BETHLEHEM:Boosted by a period of relative calm, Bethlehem is now encouraging visitors to spend more time exploring the birthplace of Christ, writes Mark Weiss
THINK CHRISTMAS. Think Bethlehem. Once a year the attention of the world is focused on the “little town of Bethlehem”, as thousands of pilgrims arrive to participate in the yuletide festivities.
Bethlehem is mentioned in the Old Testament as Ephrata (which today is also the name of a nearby Jewish settlement). According to the Bible, King David, who was born and grew up in Bethlehem, ruled the town.
The birth of Jesus changed the town forever, and after Constantine’s Edict of Tolerance in 313 AD, churches and monasteries were built here as Bethlehem developed into a prosperous and fortified town.
Along with the rest of the Holy land, Bethlehem was ruled alternatively by Muslims, Crusaders, Ottoman Turks and eventually the British. In the 1920s and 30s, Bethlehem residents embraced the cause of Arab and Palestinian nationalism.
During the 1948 Arab-Israeli war, Bethlehem’s population swelled from 9,000 to 20,000 as Palestinian refugees poured into the town, settling in three camps which remain until this day.
Traditionally, most pilgrims have visited Bethlehem on tour buses from Jerusalem, spending only a few hours in the town. But recently, boosted by a period of relative calm, the town has expanded its tourist infrastructure, with the aim of encouraging visitors to sleep over and spend more time exploring the traditional birthplace of Christ.
SO WHAT DOESBethlehem have to offer? Let's begin by dispelling two popular myths about the town.
Myth number one: it’s not safe to visit Bethlehem. This is no longer true. The town is under the control of the Palestinian Authority security forces which, in recent years, have exerted full control over Palestinian areas of the West Bank, successfully restoring law and order. The era when militant gunmen controlled the streets is over. For now at least, tourists should have no worries about security and safety.
Myth number two: Bethlehem is a Christian town. Christians today make up only about one-third of the population of greater Bethlehem, which also comprises Beit Jala, Beit Sahour and three adjoining refugee camps. Large numbers of Palestinian Christians, who tend to be better educated and more affluent than their Muslim neighbours, have emigrated over the past few decades, leaving behind a shrinking Palestinian Christian community.
The extremely loud call to prayer from the muezzin at the Mosque of Omar in Manger Square is a shrill reminder of the demographic changes that have taken place. This being said, the two religious communities manage to co-exist in relative harmony, and both remain heavily dependent on the Christian tourist trade.
Bethlehem lies 10km south of Jerusalem. The town rests on two hilly plateaus and is surrounded by rolling hills which stretch out eastward to the Judean desert. On a good day you can see Jordan to the east.
Dominated by church towers and minarets, Bethlehem remains relatively unspoilt and is still surrounded by a landscape of vineyards and olive groves, although Israel’s concrete security barrier, which separates the town from Jerusalem and nearby settlements, is an in-your -face reminder of the harsh political realities which are never too far away in this part of the world.
Still, wandering through the town’s steep alleyways and cobbled streets, with a bit of imagination you could envisage how it was for Mary looking for a place at the inn.
TOURIST NUMBERShave been increasing steadily in recent years. A record 2.4 million Christian tourists visited Israel this year and most went to Bethlehem – some 90,000 are expected over the Christmas period.
Gearing up to meet the challenge, the town has undergone a major facelift, leaving the tourist centre looking clean and fresh.
The Church of the Nativity, the traditional birthplace of Christ, remains the focus of attention with constant busloads of pilgrims visiting throughout the day. In sharp contrast to the opulence of St Peter’s in the Vatican, the Church of the Nativity remains remarkably simple and austere. Entrance is through a tiny stone door that is so low you will have to bend down to enter.
The actual site of Christ’s birth, the Grotto of the Nativity, is reached by walking down a dozen steps inside the church. A silver star commemorates the birthplace, bearing the inscription in Latin “Here of the Virgin Mary Jesus Christ Was Born.” Make sure to also check out the impressive 4th-century mosaic floor in the centre of the church.
Manger Square, between the Church and the Mosque of Omar, is the tourist hub of Bethlehem with its souvenir shops, restaurants and Bethlehem town hall. The tourist information office at the Peace Centre has friendly staff, free maps and pamphlets, a well-stocked bookshop and a pleasant cafeteria.
