Phnom Penh is rapidly throwing off its troubled past to become the new jewel in south-east Asia, writes Fergal Quinn
THE ELEPHANT that still ambles its way up Sisowath Quay every evening from Wat Phnom towards his quarters in the south side of Phnom Penh must be wondering what hit him.
In his 40-odd years, Sam Bo has seen the tail end of the era of Sihanouk, the playboy king, when the likes of Jackie Onassis frolicked in what was then considered the jewel of southeast Asia. He was likely put to work in the countryside during the Khmer Rouge years, when the city was emptied of its inhabitants, so many of whom never returned.
Twenty years in the doldrums followed when Sam Bo's ample girth could still make its way unmolested through the streets.
But now he must negotiate his way alongside the innumerable SUVs, the symbols of the kleptocratic elite here, passing swanky cafes and shops among the whines of Vespas, Daelims and Honda motorbikes.
Whisper it, but Phnom Penh may have finally cast aside at least some of the ghosts that haunt her.
Outside of the ever-present backpackers, the tourists that once came here mostly for thrills, ganja and cheap sex are now flocking in ever larger numbers to a place brimming with chic restaurants and shops and an increasing number of ways to while away the time.
With buildings springing up like mushrooms all over, and the vestiges of the city's past colonial charm being lovingly restored, it's an exciting time to visit.
Far more intimate than Bangkok, and less hectic and claustrophobic than Saigon, Phnom Penh is a city in flux.
There remains an underlying edge to the place, with dirt roads and appalling poverty and its various side-effects never too far away even in the compact city centre. But Phnom Penh's wide tree-lined boulevards, bustling markets and growing art scene make it well worth more than the two-day stopover many give it to see the horrors of the former torture centre at Tuol Sleng or the Choeung Ek killing fields while on the way to Siem Reap and Angkor Wat.
Aside from the city's most famous markets - the Art Deco Psar Thmei and the Russian market - there is some great shopping along Street 240, with the likes of Jasmine boutique and Kampuja offering stylish women's clothes, and Bliss which is piled high with stunning cottons, silks and linens. Be warned they don't come cheap. Nearby are specialist wine, chocolate and costume jewellery shops which cater for the large expat community and the well-heeled Khmers.
On Street 178 you'll find the ever improving art shops across from the National Museum. Further up you will find the gorgeous high-end Ambre boutique and the newly opened prints and furniture shop of Em Riem, the French-educated designer.
For those on a budget, there are great fabrics to be had on the cheap around Psar O'Russei in the Chinese-dominated quarter, while you can get the shoes of your dreams designed personally for $20 (€13.63) in Beautiful Shoes near the Russian market. Or go to Sorya Market, or Paragon, the city's newest super mall, and watch the emerging middle class here as they shop till they drop.
Culturally, the Khmers have traditionally punched above their weight in this region, and the likes of Metahouse, Java, Reyum and Sala galleries are helping a new generation of local artists find their feet again among the more traditional crafts, the best of which are on display in the National Museum in the city.
In terms of performance, while music, aside from the ubiquitous Khmer love ballads that blare from every corner at night, is thin on the ground, Sovanna Phum theatre is a great place to go for quality displays of shadow puppetry and traditional Khmer theatre.
One can also take a break from the sun and dust with a traditional massage at Aziadee on Street 282 or Senses on the Riverside.
Aside from numerous excellent Indian, French, Italian, Vietnamese, Chinese, Japanese and Thai restaurants, Khmer cuisine is also starting to find its feet internationally. Once, the only food worth writing about concerned the deep-fried tarantulas or paddy-rat stew that people developed a lingering taste for when the Khmer Rouge were starving them to death.
But now gourmands the world over are waxing lyrical about Khmer cuisine's subtle flavours, and its delicate balance of sweet, sour, salty and bitter across a range of dishes. But what really enchants about Phnom Penh, when you give it a proper chance, is the way the timeless and traditional meets the modern.
Saffron cloaked Buddhist monks abound in the city centre, while the new generation of hipsters are making themselves known, in particular along Street 19.
Much of the river-front is being renovated so that some of the views of where the Tonlé Sap meets the Mekong are obscured, but the upper, and most pleasant part of Sisowath, is still untouched.
Take a trip by cyclo past Chaktamouk theatre and the Royal Palace to where Sihanouk Boulevard leads up to the recently refurbished Independence monument.
The great master of new Khmer architecture, Vann Molyvann, has lived to see many of his buildings torn down, but this monument is a striking centre for the city and a fitting tribute to his brilliance.
