Go Citybreak: Manchester, which has been described as the only English city that can look London in the face, has changed hugely over the past 15 years, writes Tony Clayton-Lea
THE LOCAL BOAST is that what Manchester does today, the world does tomorrow, and while there's a certain confident charm about this, it's a confidence born of success. Its list of achievements over the past 40 years (let alone its history as the cornerstone of revolutionary industrialisation) is staggering, and currently the city is leading the renaissance of great UK provincial cities.
Unless you have relatives or friends who live in or near Manchester (and there's no reason why this wouldn't be the case, as its Irish emigrant population is substantial enough to warrant its very own Irish Festival every March) then it's likely you're visiting for one of the following reasons: business, a football match, shopping, culture. If this is the case, you've made the right choice, for Manchester is a city constantly on the move in different directions. You want culture? A mixture of the cheap and the expensive? A blend of contradictions and clear-cut opinions? If the answer is yes, you're in the right place.
But where to start? It might be no harm to quote historian AJP Taylor. He once said Manchester is the only English city that can look London in the face - "not merely as a regional capital, but as a rival version of how men should live in a community".
The first thing you'll notice is the reception and the friendliness. I'd no sooner walked out of Manchester Airport to look for a bus into the city than a man walked over to me and advised me to take the train. "It's so much quicker," he said. "It's cheaper, too."
Like most regional cities, Manchester is easy to get around on foot. If you want to travel slightly further afield, there is a superb Metrolink service, but if the weather is good it's just as nice to stroll the easily navigable streets. It shouldn't matter where exactly you start from, be it the front step of your hotel or any number of central buildings or landmarks.
Manchester has changed remarkably over the past 15 years. Previously, there were localised zones, which at night were the only places you went to. Quite simply, there was nowhere else to go. That situation has changed radically, as you'll see when you head out for the day or the evening.
Perhaps the best place to start is at the Triangle, one of Manchester's swish shopping developments located in what is locally known as the Millennium Quarter. Constructed within the city's old Corn Exchange and situated in a beautiful open space beside Exchange Square, it is within spitting distance of several other must-sees and must-dos: the Arndale Centre (shopping), Urbis exhibition centre, the Printworks (a self-contained entertainment complex of cafes, bars, pubs and multi-screen cinema) and the lush park at Cathedral Gardens. On the cusp of the Millennium Quarter on Corporation Street is Selfridges City Centre, a massive gathering of anchor tenants (including Marks Spencer) with an expansive food hall on its lower floor.
If more alternative shopping appeals to you, make your way to the city's Northern Quarter, which is easily accessible via Withy Grove and Thomas Street from either Urbis or the Printworks. The Northern Quarter is known in the locality as Bohemia Central and it's exactly that - a treasure trove of trendy bars, supremely funky record shops, cool art galleries, hip streetwear boutiques and anything else the style-conscious young (and dangerously young at heart) can imagine.
If you're looking for excellent nightlife, the most concentrated (and best) areas to visit include Chinatown (located between Nicholas, Princess, George and Faulkner streets), the Gay Village (Canal Street, off Princess Street) and Deansgate Locks (a classy, boisterous collection of bars, restaurants and clubs at Deansgate, the southern end of the city).
Fancy a pint in a few local pubs? Then try Manchester's most compact pub crawl at Exchange Square, where the Crown and Anchor, the Mitre Bar, the Old Wellington Inn and Sinclair's Oyster Bar nestle beside each other like a group of old timers chuckling at the antics of the younger generation.
Aer Lingus (www.aerlingus.com) flies to Manchester three times daily. Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) flies daily to Manchester. Central Manchester is less than 30 minutes from Manchester Airport; you can get a bus or train direct from the airport.
Where to stay, eat and go if you're in Manchester for a weekend
5 places to stay
The Palace Hotel. Oxford Street, 00-44-161-2881111, www.palace-hotel-manchester.co.uk. This listed building in the city centre is an upper four-star place - good rooms, leisurely lounge, and airy spaces. The downside? No free WiFi (at the time of my visit, that is; they say it's on the way). Doubles from £104 per room per night.
