The charm of Mykonos lies in the contrast between its proud Orthodox heritage and its hedonistic high life, writes Genevieve Carbery
IT'S GETTING BRIGHT. All around, myriad white walls shine. The harbour's clear blue water sparkles. Head to toe in black, the wizened-faced woman emerges. She sweeps the fallen bougainvillea petals from below her balcony.
But she's not alone, nor is it silent. Down the street, just beyond the blue-domed little church, the music pumps, people laugh and shots are quaffed as the glitterati of Mykonos welcome in another day. This contrast defines the small Greek island. In the space between proud Orthodox heritage and hedonistic high life lies Mykonos's charm.
One such place is the main town of Mykonos (also called Hora). Originally designed to confuse invaders, the maze of Mykonos's winding narrow white and blue streets still confounds its visitors.
But for any traveller who loves to wander aimlessly, the permanent state of being lost in these shaded streets is a pleasure.
A great afternoon can be had browsing the pricey shops full of designer clothes, ornate jewellery and tasteful tourist trinkets - and taking a breather in the tranquil little churches and quiet residential corners.
The striking blue sea eventually lies at the end of every random route. There are lots of cafes and restaurants at the town's pretty old port and promenade, or along the sea walls at Little Venice.
However, prices vary widely, buoyed up by the crowd from the cruise ships who regularly throng the streets in the afternoons. Taxis can be in short supply, so be prepared for a wait in the heat.
With only one inland village, the bulk of any visitor's time will be spent at one of the island's dozens of unspoiled beaches. Most beaches are surrounded by craggy Connemara-style granite hills with white cube houses nestled inside. The traditional architecture is such a relief from many of the built-up European resorts. In true Mykonos style, each beach has developed its own niche market, be it party, family, gay, nudist, water sports, romantic or isolated escape.
Busy, self-contained family or romantic beaches such as Platys Gialos, Paraga beach and Ornos Bay are lined with hotels and restaurants, packed with sun umbrellas, and offer water sports and boat trips. Shirley Valentine's beach, Agios Ioannis, is a great spot for watching the sunset.
The strong winds that cool the island in the evenings, bash Mykonos's exposed and less-developed northern beaches, such as Ftelia beach, making them a windsurfing favourite.
Hardcore party people will love the well-established - but crazy - beaches of Paradise and Superparadise. Throngs of bikini-clad beautiful people regularly dance all night at these spots, which are best reached by regular boat taxis, which run until the early hours. Arriving home as the sun rises is almost unavoidable on at least one night of any stay in Mykonos.
One of the most popular of the main town's bars, Celebrities, meets the needs of the many glamorous partygoers. But there are other, more unassuming places, and sipping cocktails outside a club at the water in the Little Venice quarter is chilled, but still in the middle of it all. For a more subdued option, there are plenty of bars at the quieter beaches - such as Ornos - where you can enjoy a glass of delicious Greek wine by the sea.
The Greeks claim to have invented wine over 6,000 years ago. The dark, decadent local reds were one of the many surprising discoveries.
Best known for ouzo and lamb moussaka, the cuisine is so much more than that. Dotted around every corner and on every beach are places to eat. They vary from the traditional taverna to the upmarket restaurant.
In both, the food is tasty, passionate, endless, simple and rooted in Greek tradition. The island has not yet been invaded by fast-food chains or English fare (you can see why Shirley Valentine came here to escape her egg-and-chip dinners).
Warm bread with tzatizki (yogurt and cucumber dip) and fresh Greek salad (tomatoes, crumbling feta, lettuce) are obligatory accompaniments to any meal. It is vegetarian heaven, with mint and rice-stuffed vine leaves, roasted aubergines and deep-fried feta, while grilled lamb and locally caught fish are plentiful. Baklava (filo pasty, honey, nuts) and baked goods (walnut cake) are heavy but delicious desserts. It's hard to go wrong with gorgeous Greek fare and any adventures into pasta or burgers proved disappointing, but be wary the chilled buckets of potent local spirits offered at the end of a meal.
A welcome relief from this high civilisation is the ancient settlement at Delos. When you see its ruins from a distance it is hard to believe that nobody lives on the island.
Just an enjoyable 30-minute boat ride from Mykonos, the tiny island is one of the most important archaeological sites in Greece and was a shrine to Apollo from the 8th century BC.
Temples remain on the island from this early period through to Roman times. Stunning remains include near-perfect mosaics, such as Dionysus riding a tiger and a 2,000-year-old theatre.
But this is not strictly for hardcore history buffs. The real magic of this island is in its mythology. From up on top of the island's rocky mount, Zeus is said to have watched as his mistress gave birth to the sun god Apollo, one of the most revered gods.
The island is said to be the hottest and sunniest of the Greek archipelago because of its link with Apollo, and this certainly seems to be the case. It has a sacred stillness not felt on Mykonos.
Because of these rich stories and the island's archaeological significance, it is worth the loss of freedom to take a tour of this Unesco World Heritage Site.
The stark differences on offer between islands so close together is one of the great appeals of the Cyclades for any adventurous tourist.
