Go New Zealand: Touring around New Zealand in the back of a van was not quite the comfortable adventure Leonie Corcoranwas expecting, but the scenery more than made up for cold nights and petrol prices
‘It’s the only way to travel,” people said. “It is all about the adventure,” they went on. “Not to mention the freedom, it’s just so . . .” “Free?,” I asked naively. Well, free it wasn’t, in the economical sense anyway.
My ideas of blissfully criss-crossing New Zealand in my commanding campervan, and spending very little money for being so “adventurous” took a harsh reality check as I handed over a wad of cash for a converted Hiace van. True, there was funky graffiti on the side – “The art of living is more like wrestling than dancing” – and even a giggle-worthy translation of the eighth of the 10 Commandments – “Thou shalt not steal, God is looking” – but a clapped-out Hiace van that not only ran on petrol, but was also automatic (not very economical, or green for that matter) was not what I had expected.
In the back of the van was an ice box, three skinny mattresses (it was, I boast, a three-berth van for only two of us. At a towering five feet two inches I still wonder how three strapping men could possible fit into it. We, as two not particularly big girls, were more than cosy), plastic cutlery and dingy, drooping curtains. It was a far cry from my image of a sparkling, white campervan with a shower, hobbit-sized kitchen, fridge and toilet. In reality, it was more akin to one of the green horse-drawn “wanderly wagons” that you find on Irish country roads in the summer, and I was still getting over it as we pulled in for what would be the first of many petrol/toilet stops.
I thought a trip to the southern hemisphere during the European winter would mean getting a sun-kissed driving arm, while vistas of snow-capped mountains rolled by, casting welcome shadows over the many sheep eager for shade as they grazed the rolling, green plains; I envisaged acres of vineyards and generations of future All Blacks stretching their muscles on roadside pitches. I saw us pulling in, enjoying the, ahem, scenery and whipping up gourmet lunches of fresh produce from our Aladdin’s cave of a kitchen.
The harsh reality of Bessie the Hiace, inches of “unseasonal” rain, vineyards shrouded by cloud and howling winds cancelling my whale watching trips, were more than I had bargained for. Not a single rugby match sweetened the deal – apparently it’s all about cricket at this time of year. There were sheep alright, 40 million of them (to the 4.2 million people), but instead of basking in the sun they were shivering in their freshly sheared coats as we trundled past at 80km/hr (note that travelling above this speed does not pay when it comes to visiting the petrol pump).
However, not to be put off and seeing as the deposit was paid, we invested in a detailed road map and negotiated our way out of Auckland with as much grace as we could muster, after figuring out that rip off Ireland has stiff competition in the southern hemisphere. Then it was on to map reading and picking a few places that we just “couldn’t miss” on our road trip around both the North and South Islands. Although traversing both islands might seem a little like hard work, road choices are limited as most of the roads you’ll pass are labelled “No exit”. And they are not joking. What looks like a reasonably sized road that “will surely” link to the other road you want, will quickly turn into a gravel path that eventually finishes in someone’s front yard. However, if you are sure you are on the right road, don’t be alarmed if it does turn to gravel – a lot of them do before inexplicably returning to a tarmac surface.
Another point about the maps – the size that town names are afforded bears little relation to how big the town actually is. Many a time we gaily drove past a group of three houses only to realise 30 kilometres later that those houses were the “town” we had planned to stay in that night. And it is at times like that, as the fuel gauge dips alarmingly, that Bessie came into her own.
When you are driving your house around, you can, literally, set up home anywhere. Department of Conservation (DOC) campsites/parking spots dot the roadside and although they lack the luxury of a paid holiday park – where you will pay about €7 per person for an unpowered parking site, use of their barbecue, kitchen facilities, showers and toilets – they have toilets and are tucked in off the road. Look out for sites on the coast, where pesky biting sandflies aren’t as bad as on forest edges and where you really can catch your dinner in the chilly water. For such stops, however, invest in a battery-powered light and a good torch. The idea of sitting out the back of your van, sipping local wine while enjoying the sunset and the gourmet dinners is attractive. But it quickly loses the romance when the sun dips at 9.30pm, the wind picks up, again, and the clouds are masking the impressive stars. Again.
Make sure you have that light, a pack of cards and a very good friend. Then slide the van doors closed and cosy down, remembering, when your bladder inevitably wakes you in the dead of night, that it’s all about the adventure.
Where to go, stay and see
One of New Zealand’s most impressive services are i-Sites, well sign-posted tourist offices that can be found in every one-horse town. Staff are helpful and efficient and will book any accommodation or activity for you free of charge. Remember that they close most days at 5-6pm and most hotels, motels and campsites also close their check-in desks at 8pm.
Campsites and holiday parks are plentiful throughout the islands. Standards vary but drive through them for a look before deciding. Hotels, BBs and homestays are also popular. The latter are a good way to meet locals.
North Island
A 35-minute ferry trip from Auckland brings you to Waiheke Island, home to boho artists and hippies as well as millionaires and boutique vineyards. The Fullers Vineyard tour departs Auckland on the 11am ferry and a minibus brings you to three of the island’s vineyards, where you can enjoy the views, a platter lunch and plenty of tasting of the island’s Bordeaux reds, Syrahs and rosés. Emphasis is on quality rather that quantity and hosts at the vineyards are generous with both time and pouring.
