Forget the clichéd tourist spots. Former BBC Ireland correspondent, James Helm, has worked his way around the country and shares his favourite 10 locations
AT THE start of each year, we stick a piece of paper to the fridge door. On it are scrawled the places we'd like to visit around Ireland in the months ahead. Some happen, others don't. With small children, it's often a challenge to get out of the front door, never mind beyond the M50.
In this age of global travel, where a long weekend's canoe trip up the Amazon would hardly raise an eyebrow back home, it's too easy to forget what is right on your doorstep. As blow-ins from across the water, we've made a conscious effort to explore, and to get to know some of what is around us. So in six years of living here, by car, train, plane, even by bike, we've clocked up 32 counties and a good deal of happy memories.
At first we were guided by books that were crammed into the car's glove compartment, copies that rapidly became dog-eared: among them the Rough Guide to Ireland, Georgina Campbell's guides and the Hidden Ireland brochure. All were duly consulted. Eric Newby's Round Ireland in Low Gear and McCarthy's Bar by Pete McCarthy also came along for the ride.
Now, we tend to head off with jotted notes of a friend's recommendation of somewhere to see, sleep, eat or drink. We're on our second lap, returning to places we enjoyed first time around, with a few detours for new sights. There are now more of us, so the itinerary is usually much simpler: go, enjoy, return. But the excitement of being in another country, and of having the chance to explore it, still remains.
Boiling it all down to a mere 10 favourite places is mighty tough. A few truly lovely places where we had a great time have missed the final cut. A couple I've gone for may not be everyone's cup of Barry's, and I'm bound to remember somewhere at a later date that escapes me now. What follows, naturally, has some in-built bias. I love being beside the sea so there is a coastal tilt. And because we have a gaggle of small children, some things are easier to enjoy, while other places are more avoidable. In years to come I may well be able to bask in spas or luxury retreats, or spend time peering at art, but not now.
It's only right and respectful to kick off with the capital, partly as it's where we live. We regularly play host to weekenders, and in the past month or two we've had friends over from England and Australia. They keenly wave their Dublin travel guides, mention Temple Bar, and ask for a full day's tourist itinerary, "the places we have to see". We scratch our heads.
For me - and hear me out on this - Dublin is not one of those capital cities where there are lots of must-do sights that require ticking off. The big, grand stuff that you feel you simply have to get up early to see and photograph. When visitors come, we struggle to think of "sights".
And that's partly why I like it. It's easier to relax if you don't feel as if you're missing out on whole pages of "must-do" visitor attractions. In and around Dublin, if you go looking for it, make an effort, head up or down the coast by Dart, or get away from the crowds of Grafton Street and Temple Bar, then you'll be richly rewarded. Anyway, part of coming here is to imbibe the atmosphere. Or sometimes just to imbibe, but we'll leave the "10 favourite pubs" list for another time.
So starting my personal favourites, which is in absolutely no order of priority, is Dún Laoghaire on a Sunday afternoon. The friend from Sydney who came over last month agreed it was "not exactly Bondi", but was enthralled by it anyway. The colours change constantly, and you can stand and watch the weather sweep in from the east. Even when the sea and the sky blend together in gun-metal grey, the view across to Howth and Poolbeg is dramatic.
The day of the week is key. On Sundays I love the chatter of dozens of strollers along the pier, families out enjoying the air and the exercise. Then, depending on the mood, we might walk along to the 40 Foot, or cross the road to the People's Park. We might bump into someone we know, we might buy something for tea from the market stalls, and we'll definitely go to the playground. Before heading off, we'll have a cup of tea and a bit of cake from the cafe. Bliss.
My other Dublin pick - and there could easily have been 10 from the city alone - is Phoenix Park, Dublin's green lungs. I reported for the BBC on the European Union's enlargement on May 1st, 2004, so got to see Farmleigh and Áras an Uachtaráin at their very best in sparkling sunshine. We've been to the zoo often enough for the animals to recognise us. I've done painful "fun" runs around the park's perimeter, and we've been back to Farmleigh for Christmas and summer markets. It's a wonderful urban resource.
As cities go, Belfast just edged it ahead of Cork, Galway and Limerick. The reborn Belfast has a great buzz and bags of energy. Work regularly brought me up there for more than five years, not always for the best of reasons. Just over a year ago I presented a live programme for the BBC from the Waterfront Hall, and marvelled at the clear view across the city as thick winter fog lifted. There's a metaphor in there somewhere.
The food, the architecture, the natural setting: if you've not been for a while, then it's worth another look. The Ulster Folk Museum nearby is excellent. If you have children, then the world-class W5 museum at the Odyssey is worth at least half a day.
Heading north, the Antrim coast was a wonderful surprise, and definitely worth its place on the list. I work with a cameraman from Ballycastle who long extolled the virtues of his home area. Eventually we went and struck lucky with a perfect weekend of unbroken sunshine. We got to see boat races from the little harbour in Carnlough. I joined in the late-night sing-song around the piano at the Londonderry Arms in Carnlough, which hopefully didn't spoil the trips of other guests, but the highlight was the coastal drive from Glenarm up to, and beyond, Cushendun.
My favourite Irish beach is Inch in Co Kerry. The last time we went the sky was cloudless, and the scenery was breathtaking. I know a few people got there before us - David Lean and Robert Mitchum among them - but for me, once the sun peeps through to illuminate the view, that combination of sea, sand and mountains is perfect.
