Go Walk:There are lots of interesting diversions off the Derrynane loop walk, writes Francis Bradley
OUR EFFORTS of the previous day, over the three highest peaks in Ireland, resulted in aching muscles and creaking joints and while there were six satisfied egos, a physical price was being paid. And so it was, in glorious September sunshine, we left the cars and headed for the beach.
This Derrynane route in southwest Kerry is a loop walk which you can start at any point and meander around the loop. However, this would have required a small degree of planning so we stopped at the first car park near the entrance to the Derrynane National Historic Park. From the end of the car park follow the trail through a wooded area and when you emerge turn left and then right along the coast. About 1km from the car park you reach the headland at the narrowest point between Derrynane Bay and the cove on your left. There is an unusual sight on the other side of the narrows. What looks like a trawler that has been reversed in and left high and dry is, in fact, a house.
Finally, you are on the beach and, for us, this was just the medicine after our efforts the previous day. Passing the rocky islets on your left, progress is blocked by a rocky outcrop. The “official loop” exits the beach on the right and continues to Derrynane Pier.
However, we wanted to visit Abbey Island and decided to cross over the outcrop. This is not recommended as it required a dodgy and ignominious descent of a rocky ramp.
Abbey Island is cut off at high tide so watch your time, but it is worth the diversion if only to find Mary O’Connell’s grave (wife of Daniel O’Connell) in the graveyard around the ruins of Derrynane Abbey.
Our protesting limbs were soon forgotten with the curative effects of the heat from the sun, not to mention the leisurely pace. On a walk like this you shouldn’t try to set records. Slow down and drink in the view – have a dip if you are brave.
Back onto the proper route at Derrynane Pier, continue along a meandering path through a rocky landscape festooned with the vibrant colours of gorse and heather. Eventually, you come upon the mass rock where the local Catholic faithful would worship during the penal times in the late 17th and early 18th centuries. The trail passes above Bealtra beach and comes out at Bealtra Pier. Now you set out along a tarred road that winds up the hill. After 0.75km a road comes in from the left, ignore this and continue on until you reach a sharp, left hand, hairpin bend. Take the track on your right. Pass through a gate (close it after you) and a little further on (200m) follow a rough path on the left.
When the track swings down to the right, follow a line of conveniently placed poles which lead you through the overgrown path on the left. Soon you regain the more distinct track. Cross a fence – be careful if there is barbed wire on it – continue down to a stone wall, go left and shortly you come out onto a tarred road.
Follow the road downhill ignoring a road that emerges from the left. You arrive at the Bell Gate entrance to Derrynane House. Pass on through and, as you find your way around the rear of the house, you might consider this a good spot for some light refreshment and maybe even a tour of the Liberator’s fine home.
The rest of the route is straightforward and some of my company even exposed themselves to the rigours of the Atlantic. It never ceases to amaze me how the waters around our fair isle elicit a chameleon-like effect from the human flesh. It is worth noting there is a point along this beach that has very dangerous rips – this is clearly marked. You can find your way back to your car park via the dunes or, more simply, by the road.
Derrynane loop walk
START/FINISHFirst car park near the entrance to Derrynane National Historic Park.
DISTANCE8km.
TIMETwo to three hours.
MAPSOSXX but it is not really useful.
SUITABILITYA moderate walk in a beautiful setting. Not suitable for buggies.
ACCOMMODATIONThe Derrynane Hotel or there's a good choice of B&Bs in and around Caherdaniel.
REFRESHMENTSDerrynane House.