ROTORUA
Rotorua can’t help but impress with its spurting geysers, bubbling mud pools and steaming springs. The sulphurous air takes time to get used to – close to the city limits you get the distinctive smell of rotten eggs – but its natural wonders and wealth of Maori culture and history make it worth holding your breath for.
Visit the Polynesian Spa (polynesianspa.co.nz, from €10) to soak in mineral-rich, outdoor thermal pools. Go after sunset for a quieter, more atmospheric experience.
At the 18-hole Rotorua Golf Club (rotoruagolfclub.co.nz) natural bubbling mud pools and steaming water are your hazards.
Te Puia (tepuia.com, €45-80) offers a Maori cultural night of stories, songs, the Haka and traditional hangi (a feast of local food cooked in natural hot springs).
Wai-O-Tapu (geyserland.co.nz, €15-20, 00-64-7-3666333), meaning “Sacred Waters”, is located less than 30km south of Rotorua. A 90-minute walk around the thermal wonderland brings you past the boiling, multi-coloured champagne pool and the bubbling mineral terraces of the Lady Knox geyser. Arrive early if you want to see the geyser erupt (10.15am).
Peppers on the Point (00-64-3-3601063, peppers.co.nz) has breathtaking views from its suites and villas, and lake access for swimming and fishing. Victoria Lodge (00-64-7-3484039, victorialodge.co.nz, from E80) offers fully-equipped apartments close to town.
NAPIER
Rebuilt after an earthquake in 1931, Napier is a charismatic, arty town. Built almost exclusively in an Art-Deco style, the feeling is of stepping back through the decades to a time of romantic swagger and composed wine swilling.
A worthwhile walking tour starts from the Art-Deco Building (2pm, €10, artdeconapier.co.nz). The surrounding vineyards of Hawkes Bay offer plenty of choice for wine connoisseurs or head to Cape Kidnappers for incredible views from the Tom Doak-designed golf course.
Seaview Lodge BB (5 Seaview Terrace, 00-64-6-835 0202, aseaview.co.nz) offers elegant rooms in a Victorian villa. The County Hotel (countyhotel.co.nz, 00-64-6-8357800, E150-E300), close to the tree-lined Marine Parade, is English-style luxury with an atmospheric twist, especially in its snug bar.
South Island
FRANZ JOSEF GLACIER
The imposing views of the glacier are impressive enough as it rises from the valley, but to fully appreciate the terrain, pull on your spikes and take a guided hike across the blue ice (franzjosefglacier.com). Afterwards, relax in the outdoor Rainforest Hot Spa pools (36-40 degrees). Book them together for a discount.
Fjordland National Park is all about jagged, misty peaks, glassy lakes and possibly the most remote feeling you’ll get in New Zealand. The park is home to the famous Milford walking track, but another way to be wowed by the area is to view it from the water. Start at 6am and paddle for 20km through the dwarfing cliffs of Milford Sound to the Tasman Sea with Rosco Sea Kayaks (roscosmilfordkayaks.com, prices vary).
With only four kayaks in the water for most of the morning (cruise boats start later in the day), the fjord was ours when we visited, with only the sound of tumbling waterfalls and the splashes of a seal who decided to accompany us to disturb the almost eerie silence.
Accommodation options here are limited. The Rainforest Retreat (rainforestretreat.co.nz, 00-64-3-7520220, from €10pp for camping) offers campsites and self-contained “treehouses” and cottages. There is a restaurant and bar on site. Holly Homestead (hollyhomestead.co.nz, from €100) is a 1920s-style home where you’ll be greeted with fresh baking. Also, at Milford, use one of the DOC sites along the road if you can or the Milford Sound Lodge (www.milfordlodge.com, 00-64-3-249807) offers basic accommodation.
DUNEDIN
With a distinctly student and Scottish feel, the city is aptly named “the Edinburgh of the South”. The National Gallery located in the central Octagon has free admission and impressive exhibitions. A walking tour explains the city’s history and architecture, and then relax over lunch in Speight’s Brewery (speights.co.nz).
Outside the city on the Otago Peninsula, wildlife is the biggest attraction. Monarch Wildlife Cruises (wildlife.co.nz, €25) offers opportunities to see fur seals, sea lions, waders, blue penguins and the huge wingspan of the royal albatross, which nest in a conservation area on the peninsula.
Visit the Yellow-Eyed Penguin reserve (McGrouther’s Farm, 00-64-3-4780286, $20) for good views of these endangered birds.
Hilltop on High Street (hilltoponhighst.co.nz, 00-64-3-4771053, E70-E120) means a steep climb home, but the villa is worth the walk and is great value.
CHRISTCHURCH
For a bird’s eye view of Christchurch that extends as far as the distant peaks of the Southern Alps, take a morning hot-air balloon ride over the city.
Up, Up and Away (ballooning.co.nz) takes flight every morning, weather-permitting, and although a little crowded, the balloon, and the post-ride champagne, make an impressive way to start the day.
Just north of Christchurch, the Canterbury plains offer plenty more vineyard touring opportunities.
Hotel So (00-64-3-9685050, hotelso.co.nz) is centrally located and is space-conscious accommodation at its best.
Go there
There are no direct flights from Ireland to New Zealand. Singapore Airlines (singaporeair.com), Etihad (etihad.com), Emirates (emirates.com) and Air New Zealand (airnewzealand.com) fly to Auckland or Christchurch with connections. You can plan all aspects of your trip at newzealand.com.