A stroll around Bethlehem’s old city, the neighbourhoods around Paul VI, Star and Farahiya streets, gives you an idea of Arab architecture typical of the Ottoman era. The souk is much less impressive and less touristy than Jerusalem’s old city, but that much more authentic, with the merchants less aggressive.
The market streets are an ideal place to pick up a bargain with Life of Brian-style haggling compulsory. Look out for local embroidery and handicrafts, Middle East spices, jewellery and oriental sweet pastries such as baklawa.
Getting into Bethlehem
Almost all tourists arrive from Jerusalem via the Gilo Israeli military checkpoint. Bethlehem is part of the Palestinian Authority, so make sure to take your passport with you.
There is a lot of hassle for Israelis trying to enter Bethlehem or for Palestinians trying to enter Jerusalem, but passage is usually smooth for tourists in both directions, and the large tourist traffic is given priority access over the busy Christmas period.
Once on the Palestinian side, a local taxi will take you the three kilometres to Manger Square for 15 shekels (€3). On the Israeli side local taxis or minibuses leave frequently for the centre of Jerusalem. Bus 21 runs from Nablus road in east Jerusalem to Bethlehem via Beit Jala, avoiding the Gilo checkpoint.
From noon on December 24th until noon on December 25th, a free tourist shuttle leaves every hour on the hour from the Mar Elias Monastery, just south of the Gilo checkpoint, to Bethlehem's Manger Square. The return shuttle leaves Manger Square on half past the hour.
Where to stay, where to eat and where to go
5 places to stay
Intercontinental – Jacir Palace.Jerusalem-Hebron road, 00-972-2-276-6777, intercontinental.com. Doubles $180 (€136), singles $160 (€122), 250 rooms. Opened this year, the Intercontinental really is in a league of its own. The only five-star star hotel in Bethlehem with a swimming pool, beautiful grounds and all the amenities of a top class establishment. The building, situated between Beit Jala and the Aida camp, once served as the British military headquarters, and was originally a manor owned by a wealthy Bethlehem family.
Paradise Hotel. Manger Street, 00-972-2-743-769/42, paradisebethlehem.com. Doubles $85 (€65), singles $50 (€38), 180 rooms. This pleasant four-star hotel was the second hotel to be built in Bethlehem and has been completely renovated in the last few years. Excellent location 15 minutes' walk from Manger Square and about 200m from Rachel's Tomb.
Sancta Maria Hotel.481 Dr Geminer Street, 00-972-2-276-7374/5/6, sanctamariahotel.com. Doubles $80 (€60), singles $55 (€42), 85 rooms. A clean three-four star hotel with decent food and friendly staff. The rooms on the third floor have a great view.
Nativity Hotel. Al Sahel Street, Beit Jala, 00-972-2-277-0650, nativityhotel.com. Doubles $75 (€57), singles $45 (€34), 116 rooms. Good value for a three-star hotel. Located in a quiet neighbourhood on the edge of the city.
Bethlehem Hotel. Al Karkafa Street, 00-972-2-277-0702, bethlehemhotel.com. Doubles $70 (€53), singles $40 (€30), 209 rooms. Another option for a good value three-star hotel, this 10-storey establishment was built in 1996. Good food and excellent location within walking distance from Manger Square.
5 places to eat
Afteem. Manger Square (on the right just after Peace Centre), 00-972-2-274-7940. A Bethlehem institution since 1948 offering the best humus and falafel in town and dirt cheap. You can order take away or sit downstairs in the restaurant. Afteem has a second restaurant on Madbasa Street.
The Tent Restaurant. Shepherds' Field Street, Beit Sahour, 00-972-2277-3875. Top spot for ambiance as the restaurant is actually a huge Bedouin-style tent. Serves a variety of local ethnic meat dishes for about $20 (€15). For the full ethnic experience, order the water pipe to accompany your post-meal Turkish coffee.
Abu Eli. Manger Street, near Rachel's Tomb, 00-972-2-274-1897. One of the most popular places amongst the locals, which is always a good sign. Specialising in meat dishes, barbecues, lamb chops, etc. Full meal for about $20 (€15). Closed Tuesdays.