The view from Sisowath at night, especially when the trees are bedecked with fairy lights, is stunning.
Phnom Penh heaves with a bewildering array of festivals too, as Chinese New Year, the King's birthday, the Water Festival, Khmer New Year, Independence Day, Victory over the Genocidal Regime Day come in quick succession and are celebrated with abandon.
Phnom Penh is one city that's earned its moment in the sun. Catch it as it starts to makes the most of it.
The best way to get to Phnom Penh is via Kuala Lumpur or Bangkok. Use Air Asia (www.airasia.com), the region's first budget airline, for the last leg. Joe Walsh Tours (01-2410800) in Dublin generally have good deals for southeast Asia, while Gohop.ie is another decent bet for the first leg. Be prepared to pay significantly more if you go during tourist high season, which is from from December to February.
Other places to see in Cambodia:
Angkor Wat
The Angkor Wat temples in Siem Reap (below) in north west Cambodia. Banteay Srei is one of the best preserved of the temples believed to date back to the 10th century. Siem Reap has developed at a huge rate in the last five years with an excellent range of hotels and restaurants. There are daily flights to Siem Reap from Phnom Penh.
Sihanoukville
The exquisite white sand beaches of Sihanoukville on the southern coast looking out across the Gulf of Thailand, a true panacea for the weary traveller.
The local infrastructure is gradually changing, with accommodation and facilities beginning to improve. The resort is easily reached from Phnom Penh.
Yeak Loam Crater Lake
In Ban Lung in the wild north east. This jade green lake, reputedly 80 metres deep, is surrounded by forest.
Go do:
Snap upGet a range of photos taken in traditional Khmer style outfits, at one of numerous studios along Charles De Gaulle Boulevard.
Cook up
Take a one-day cookery class, which includes being brought around to some of the amazing food markets. Frizz café on the riverfront do decent ones (www.Frizz-restaurant.com).
Drink up
Excellent cafes are springing up all over. Fresco on the riverside does a mean mocha, and Java café by the Independence monument have the best milkshakes in town. The Shop on Street 240 is a dinky little place for lunch and has great coffee too.
Sun up
Sunrise at the Vann Molyvann designed Olympic stadium is a sight to behold. Hundreds of the city's inhabitants come here to practice Tai Chi along the top of it and it's well worth the early rise. Watching the sunset over the temples is also a must.
Look up
While zoos in developing countries are, in general, best avoided, Phnom Tamao wildlife park, about 40 minutes out of town, is a home for the incredible array of indigenous wildlife, from sun-bears to elephants and gibbons, that have been rescued from traffickers or poachers' traps. Go with Betelnut tours based in the Green gecko café for the full experience (call Barb on 012619924).
Kick up
Khmer kickboxing is a perfect marriage of grace and brutality. Find a decent moto driver to go along with you. The elaborate musical and dancing introductions and the quality of the bouts make this one of the best experiences in Cambodia.
Go do: Snap upGet a range of photos taken in traditional Khmer style outfits, at one of numerous studios along Charles De Gaulle Boulevard.
While international restaurants abound, check out the fast-rising Khmer food. Mali's and Romdeng (for a good deal cheaper) offer modern twists on Khmer cuisine in elegant settings. For those on a tighter budget Sweet Café on Street 294 is excellent, while Boat Noodle on the same street has plenty of atmosphere.
For a really good beer garden experience, minus the karaoke girls, the 55 Beer garden and Khmer barbeque is on Street 178 just west of Norodom.
Wise up
Be careful who you give your money to. There are lots of heart-breaking stories which gravitate around the riverside area, but unless you are giving to a reputable organisation, the chances are it won't end up where you thought. Street food, though improving all the time, requires a tougher constitution than most casual visitors here have. Don't go anywhere without a map. Tuk-tuk drivers and moto drivers will need directing.
Go out
Kick off at Street 278. Equinox and Liquid bar are notable recent additions.
They're liveliest at weekends along with Pontoon, moored on the river, while Cantina is probably the pick of the riverside bars. Make the most of Raffles' Elephant Bar and the Foreign Correspondents Club during happy hours.
For those looking for something edgier Street 51 can be lively, with Howies Bar aperfect late-night boozer.
Snowie's Bar across the river is the best place to watch the sun go down on the city.
Go stay
Top end is Raffles Hotel Le Royal, a classy affair from top to bottom. For a good deal cheaper try the elegant Pavillion hotel on Street 19, though you will need to book your room well in advance.
For the $20 (€13.63) per night range, the Boddhi Tree range of guesthouses are a good option.