Go Walk:Ancient churches, wind and sea sculpted rocks, and megalithic tombs are all part of a walk at Glencolumbkille, Co Donegal, says TONY DOHERTY
I’M NOT A frequent visitor to Donegal, so when I do get there I am like the proverbial child in a sweet shop; dashing around getting as many walks as possible in and overextending myself in the first few days as a result.
Last year, when my legs eventually protested that they wished to proceed with more decorum, a low-level walk was in order.
The Glencolumbkille Loops provided a perfect antidote to the difficult terrain of the Bluestacks and Derryveagh Mountains.
The church of St Columba marks the start, not only of the walk but also of a pilgrimage route (Turas Cholm Cille) whose stations include some of the many Christian and pre-Christian monuments in the area.
It is worth picking up the pocket guide to the Turas in one of the local shops as it gives the background to some of the antiquities that you will come across on your route.
The “Tower Loop” heads west from the church past one of the finest examples of a cross-inscribed pillar in the country and then goes along a narrow road which leads up on to the open mountainside at Biofan.
On the way you’ll pass a ruin which, legend has it, is St Columbcille’s church. I had earlier discovered, to my surprise, that there is no evidence that the saint ever visited the area.
A wide track winds uphill through the moorland. Leave the marked way to take a side trip to the signal tower and the cliffs at Glen Head.
The signal tower, dating from the Napoleonic Wars, is an impressive structure and still in a reasonable state of repair. From here you have a great view down into Glencolumbkille and across to Slieve League, whose unremarkable northern slopes give no hint of the ravaged ramparts of its astonishing south face.
The cliffs to the west of the tower are 200m high and give a view northwards to the striking promontory of Sturrall. The sea stacks that surround the headland bear graphic testimony to the onslaught of the wave action which is slowly destroying it. It must be compulsive viewing in a storm and I would love to be here some time when a heavy Atlantic swell is forecast.
When you’ve had your fill of maritime musings retrace your steps back to the looped walk which cuts across the south west spur of Beefan and Garveross Mountain.
I have noticed about looped walk markers that the arrows are only on one side, as if you are expected to go around the way ordained by the route planners. If you decide to be a rebel you don’t get any arrows.
Dropping down the east side of the spur you’ll come to the junction where you have a choice of continuing down to the village on the Tower Loop or heading back up on to the upland via the Drum Loop, which is what I chose to do.
The track up to the communications mast at the top of the hill follows part of Sli Cholmcille, a 65km way-marked route which starts and finishes in Ardara.
Veer off to the right at the mast where a path contours around the hill to bring you to the edge of the plateau, which has the characteristic steep side of a glaciated valley and down which the path zig zags to the road in the townland of Drum.
On your way back down to the village, you’ll pass the 5,000-year-old Mannernamortee Megalithic Tomb which is signposted. The next time I head north I will head straight for Glencolumbkille; the coastline to the north of the tower begs to be explored.
Route Glencolumbkille, Co Donegal
Getting there: take the R263 west from Killybegs. Keep left when you reach the village and then take first right after crossing the bridge. The start and finish of the walk is at St Columba's Church in Glencolumbkille (grid reference 534 849).
Suitability: route is moderate and covers 12km with an ascent of 360m. Compass, map, rain gear are essential.
Time: four hours.
Map: Ordnance Survey Discovery Series sheet 10.
Refreshments: Restaurants, B&Bs, self catering and hostels in Glencolumbkille, gleanncholmcille.ie