Tinos is like an escape to an Irish country town. It's just a 15-minute fast boat ride away, or a more enjoyable hour sunbathing on the deck of a car ferry. Tinos is the Knock of the Greek islands, as Orthodox pilgrims come during Marian feast times to the town's church, which holds an icon of the Blessed Virgin Mary. Shops selling giant procession candles and every sort of Marian statue, from the tacky to the tasteful, line the main street.
But beyond its religious relish it has an insight to offer. In the quiet side-streets off the main port are charming, simple taverna with chequered tablecloths, white walls and purple bougainvillea.
The town has an unexplored and undeveloped feeling of possibility about it. Along the port, families celebrate christenings, while the many permanent widows dressed in black mill around the town talking, drinking sweet Greek coffee and devouring walnut cake.
With some 40 villages around the coast and interior, the island offers a slower pace of life. With many quiet, rugged beaches for swimming, this is definitely worth a day or two for the adventurous traveller in search of the authentic traditional Greek island experience.
Genevieve Carbery was a guest of XL Holidays (0818-333399, www.xl.com ), and the Greek National Tourism Organisation ( www.visitgreece.gr ). XL has a direct service from Dublin to Mykonos every Wednesday between May and October and offers various packages
GO There
You can fly to Mykonos from Athens, Rhodes, Santorini and Herakleion (Crete). It can also be reached by ferry from ports near Athens Piraeus (six hours), Rafina (four hours. There is a fast boat in the summer). There are also ferries from the Dodecanese, Crete, and Thessaloniki, Paros, Naxos, Ios, Santorini, Andros and many others. For more information, visit www.ferries.gr/booking
Where to stay
Kivotos Club Hotel. Ornos Bay, 00-30-22890-24094, www.kivotosclub hotel.gr.
A 10-minute drive from Mykonos town, this boutique five-star hotel is unique, with meandering paths winding around what were once individual villas. Each room has its own outside door and private balcony. However, the antique furniture means the rooms are not as luxurious as other hotels of this class. With five pools, including a saltwater pool, and with the pool bar located just above the hotel's small, private beach, there are plenty of quiet places to curl up in the sun with a book.
Where to eat
Chez Maria's Garden.
27 Kalogera Street, Mykonos town, 00-30-22890-27565. This family-run sophisticated restaurant has a beautiful garden setting with soft lighting. Inside, the restaurant is like a nobleman's dining room. The service is friendly. Specialises in a Greek take on delicious steaks.
Ithaki Seaside Restaurant and Gallery. Ornos Beach, Mykonos town, 00-30-22890-24546. On the beautiful Ornos beach, this is perfect for a romantic meal by the sea. It has hearty Greek food and excellent local fish.
Niko's. Mykonos town, 00-30-22890-24320. This taverna is in a very pretty square behind the main town hall. The restaurant is open-air, but covered, so it's a perfect escape from the sun for a leisurely Greek lunch.
Philippi. Mykonos town, 00-30-22890-22295, www.philippis.gr. This well-established high-end restaurant in the middle of the main town is set in a very pretty garden, perfect for a romantic meal. Service is attentive, food is modern Greek.
Vangelis Taverna. Anó Merá, Mykonos island, 00-30-22890-71577. In the peaceful little square of the inland village of Anó Merá, this taverna is a perfect stop-off after a visit to Panagia Tourliani monastery.
Where to go
The sixth-century Panagia Tourliani monastery. It is located in Mykonos island's only internal settlement, Anó Merá, and is just seven kilometres from the main town, up a windy road.
Delos island - a well-preserved archaeological site and sacred birthplace of Apollo, just a 30-minute boat ride from Mykonos. Boats depart the main town at 9am, 10am and 11am, and return at 12.15pm, 1.30pm and 3pm. The site is closed Mondays. The boat costs €12.50 return, and an entrance ticket is €5.
Kato Myli (The Lower Windmills). This group of 16th-century windmills is on the outskirts of Mykonos town. Great views of the town, ports and sea from here.
Mykonos churches: hundreds of simple votive chapels speckle the island's landscape. Many of them were built by families to remember people who emigrated. Every church has a name-day, when locals gather to eat and celebrate. These are held a few times a week, so watch out for them and get to meet the locals.
Remote beaches: rent a car or hire a taxi and explore the island's remotest beaches. The island only has a shoreline of 80km, but there are many beaches, such as Lia, just 14km from Hora, which are undeveloped and a perfect place to escape the crowds.
Where to drink
Mykonos Bar. Mykonos town, 00-30-22890-23529.
A popular party bar in Little Venice.
Katerina's Bar. Little Venice, Mykonos town, 00-30-22890-23084. Great for sipping cocktails by the sea walls.
Celebrities. Matogianni Street, Mykonos town. This energetic and intense bar is a magnet for the beautiful people.
Blu-Blu. Old Port, Mykonos town, 00-30-22890-28711. With panoramic views of the port, this cafe and bar is perfect for a coffee while waiting for a ferry. There's also an internet cafe next door.
Passo Doble cocktail bar. Matogianni, Mykonos town, 00-30-22890-22876. This friendly bar, in the middle of the town's winding streets, plays great rock and indie.