Al Koukh. Manger Street. 00-972-2-274-9124. Trendy restaurant and coffee shop. Popular with the younger crowd. Serves a full variety of meat, fish and pasta dishes for around $20 (€15).
Riwaq restaurant and Al-Makan bar. Intercontinental Jacir Palace hotel, Jerusalem-Hebron road, 00-972-2-276-6777. If you fancy a bit of a splurge the food here is great, along with the elegant surroundings. The place for locals to see and be seen. A good opportunity to experience Bethlehem's classiest hotel without actually staying there.
5 places to go
Church of the Nativity. Manger Square. 00-972-2-274-2425. The holiest site in Christendom and the ultimate destination for Christian pilgrims from all over the world. If you only have a few hours in Bethlehem go here first. Entrance is free. Note: during busy periods, Christmas and the summer months, it can take an hour or more for the crowds to pass through the Grotto. Open daily 6am-6pm.
Manger Square. As you exit the Church you face Manger Square. No trip to Bethlehem would be complete without a leisurely walk around the square, browsing in the numerous souvenir shops. There is also a variety of restaurants and coffee shops on the square or on the adjoining side streets.
The Milk Grotto. Just a few minutes away from the Church of the Nativity on Milk Grotto Street, which heads east from Manger Square, is this serene church built into a series of caves. It is here that the Holy Family took shelter on their journey to Egypt. According to tradition, a drop of the Virgin's milk fell on the floor of the cave giving rise to the chalky stone. Invariably ignored by the tourist crowds who throng the Nativity Church, this can be the perfect spot for a moment of private prayer and contemplation. Open 8am-1.30pm, 2pm-5pm. Entrance is free.
Blessings Gift Shop and the Olive Wood Factory. 80-82 Milk Grotto Street, 00-972-2-274-4819. The last souvenir shop on the right as you make your way up to the Milk Grotto. Jiries, the owner, will give you a guided tour of his workshop where you can watch the olive wood craftsmen cut and carve out the wooden souvenirs sold in the adjacent shop. You can also order custom-made signs and come back in an hour to collect. Jiries also lets you climb up to the roof to take in the spectacular view of the Judean hills and Jerusalem. Open 9am-5pm.
Shepherds' Field. The site where the angel appeared to shepherds to announce the birth of Jesus, as in the hymn While Shepherds Watched their Flocks at Night. Situated in Beit Sahour, from the tranquil well-preserved grounds you can see real shepherds watching real flocks on the adjacent hills. Entrance is free.
Close by
Rachel’s Tomb, the burial place of the matriarch Rachel, who died here in childbirth while on the way to Hebron, lies in Israeli-administered territory on the edge of Bethlehem, but is only accessible via bus or car from Israeli Jerusalem. Once a quaint Biblical-style stone building, the Israeli authorities fortified the area in response to a number of terrorist attacks. The site is now an impregnable concrete fortress surrounded by the security barrier. Open 8am-5pm, closed Friday afternoons and Saturday.
Herodian (or Herodium), 11km east of Bethlehem, is the most impressive of all King Herod’s palace-fortresses. The man-made, flat-topped hill dominates the area and commands a magnificent view of Bethlehem, Jerusalem, the Judean desert and the Dead Sea. Herod built the fortress palace here in AD 30 as a summer retreat and refuge from enemies.
When to go
The busy Christmas period runs from mid-December to mid-January (taking in the Orthodox Christmas which is celebrated on January 7th). Hotel prices are about 20 per cent higher over the Christmas-New Year period.
The highlight is the Christmas Eve Mass at the Church of the Nativity, which is transmitted onto a big screen in Manager Square for the spillover crowd. During this period the weather can resemble an Irish summer or can be absolutely freezing and wet, so pack accordingly! Summer can be very hot with temperatures regularly in the 30s. The ideal time to visit weather-wise is spring or autumn.
Holiday reading
It has to be the highly acclaimed The Bethlehem Murdersby Matt Rees, the former Timemagazine Jerusalem bureau chief. A very readable novel about a Bethlehem school teacher who takes it upon himself to investigate a murder in the town after his friend was framed. The novel is a no-holds-barred insight into local corruption and the power of the militias not so long ago.