Go Walk:Lough Belshade is a jewel among the bare grey granite slabs of the Bluestacks, writes Anne Leonard
THE BLUESTACK Mountains are a rugged mountain range with peaks in excess of 600m and in parts quite remote. This walk offers a rare glimpse of unspoiled landscape.
Lough Belshade, known locally as the Jewel of the Bluestacks, is a beautiful site among the bare grey granite slabs of the central Bluestacks. This route takes you along the very scenic Bluestack Way on to an old bog road and then up along a fault line to the lake.
Before you start, spend a minute taking in the attractive view of Lough Eske below. As you look down you will see the distinctive drumlins, or small rounded hills. At the start of the ice age, glaciers carried fine material down from the Bluestack Mountains, which then moulded and deposited here in the form of small hills that stretch out as far as Donegal Bay.
In the lake you can see a small round island. It is said that the O’Donnells, who ruled Donegal until the Flight of the Earls in 1607, used this island to keep prisoners secure – which makes it a sort of Alcatraz of Donegal. At this time of year, the adjacent forest is full of mosses, bluebells and primroses.
Start up a steep incline with Banagher Hill on the left and the Bluestacks on the right. Walk along this open country looking towards the Eglish Valley. The glacier that carved out the U-shape of the valley followed a major fracture, or fault, in the earth’s crust called the Eglish Fault.
Turn right at the second old bog track and follow the fault line to Lough Belshade. This area is called Lanna Mór. Keeping the height to the left, the fault line goes all the way to Lough Belshade. There are very few tracks in the mountains and navigational skills are needed.
At the end of the track, pause at Lough Nacollum, where at times otters can be seen. The ground underfoot is quite wet, but the scenery over most of this section is breathtaking – the grey slabs of the Bluestacks above, the views over Donegal Bay, the Sligo and Leitrim mountains and the Benbulben plateau beyond it.
Another tabletop mountain which can be seen and is often confused with Benbulben is Cuilcagh Mountain in Co Fermanagh. Looking down the valley you can see St John’s Point, Crownarad, Muckross Head and beyond that Slieve League, said to be the highest sea cliffs in Europe.
Make your way up to the col where you can see the route stretch out in front of you. In this area, one gets a great sense of wilderness – mountains and lakes all around with only ravens to keep you company. On the left stands a wall of granite, to the right Croaghanwore (548m) and Croaghnageer (571m).
At the top of the hill catch your breath as you look down at the lake, an irregular shaped formation surrounded by high cliffs. The name Lough Belshade possibly goes back to 1593, when English raiders took over the abbey in Donegal Town and the friars fled. Legend has it that when they made their way up to the lake a mist descended. They saw a causeway that led them to an island, where they are said to have hidden their treasures before making their way back to the shore.
After a leisurely lunch, head to the stream that flows from Lough Fad. The return journey takes you past four lakes. Following these makes this an easy return route. The bog here contains two types of heather, bell and ling, and is overgrown in places. Plants unique to bogs such as Sphagnum moss, sundew and butterworth are are plentiful.
At the bend in the river, go around spot height 404m, keeping the height to your right. It is important to stay close to this height; if you go lower you will have an even longer walk back. Make for the Brockaghy River and Lough Nacollum. Keep to the left of the lake and walk through a large amount of bilberry bushes. There is a flat area that is very wet, so make your way around it to pick up the track which leads back to the Bluestack Way.
Once again, feast your eyes on the magnificent views as you stroll all the way down to your car.
Lough Belshade, Co Donegal
StartFrom Donegal Town take the N56 for Killybegs. About 500m from the centre of town right turn for Solis Lough Eske Castle. Follow the signs for 3.5km until you reach a crossroads. You will see a sign for the Bluestack Way. Turn left and follow the road for another 3.5km. Turn left at the Eas Dun Lodge B&B and the signpost for the Bluestack Way. This road is quite rough. Drive up 1.5km where there is a wide area below the forest with ample parking.
TimeAllow four hours.
Distance10km.
MapOrdnance Survey Discovery Series sheet 11.
SuitabilityThis is a moderate walk through the hills, most of the route is below 400m. Navigational skills necessary as weather can change quickly in the Bluestacks. Compass, map and rain gear required.
Food and accommodationDonegal Town has an abundance of restaurants. Places to stay include Solis Lough Eske Castle, 074-9725100, Eas Dun Lodge B&B, 074-9722628. For more information, contact the Discover Ireland tourist office in Donegal, 074-9721148.