FERGAL MACERLEAN sets off on a 200km cycle around the Hebrides, whose stunning beaches, diverse scenery and Gaelic culture make up a unique and resolutely independent part of Scotland
THE HEBRIDEAN archipelago, strung out like a giant backbone in the Atlantic, is a dream location for a cycle tour. A 200km trip will take you on relatively quiet roads, from tip to top, past stunningly beautiful beaches and diverse scenery that gives each island a distinct appeal. Throw in the vibrant Gaelic culture and you’ll leave having experienced a unique and resolutely independent part of Scotland.
A glorious May day saw me sailing away midweek from the west-coast town of Oban with a pounding head; the night before, a friend from the Outer Hebridean Isle of Barra who now lives in the town had prepared for my impending trip to his island with some Hebridean firewater. Squinting through shades, I managed to enjoy the departure past Lismore before retiring below deck.
Five and a half hours later I was enjoying the distinct ambience of Barra’s Castlebay Bar: a one-eyed drunk heckled an unflappable PE teacher from Nova Scotia while a ball-obsessed collie clung to the pool table.
Gales struck the following morning, and the day’s cycling itinerary was limited to an exploration of Vatersay, linked to Barra since 1990 by a causeway, one of many on the islands. After a steep climb you follow easier ground past the aquamarine waters of Bágh Bhatarsaigh. The distinctive outline of the island of Rhum, one of the Inner Hebrides, was visible on the horizon, across Little Minch channel.
Directly opposite, across coarse machair grass, is Bágh Siar, with its broad sweep of pristine silvery sand. A memorial to the loss of 350 would-be emigrants buried here after their ship, en route to Quebec from Liverpool, sank in 1853, adds poignancy.
On the Barra side of the causeway lie the remains of a Neolithic working site, Iron Age wheelhouse and an 18th- century black house – or traditional cottage – detailed in Castlebay to Caolis, a guide available from Castlebay’s heritage centre. The Stone Age relics recovered show these early peoples traded with communities in Rhum, Antrim and possibly even Orkney.
That evening, back in the Castlebay Bar, The Vatersay Boys are in their corner after a tour to Glasgow. They have already played on the ferry but are more than ready for a session, and they treat the packed pub to a night of colliding pipe and accordion melodies backed by a snare drum. Ex-military Yanks, drunken punk Aussies, silver-haired camper-vanners and a clutch of locals, young and old, all mingle and blether – Barra lives up to its name as a party island.
Predominantly Catholic, but not sectarian, the 1,200 islanders are quick to make fun of some of their dourer Presbyterian neighbours to the north. Many speak fondly of the licentious, and headline-generating, Fr Roddy MacNeil, aka Fr Flash; it’s even suggested he’s still on the island . . . in an attic. Another island story, alleged to be true but never documented, is that Éamon de Valera sailed two navy ships into Castlebay in the late 1940s to meet Macneil of Barra, a clan chief, with a view to buying the island.
On my final day on Barra I set off up the west coast into the teeth of a force-six wind – gusting eight – before stopping at the Isle of Barra Hotel. Outside the waves were flushed white and the marram grass was doing a tango. A friendly voice at the bar told me I should have started my journey from Lewis, as “it was all downhill”, and that the northerly wind was to intensify over the following days. Great.
Sheltering my optimism tightly under my jacket, I pushed on, veering east eventually to more sheltered ground. Barra is a joy to cycle on, I knew from a previous trip, and all ages can enjoy its 19km circuit. This time I was headed to Ardmore, in the north, to catch the Eriskay ferry. The pleasant 40-minute crossing revealed the golden sands of Barra’s Tráigh Mhor, where aircraft land right on the sand.
Swooping down into Eriskay, I came to Am Baile, the island’s main settlement, and the pub Am Politician, named after a ship that sank nearby with a famous cargo, inspiring the book and film Whisky Galore!
I pitched my tent by several camper vans and found that another crazed collie had befriended me. The wind dropped and the evening sun blazed through the tent door. This was more like it.
At midnight the wind returned, peppered with heavy rain. The dog, which was on sentry duty, was let into the porch and, as the weather worsened, into the tent. She curled up for a couple of hours before being evicted.
Morning dawned with rain, so I made good use of my time, drinking coffee and reading the paper. Lunchtime came with little change. Midafternoon finally saw off the rain, so I made my move, charging off from the dog while she was busy stone hunting. I crossed the long Eriskay causeway – an unusual experience, having the sea on both sides – to South Uist.
