As our flight took off from San Francisco International Airport and headed west over the Pacific, leaving the great landmass that is North America behind, I couldn't help thinking just how far Hawaii is from anywhere else on Earth. California, its closest neighbour, is almost 4,000km away. For five hours, we continued to fly far above the Pacific, the wild waves of the deepest, widest ocean below, no signs of land anywhere.
Eventually, as the plane began its descent towards the island of Kauai, still all that was visible was water, stretching out for what seemed like infinity. At the very last moment, the island appeared suddenly below, as if emerging from the vast surrounding sea – a craggy, mountainous landform, lush with tropical greenery and glowing with red volcanic rock. We had arrived.
Kauai is an island of extremes: bathed in sunlight, hidden in mist, its beaches are warm and sunny, while its interior is a wet, misty rainforest of mountains and valleys, waterfalls and cliffs. Mount Waialeale at the centre of the island is one of the wettest places on Earth – but you would never suspect it while sunbathing on the white sands of Poipu Beach, a light breeze from the ocean on your face, the palm trees swaying behind you.
Kauai is about as far from Ireland as you can get, and as close to a tropical paradise as you will find. As one of the Hawaiian islands, it is the most remote populated landmass on Earth and, yet, as part of the United States, it has excellent roads and public facilities, wifi when and where you need it, and even McDonald's and Macy's – if you are so inclined.
Before visiting the island, and without realising it, my idea of a tropical paradise was based on the landscapes of Kauai, but it had been an almost mythical, other-worldly vision, one seen in films and TV shows, somewhere so stunningly beautiful that it barely seemed real. Kauai was the setting for films including Jurassic Park, Pirates of the Caribbean, Raiders of the Lost Ark and Avatar – and the lush mountains and valleys, waterfalls and beaches, bays and inlets that featured in those films are all to be found in Kauai. Indeed, many of the stunning landscape scenes from the summer blockbuster Jurassic World were filmed there, so you can explore in real life the tropical wonderland of the film – minus the rampaging genetically modified dinosaurs, of course.
The fourth-largest and the oldest of the Hawaiian islands, Kauai is also one of the least developed, and has a population of only about 67,000. For this reason it is popular with honeymooners, retirees, outdoor adventurers and families with small children – those looking for a less touristy Hawaiian experience than that offered by Honolulu or Big Island. Regulations in Kauai state that no building can be higher than a palm tree and construction is prohibited on all but 4 per cent of the island, while 90 per cent of it has no vehicular access.
One main road curves along the edge of the island, from the most northerly point down around the south coast to the most westerly point accessible by car. Kauai is relatively small, so it is possible to drive from the north coast to the south in about two hours. It is next to impossible to get around without a car as public transport is practically non-existent.
Vast swathes of the interior are unpeopled and accessible only by the most experienced hiker or by air. So helicopter and plane rides are popular with tourists seeking to see hidden parts of the island, such as the waterfall that featured in Jurassic Park.
Kauai is balmy year-round, with a constant light breeze that means it never feels unbearably hot. There are occasional cooling showers during the day, but they are usually a welcome relief. The wettest months are from November to March, but even then it rains only some of the time.
The climate varies, however, depending on where you are on the island. The driest, sunniest parts are in the west and south, while the north is lusher and wetter. For this reason, my partner, four-year-old son and I decided to stay in Poipu, on the south coast. There are several resorts and hotels in this area, as well as plenty of self-catering options all within a short stroll of Poipu Beach, a narrow, quiet stretch of sand.
We stayed in the Sheraton Kauai, which often has good room-only online deals. It is right on the beach, has two swimming pools, a nice restaurant and activities for kids, and activities for adults such as hula-dancing classes and lei-making.
On one afternoon, we drove to Waimea Canyon on the western side of the island. Often described as the “Grand Canyon of the Pacific”, it is 23km long, 1.6km wide and more than 1,000m deep.
As we drove along the narrow, winding Waimea Canyon Drive, we encountered stunning, panoramic views of wide valleys, craggy peaks and deep gorges. The route ended at Kokee State Park, where we managed to elude the frequents mists to catch glimpses of rugged coastal cliffs and the sea stretching out below.
With 70km of trails, Kokee State Park is an excellent starting point for hiking around the canyon or along the Na Pali Coast, which is inaccessible by road. For less-seasoned hikers, a more relaxing way of seeing the Na Pali Coast, its hidden cliffs, bays and beaches, is from the sea. Boat companies offer trips that take visitors around the coastline.
We took a sunset cruise with Kauai Sea Tours, a four-hour trip that included drinks and dinner. Dolphins raced alongside our boat during the sometimes hair-raising ride through the choppy seas, and we were even treated to a surprise sighting of humpback whales emerging from the waters around us in a slow, graceful dance.
On another day, we drove north, and simply kept going until we reached the end of the road. This brought us to the most lush, misty part of the island, with tall craggy outcrops draped in vines and deep emerald-green vegetation.
The further north we travelled, the more narrow the road became and we encountered a series of one-lane bridges. Along the way we passed deep sea caves and remote beaches. When the road finally ended, we found ourselves at Haena State Park, where we watched a spectacular sunset from the long, narrow shore of Kee Beach.
Haena State Park is where the 18km Kalalau Trail along the Na Pali coast begins. While this trail is for the seasoned hiker, there are plenty of other, less strenuous outdoor activities to be enjoyed on the island.
Water activities are popular, from snorkelling and scuba-diving in reefs and caverns to surfing lessons and kayaking tours. For golfers, Kauai has some world-class courses, including Poipu Bay Golf Course and Princeville Makai Golf Club.
A trip to Hawaii wouldn’t be complete without experiencing a luau, the traditional Hawaiian party. We opted for the Smith Family Garden Luau, a family-run institution. It combined a tour of the estate gardens with a banquet featuring a pig roasted underground and a show including hula dancing, traditional songs and even an erupting volcano.
Eating out in Kauai is wonderful experience, with the cuisine infused with Asian, local and western influences. Local fish such as ahi (yellowfin tuna), mahi mahi and ono are a speciality, while poke, a Hawaiian take on sashimi, is not to be missed.
Poi, a greyish paste made from taro plant root, is another famous dish – although a more acquired taste. Local produce such as pineapple and coconut feature strongly on both food and drink menus, with mai tai and pina colada cocktails ubiquitous. For a refreshing treat, try shave ice – a Hawaiian version of a Slush Puppie.
A visit to Kauai doesn’t come cheap. It has an exclusive air and is popular with wealthy Americans. Accommodation is expensive, as is eating out and any of the outdoor activities on offer. But with direct flights to Kauai from San Francisco, Los Angeles, Seattle and San Diego, it is possible to combine a city break in one of the US’s great metropolises with an unforgettable tropical holiday on Kauai, the “Garden Isle” of Hawaii.
How to Hawaii ...
How to get there:
United Airlines flies direct from SFO to Lihue Airport. Flights from €607pp return.
Where to stay:
Sheraton Kauai at Poipu Beach, room-only rates from €148 per night, not including taxes and charges. For self-catering options try vrbo.com or airbnb.com.
Where to eat:
Keoki’s Paradise in Poipu for exceptional seafood; Dolphin Sushi in Hanalei for excellent Hawaiian-style sushi and sashimi.
