled in 1821 in memory of almost 800 Swiss Guards who died defending France's Louis XVI in Paris in 1792.
While a walk through Lucerne is peaceful, it can also be a vibrant city. We arrived on the night of the Honky Tonk Festival, which featured 40 bands playing in 31 bars and clubs. We took in a blues session in the luxurious five-star Hotel Schweizerhof, funk and soul in the eye-catching interior of the Grand Casino Luzern, indie rock at the Nautilus Club and, for the novelty factor alone, a Swiss-Irish folk band who were playing on a boat on Lake Lucerne.
Honky Tonk is one of numerous festivals Lucerne hosts each year. The month-long Lucerne Festival in summer, which will take place in August and September, is a feast for classical music fans and will see some of the world's leading orchestras performing at the KKL Luzern Culture and Convention Centre. The city comes alive for the Carnival every February, the Lucerne Festival at Easter hosts more classical music concerts and there is also a blues festival in November.
No matter where you go in Lucerne, the Swiss Alps loom large, and a visit would not be complete without seeing them up close. In summer you can catch the world's steepest cog railway to the summit of the 2132m Mount Pilatus or else catch a bus to Kriens, just 15 minutes from Lucerne, where, until the end of October, you can take a cable car to the top. The half-hour journey offers spectacular views of the city below and you can stop off along the way to try your hand at sledding or hiking.
After taking in the view and a good dose of mountain air at the summit, a drink by the banks of the Reuss river is a fitting way to round off the weekend.
GO There
Aer Lingus ( www.aerlingus.com) flies from Dublin to Zurich five times a week and Ryanair ( www.ryanair.com) flies from Dublin to Basel three times each week. Both cities are just over an hour from Lucerne by train. SAS ( www.flysas.com) flies from Dublin to Zurich
5 places to stay
Hotel Schweizerhof Luzern. 3 Schweizerhofquai, 00-41-41-4100410, www.schweizerhof-luzern.ch. Lucerne is packed full of five-star hotels with great views of the lake. This central, 107-room hotel, built in 1845, is one such location. Double rooms start at €180 per night.
Art Deco Hotel Montana. 22 Adligenswilerstrasse, 00-41-41-4190000, www.hotel-montana.ch. Situated on a hill overlooking Lake Lucerne, most of this four-star hotel's rooms offer excellent views. A funicular carries guests from the lake directly to the hotel lobby for free. Doubles from €160 per night.
Romantik Hotel Wilden Mann. 30 Bahnhofstrasse, 00-41-41-2101666, www.wilden-mann.ch. Seven adjoining townhouses, the oldest of which dates to 1517, were renovated to form this hotel in the Old Town. It also has two restaurants, including the beautiful neo-Gothic Burgerstube. Doubles from €134 per night.
Hotel des Alpes. 5 Rathausquai 00-41-41-4172060, www.desalpes-luzern.ch. This three-star hotel is situated on a busy street and looks out over the Reuss river, the Water Tower and the Chapel Bridge. Doubles start at about €90 per night.
The Bed + Breakfast. 34 Taubenhausstrasse, 00-41-41-3101514, www.thebandb.ch. This small venue is open between March and October. Just a 15-minute walk from the train station, it has eight bedrooms and a cosy breakfast room. Bikes are available for hire and there are reductions for children under 12. Doubles from €38 per person.
5 places to eat
Rathaus Brauerei. 2 Unter der Egg, 00-41-41-4105257, www.rathausbrauerei.ch. For simple traditional Swiss food and home-brewed beer in a lively, old-fashioned setting, check out this tavern located alongside the Reuss River.
Old Swiss House. 4 Löwenplatz, 00-41-41-4106171, www.oldswisshouse.ch. This finely decorated restaurant, built in 1858, has plenty of Swiss specialities, including wiener schnitzel, a dish of veal, egg, cheese, herbs and breadcrumbs.
Scala Restaurant (Hotel Montana). 22 Adligenswilerstrasse, 00-41-41-4190000, www.hotel-montana.ch. A number of hotels in Lucerne feature quality restaurants and this is one of the most highly-regarded. With a different menu each night, it serves up Swiss, Italian, French and Greek food.
Brasserie Bodu. 5 Kornmarkt, 00-41-41-4100177. Another venue with a good view of the river. This elegant French restaurant in the Alstadt is well-liked for its steaks and excellent wine list.
Takrai, 9 Haldenstrasse, 00-41-41-4120404, www.takrai.ch. Lucerne has its fair share of international cuisine and this snug Thai restaurant is always packed at lunchtime. The food is inexpensive but plentiful and tasty.
5 things to do
Visit Mount Pilatus ( www.pilatus.ch). For snowboarding, sledding or skiing in winter, hiking in summer, or to take in the impressive views at the top, a visit to Pilatus is a must. The top can be reached by the Pilatus Railway, the world's steepest cogwheel railway from Alpnachstad, from May to November.
Lake Lucerne, 0041-41-3676767, www.lakelucerne.ch. Whether for a stroll by the promenade, to try out a pedalo or to take a tour on an old-time steamboat, Lake Lucerne is something to behold. Tickets for boat travel range from €18.70 to €54.85.
KKL Luzern Culture and Convention Centre. 1 Europaplatz, 00-41-41-2267777, www.kkl-luzern.ch. Designed by renowned French architect Jean Nouvel and with acclaimed acoustics, this is the perfect venue for taking in a classical music concert. The centre is also home to the Museum of Art.
Swiss Museum of Transport, 5 Lidostrasse, 00-41-41-3704444, www.verkehrshaus.ch. For boys young and old, this collection of planes, trains and automobiles - complete with a flight simulator, a planetarium and an IMAX cinema - will keep you entertained for an afternoon.
Rosengart Collection, 10 Pilatusstrasse, 00-41-41-2201660, www.rosengart.ch. For a small city, Lucerne has a lot of museums, and this is one of the best-known. It includes 50 works by Pablo Picasso, 125 by Paul Klee and also features Chagall, Cézanne, Kandinsky, Matisse, Monet and Renoir.
Hot spot
The Loft (Haldenstrasse 21, 00-41-41-4109244, www.theloft.ch) is popular with a younger crowd.
Where to shop
Weggisgasse and the nearby Kappelgasse are the two main shopping streets. Check out Manor department store, the Emmen Center and the PilatusMarkt shopping centres. There's also a flea market at Burgerstrasse from May to October.
Top tip
Lucerne can be expensive, so it's best to familiarise yourself with the currency before going. One Swiss franc is worth roughly two-thirds of a euro.