Go Walk: This fine trek is memorably sandwiched between sea, sky and splendid Slieve Mish, writes John G O'Dwyer
ARE SOME OF your best memories from carefree occasions when, in the style of Wordsworth, you "wandered lonely as a cloud" through swathes of beguiling countryside? If so, it may be that your ship has just sailed.
Now there was a time when you could spend an entire day traversing many of our best-known trails and odds on you wouldn't meet another soul. Recently, however, our trekking routes have become less neglected with overseas walker numbers increasing by about 350,000 since 2003. And Irish people are also recognising the breezy self-improvement that comes from outdoor exercising. For 2007, Fáilte Ireland figures suggest 900,000 domestic holidaymakers hiked or walked while on a leisure break.
Of course, the number of trail users isn't yet comparable to the Camino or Scotland's Highland Way, but in my experience at least, encounters with other walkers are increasing in the Irish countryside. And such meetings are likely to become ever more regular. Economic downturns typically make us time rich but cash poor and in such circumstances past experience suggests we quickly discover that walking offers healthy and costless recreation.
So if chance encounters aren't exactly your bag, you may now resign yourself to less solitary rambles and the fact that the popular final leg of Dingle Way to Tralee is particularly unlikely to do it for you this summer. If you believe, however, that hikes are enriched by an occasional chat, this route, beginning in the blink-and-you-miss-it village of Camp, offers a fine trek that is memorably sandwiched between, sea, sky and splendid Slieve Mish.
You start from where the main N86 road from Tralee to Dingle enters Camp village (see panel). Immediately follow a minor road signed Knockglassmore uphill past the Ocean View nursing home. Go left at a T-junction and soon you join the Dingle Way and find yourself following a rustic lane that, in less frenetic times, was actually the main road from Tralee to Dingle.
Cross several stiles until an ancient oratory and a favours-adorned wishing tree appear immediately right. This is also the site of the now ruined famine village of Killelton, which was abandoned in the 19th century after its inhabitants were evicted by the landowner. Just beyond Killelton there is a short section of tarmac before the route finally advances to open mountainside and memorable views over Tralee Bay. The way ahead is now obvious and passes beneath several impressive glaciated coums with the pretty outfall streams from these glens being conveniently crossed on footbridges and stepping stones.
Watch out on this often tough underfoot section for several ancient standing stones nearby the trail and the now abandoned Victorian reservoir that once supplied water to Tralee. After around 11km, the trail reaches Tonavane and then follows some quiet country roads that gradually descend into Blennerville.
Still resounding with historic echoes, Blennerville was once a busy port and poignant disembarkation point for famine emigrants. The village's signature landmark is an impressively restored windmill and nearby is the boatyard where a replica of the Jeanie Johnson, an emigrant sailing ship, was completed in 2003.
Next cross the road bridge at Blennerville and join with the North Kerry Way where your route swings right and begins the final 2km push to Tralee. This is an easy but pleasant walk following the left bank of the Tralee Ship canal, constructed in 1846 to allow shipping access direct into Tralee. Today it is a disused and silted backwater, the haunt of swans and wading birds, and acts as a suitably contemplative finale to your walk, which finishes by the County Museum at the heart of the capital of the Kingdom.
Dingle Way, Co Kerry
Getting thereIt is possible to complete this walk without a car since Tralee has good rail connections. The best way to get out to the starting point is by taxi or on one of the frequent bus services to Camp.
Starting pointWhere the N86 enters Camp, begin walking left and uphill on a minor road signed Knockglasmore.
MapOrdnance Survey Ireland 1:50,000 Discovery Series, sheet 71.
TimeAllow about five hours.
SuitabilityThis is a straightforward marked route that mostly runs parallel but above the N86 road to Dingle. However, it is a long walk over sometimes tedious terrain, so be equipped with warm clothing and raingear.
AccommodationThe Brandon Hotel (066-7123333) and the Fels Point Hotel (066-7199100) are conveniently located.