The road that crosses the Uists is predominantly flat, and I was looking forward to an easy cycle. But the wind was out to shatter my hopes. Half an hour in I was becoming disconsolate; then the wind direction veered around in my favour. From then on I cruised cheerily past colourful croft houses and lochans that alternated with the clouds between navy and bright blue. I waved to passing cyclists, who frowned at my good fortune.
The plan on Uist originally was to visit Loch Druidibeg National Nature Reserve, but with the wind on my side I pressed on through Benbecula, which is part loch, part lagoon and part land, and on to North Uist. Again the wind dictated my plans: I avoided the sandy coastline to the west for an easier run up and over the bog to a hostel in Lochmaddy.
The strong northerlies were back the next day, but the sun shone, so I continued slowly, enjoying the bright Hebridean light, which can magically transform scenes. On the causeway to the uninhabited island of Berneray the sea was emerald green and, according to a sign, full of otters.
I took my last interisland ferry ride, to Harris, arriving in a calm Leverburgh an hour later. The village was originally named An t-Ob, meaning “bay”, from the Norse hóp. It was renamed Leverburgh in 1920, after the soap tycoon Lord Leverhulme bought the South Harris estate. Some 250 people live in the village today.
The population of the Outer Hebrides, or Western Isles, as a whole is about 25,000, with a long-term forecast for a decline. There are good indications for this Gaelic stronghold, however: in the last census more than 70 per cent of the residents said they had some Gaelic, a fact helped by the council’s policy on the language and the provision across Scotland of Gaelic primary schools.
Cycling up and out of Leverburgh, I rounded a corner to suddenly experience Harris “gold coast” in evening sunshine. Golfers played against a magnificent backdrop of the Atlantic complemented by Scarista Beach and the conical hill of Ceapabhal.
Next day the sea and beach views, incredibly, got better as I cycled what must be one of the world’s most stunning stretches of road. From Losgaintir Beach the road climbed steadily inland through a rocky, forlorn but beautiful landscape before a roller-coaster ride to the well-provisioned town of Tarbet. I ate lunch in the sun, putting off the 190m climb around the corner between An Cliseam and Sgaoth Aird.
Pushing uphill, I was able to appreciate the cliffs of Geodhan Dubh – in contrast to the car drivers who race to Stornoway on this good road. A sensational drop to Loch Shíphoirt followed before a monotonous series of long rises that run all the way to the capital of Lewis. A land-struggle memorial by the road is a reminder of the islanders’ resistance, inspired by Michael Davitt. Stornoway, cloaked in soft evening light and greenery, was full of music, boy racers and comings and goings in the harbour.
I spent my final day on the islands cycling over a long, lonely but easy stretch of bog to Carloway, on the west coast. From there I headed south to visit the famous Callanish stones, which look as good as the day they were placed there, 3,000 or 4,000 years ago. The tallest stone is almost five metres high and weighs about five tonnes.
Five days after leaving Barra I boarded my final Caledonian MacBrayne ferry, in the company of several other cyclists also sad to leave. We arrived to a sun-blazed Ullapool before making our separate ways towards Inverness, some on the Highland Cycle Bus. We all vowed we’d return soon – when the wind was blowing the right way.
Go there
No airline flies from Ireland to the Hebrides. Flybe (www.flybe.com) connects Glasgow Airport to Barra. Aer Lingus (www.aerlingus. com) flies to Glasgow Airport from Dublin. Ryanair (www. ryanair.com) flies from Dublin, Shannon, Belfast and Derry to Glasgow Prestwick Airport. Stena Line (www.stena line.ie) sails from Belfast to Stranraer. PO Irish Sea (www. poirishsea.com) sails from Larne to Cairnryan and Troon. Trains from Glasgow (www.scotrail.co.uk) link with Calmac ferries (www.calmac.co.uk) from Oban to Barra.
Where to stay, where to eat and where to go in the Hebrides
Where to stay
Kilchrenan House. Corran Esplanade, Oban, 00-44-1631-562663, www.kilchrenanhouse.co.uk. In Oban, the departure point for the Hebrides, this guest house is a gem. You can be sure of a warm welcome from owners Colin and Frances Davren – and of excellent views of Oban Bay. The price, at between €37 and €49pp, is rather attractive, too.