The Lowry Hotel. Chapel Wharf, Salford, 00-44-161-8274000, www.thelowryhotel.com. This five-star hotel has been voted one of the coolest in the world. It combines contemporary architecture with service, style and a good location. The swish River Restaurant mixes quality decor with delicious food. Doubles from £152 per room per night.
Malmaison. 1-3 Piccadilly, 00-44-161-2781000, www.malmaison-manchester.com. A hotel chain that blends affordability and attention to detail with dramatic decor and very spacious rooms. Doubles from £139.
Yang Sing Oriental Hotel. 36 Princess Street, 00-44-161-2338880, www.yangsingoriental.com. Manchester's newest boutique hotel is inspired by the cultures of Japan, Thailand, India and China; think a fusion of eastern calm and contemporary luxury. Doubles from £179.
Radisson Edwardian. Peter Street, 00-44-161-8359929, www.radissonedwardian.com/manchester. Housed in the former Free Trade Hall - one of the most famous buildings in the city - this winner of the 2007 Manchester Hotel of the Year has all the distinguishing features we have come to expect from this chain. Free WiFi, too. Doubles from £185.
5 places to eat
Olive Press. 4 Lloyd Street, 00-44-845-2051223, www.heathcotes.co.uk/olivepress. This earthy restaurant's flexibility in catering for work and leisure is one of the reasons it recently won an award for the Best Working Lunch Venue.
Mr Thomas's Chop House. 52 Cross Street, 00-44-161-8322245, www.tomschophouse.com. One of the great British eateries, this place is comfort-food heaven: home-made steak and kidney pie, home-made corned beef, Scottish smoked mackerel.
Ning. 92-94 Oldham Street, Northern Quarter, 00-44-845-2051217, www.ningcatering.com. The focus here is simple, direct, diverse and very reasonable; two courses from the à la carte for just £10, accompanied by a honeyed Beer Lao.
The Northern Quarter. 108 High Street, 00-44-161-8327115, www.tnq.co.uk. This is one of Manchester's most lauded indendepent restaurants, and is in the alternative fashion hub of the same name. The menu mixes prime local ingredients with Mediterranean flavours and changes frequently. A three-course lunch starts from £14.95.
Choice Bar and Restaurant. Castle Quay, Castlefield, 00-44-161-8333400 www.choicebarandrestaurant.co.uk. Located in the Castlefield Quay development, a short stroll from the city centre, this is a smart silver-service and linen eatery that boasts a fab selection of beers and Manchester's largest collection of wine by the glass.
5 places to go
Imperial War Museum North, The Quays, 00-44-161-8364000, www.iwm.org.uk. Located at an impressive waterfront destination, a 10-minute Metrolink journey from the city centre. Designed by architect Daniel Libeskind, the outward design represents a world torn apart by conflict on land, air and sea. Every hour the main exhibition space transforms itself into a 360-degree movie screen as it alternates three audio-visual presentations.
Manchester Art Gallery. Mosley Street, 0044-161-235-8888, www.manchestergalleries.org. The winner of the city's Large Visitor Attraction of the Year award - a free-admission gallery that is most famous for its Pre-Raphaelite art.
Urbis. Cathedral Gardens, 00-44-161-60508200, www.urbis.org.uk. Urbis concentrates on the histories and experiences of people who have shaped urban spaces. An enthralling museum for the world's first industrialised city.
John Ryland Library. 150 Deansgate, 00-44-161-3060555, www.library.manchester.ac.uk. One of Manchester's abiding tourist attractions, despite it being something of a hidden gem. It's even better following a recent £16m redevelopment.
Manchester Music Tour. 00-44-7958-246917, www.manchestermusictours.com. With a city that is synonymous with rock music, why not head out on a tour of its musical landmarks? Inspiral Carpets drummer Craig Gill (formerly a Hacienda resident DJ) will show you around. An authoritative, authentic visitor experience.
Shopping
The city centre has all the usual high-street shops, but for something slightly left-of-centre, investigate the Northern Quarter for independent clothes shops.
Hot spot
There is a large number of superb restaurants and bars in the city centre to choose from. Cluster areas, however, might be the best bet for a weekend visit. Head to Deansgate Locks, a wide array of cafes and bars built under reclaimed railway arches.