It has a rival though: the vista of Clew Bay from Croagh Patrick, Co Mayo. We've not yet made it to the summit - it's hard enough without carrying little ones - but the view is the main pull for us, and you can get that after only a couple of hundred feet of a scrambling climb. Again, the effect of sunlight on the water is sensational. Friends have twice let us stay at their apartment in Westport, which is my favourite town in the west, narrowly ahead of Ennis. It's managed to maintain its character in the face of the tourist onslaught, and has so much within easy reach, such as the glorious beaches along the coast at Bertra and Old Head.
Cork gets two entries, from the east and west of the county. I like east Cork partly because it's not west Cork. It's low-key, there are fewer visitors, and it doesn't produce wistful smiles from everyone who speaks its name. But it's lovely all the same. We stayed near Ballycotton, had a few dips in the sea on warm days, took a trip along to Fota and to Kinsale, and dined at Ballymaloe.
Of the many possible inclusions from west Cork, I'm going for Baltimore. The ferry trip and day out over on Sherkin Island, with blackberry-picking on the way, and a proper beach picnic with sand in our sandwiches, were memorable. So too were the fish and chips in Baltimore itself, and the early evening spent gazing out to sea from a pub terrace, surrounded by seafaring types, red-faced after a sunny day on the water.
Carlow doesn't make it into many "top 10s", and that's partly why I like it (the same applies to Leitrim). The chunk I'm fond of is the southerly wedge down towards Wexford and Kilkenny, which is pretty, unspoilt and under-stated. We stayed at the Lorum Old Rectory, not far from Bagenalstown, enjoyed a walk and picnic on Mount Leinster, and wandered by the weir in Graiguenamanagh. Not far away, across the county border, Inistioge is also a picturesque favourite that we have wandered around and enjoyed several times.
Finally, and risking the wrath of the legions of Donegal devotees (see note, below), is a corner of Sligo, the part that is overshadowed by the stately bulk of Benbulbin. I've been a couple of times, and loved Lissadell House, the sands at Rosses Point and Streedagh Strand, and the alpine feel up at Lough Gill.
There is much left to cover, and much that warrants a return trip. For a long time we've been revving up for a visit to that enduring icon, Kelly's of Rosslare.
We're due a return to Connemara soon, and Donegal is a must-go in 2008. Ireland awaits, and the Post-it on the fridge door is already full.
Where to stay, what to eat
Dún Laoghaire
Get the Dart as you can jump off right by the sea and the park, and finding a parking spot on a Sunday can be tough. Ice creams at Teddy's are a must, even if it's not ice cream weather. There are plenty of places to eat and drink: Itsa Bagel is there, as is the lively Cafe Mao, and there's an Insomnia coffee shop inside the Meadows and Byrne store - all overlooking the harbour from the Pavilion.
Phoenix Park
If it's not the weather for a picnic, then there are plenty of options nearby. A big lunch at Nancy Hands on Parkgate Street will set you on your way, and Ryan's of Parkgate Street is, as the name suggests, close by. And Dublin Zoo (www.dublinzoo.ie) has a few places to tuck in.
Belfast
The Crown Liquor Saloon at 46 Great Victoria Street draws the tourists and is a special place. But also poke your nose into the John Hewitt (www.thejohnhewitt.com) for great music and bags of charm at 51 Donegall Street. There are lots of great places to eat. I've been lucky enough to have had some good lunches at Deane's Deli, 44 Bedford Street.
Antrim coast
The old, characterful Londonderry Arms in Carnlough (www.glensofantrim.com) was our self-contained base for exploring the area, although Ballycastle, further up the coast, has plenty of choice for eating and drinking. Up into the Glens of Antrim we had a good walk and lunch and great views at Glenariff Forest Park.
Inch, Co Kerry
No great distance away from the beaches in Kerry we stayed at Carrig Country House, Caragh Lake (www.carrighouse.com), and dined in its lovely restaurant. In Dingle, the seafood at Out of the Blue (www.outoftheblue.ie) was out of the ordinary. We've also built up favourite places to stop and to stay on long journeys to the west. For example, the wonderful Roundwood House in Mountrath, Co Laois (www.roundwoodhouse.com), is worth a weekend in itself. Closer to Kerry from Dublin is the Dunraven Arms (www.dunravenhotel.com) in Adare, Co Limerick.
Westport
We've self-catered at Harbour Mill (www.theharbourmill.com), just out of town, and it was perfect, with lots of places to eat and drink close by, such as Quay Cottage Restaurant, and Lemon Peel@The Asgard. There's even the Helm Bar (no relation). In town, Matt Molloy's pub is legendary, and I also liked Walsh's bar.
East Cork
We stayed with a big group in great self-catering accommodation at Ballymaloe (www.ballymaloe.com), which gave us room to spread out and gardens to explore, as well as being handy for the restaurant itself.
Baltimore
Bushe's Bar on the square (www.bushesbar.com) has bags of atmosphere, plus a view of the maritime goings-on. There's a great selection of places to dine in the town, and last time we were there we bought superb fresh fish from a caravan in the harbour.
Carlow
We stayed at the Lorum Old Rectory (www.lorum.com) on a friend's recommendation and it was excellent, with lambs nearby in springtime, and plenty of grass for the children to run around on.
Sligo
On one trip here I stayed at Coopershill House at Riverstown, Co Sligo, and loved the country house atmosphere and the setting (www.coopershill.com). The tea shop at Drumcliff Church, the site of Yeats's grave, is a good place to ponder (and to eat nice cakes). Thanks to Georgina Campbell's guide to Ireland (www.ireland-guide.com) for jogging my memory.