I mainly camped on the islands, which was great for the freedom it gave. The Hebrides have few formal campsites; instead, areas are set aside for campers. Ask locally for advice. And, thanks to Scotland’s excellent access laws, one can generally camp wild, with some commonsense restrictions. See www.outdooraccess-scotland.com.
Castlebay Hotel. Castlebay, Isle of Barra, 00-44-1871- 810223, www.castlebay-hotel. co.uk. If you don’t fancy lugging a tent around with you and want to stay in the centre of the action on Barra, then the Castlebay Hotel is the spot. A twin or double room with a fine view over the bay and Kisimul Castle costs from €109.
Howmore Hostel. Howmore, South Uist, www.gatliff.co.uk. On the islands, a unique accommodation option is to stay in a renovated traditional black house. The Gatliff Trust runs four of these rustic youth hostels. For the princely sum of €11 you can bed down in your sleeping bag in some very appealing locations. No advance bookings are accepted, but it is unlikely that travellers will find themselves without a bed for the night.
The Ceilidh Place. 18 West Argyle Street, Ullapool, 00-44-1854-612103, www.ceilidhplace.com. Back on the mainland, if you’ve energy left for a shindig, then this hotel is recommended. As well as hosting musical events, it serves excellent food in a relaxing atmosphere – and has a good bookshop to boot. Each room comes stocked with books carefully selected by Scottish authors.
Where to eat
Ee-usk. North Pier, Oban, 00-44-1631-565666, www.eeusk.com. Start your trip in style with a meal in Oban’s award-winning seafood restaurant. On the harbour’s edge, Ee-usk combines an inviting sleek look with divine langoustines and halibut at very reasonable prices.
Polochar Inn. Polochar, Lochboisdale, South Uist, 00-44-1878-700215, www.polocharinn.com. Your first stop on South Uist should be the Polochar Inn. It was once a change house – a place where one could wait for the ferry when travelling between South Uist and Eoligarry on Barra. Enjoy great seafood in the airy restaurant and memorable sea views.
Lobster Pot. 5a Borve, Berneray, North Uist, 00-44-1876-540288, www.isleofberneray.com. During the summer months, on the small island of Berneray, you’ll find this tea room by the shop at Ardmaree. It can get busy, but that’s because of the excellent soup and snacks it serves. Guaranteed to put fire in your belly before venturing on to Harris.
Up in Stornoway, you’ve got to try Stornoway black pudding. The hearty pud is an ideal fuel for cyclists, and it’s tasty, too. In its home town you won’t need to worry about poor imitations, although local politicians have begun a campaign to give the blood-rich food European designation after sausage-shaped impostors appeared on the mainland.
The aforementioned Ceilidh Place hotel serves some of the freshest, most wholesome food in Ullapool. The chef describes the menu (lunch and dinner) as being “a living thing”. One thing’s for sure: it’ll revitalise your saddle-worn body.
Where to go
Kisimul Castle. Castlebay, Barra, 00-44-1871-810313, www.historic-scotland.gov.uk. Kisimul Castle just begs to be visited. Almost totally covering the small island it’s built on, it dominates Castlebay. It’s a striking sight as the ferry pulls in after a six-hour trip. The medieval castle, seat of the Clan Macneil, is managed by Historic Scotland.
Barra Airport. Eoligarry, Isle of Barra, 00-44-1871-890212, www.hial.co.uk. This is about as far removed from your average airport as you could hope to find. Okay, so the airport itself only has a run-of-the-mill cafe, but outside lie hectares and hectares of pristine sand: the runway.
Tráigh Niosabiost. By Horgabost, Harris. If beaches are your thing, then you’re spoiled for choice in the Hebrides. That said, the “gold coast” on the west coast of Harris is especially remarkable. Untouched golden beach after golden beach stretches out to be kissed by the Atlantic.
Calanais Standing Stones. By Calanais, Lewis, 00-44-1851-621422, www.historic-scotland.gov.uk. Perhaps something of a cliche, the Callanish stones are nevertheless highly recommended. Standing among these massive monoliths is an experience that gives an insight into our ancestors. There are also two other, less-frequented sites within walking distance.
Find out more
For more about ferries, cycling the islands and a mainland bike-carrying coach service, contact, respectively, Calmac (00-44-1475-650100, www.calmac.co.uk), Cycle Hebrides (00-44-845-2255121, www.cyclehebrides.com) and Tim Dearman Coaches (00-44-1349-883585, www.timdearmancoaches. co.uk).