Its young population ensures that this dynamic city punches above its weight, writes Evan Costigan
THE WATER IS a frenzy of bubbles when an extensive panel of floodlights flicks on, beaming shafts of light from the bed of the shallow canal. Fully aglow now, the whole surface heaves. Great mounds of water belch and recede. Purple, pink and blue neon, projected from nearby department stores, swirls on the back of this liquid animal. Music bursts forth. Jets of water spear upwards, well past my vantage point on the fourth floor, before arcing back to the rabid water below. This explosive symphony of water, light and music runs for an action-packed few minutes before the canal returns to its former stagnant self in the Canal City shopping complex, a futuristic development entirely at home in Fukuoka city: a vibrant, sophisticated metropolis in the north of the southwesterly Japanese island of Kyushu.
As the closest major Japanese city to China and Korea, Fukuoka is western Japan's international gateway. With a population of just 1.4 million, this small, bold city punches above its weight on a number of fronts. Its bid to host the 2016 Olympic Games (going head to head with Tokyo for the honour), palpable international air and the fact it has Japan's youngest urban population translate into a city on the move, with no shortage of self-assurance. All of which has everyone taking notice. In 2006 Newsweeklisted Fukuoka as one of its top 10 most dynamic cities; Asiaweek has consistently ranked it one of the most liveable cities in Asia over the past decade.
Outside Canal City, lured by the red lanterns of yatai food stalls dotting the banks of the Nakagawa river, I wedge myself between locals to slurp great mouthfuls of Hakata ramen, a pork-bone soup containing thin noodles and a generous pork slice. Under the dangling light bulbs, conversation occurs in short bursts. Here, in the Hakata area of the city, eating is king.
Across the river lies Tenjin, Fukuoka's commercial centre. Between both, marooned in the Nakagawa, is Nakasu, an island of reclaimed land with the heaviest concentration of bars and restaurants in Fukuoka. On my way across the pedestrian bridge a woman sits, cross- legged, delicately stroking kanjicharacters on to a sensu(Japanese fan). The reflections of giant billboards blink alluringly on the surface of the river as the muffled notes of a saxophonist fill the air. Busy intersections funnel fleets of taxis, cyclists and pedestrians in all directions. At 4am on Nakasu the mood is light-hearted and playful: the karaoke bars have found their voice; electronic dartboards are pinging out scores, and some department stores remain open.
The next morning Fukuoka's subway system shoots me to Tenjin underground shopping mall, a half-kilometre feast of speciality fashions from New York, Paris and London. Monocle magazine recently ranked Fukuoka as its top destination worldwide for shopping, and it is easy to appreciate why. Both above and below ground the Tenjin area is packed with upmarket boutiques, department stores, robotics stores and traditional craft outlets stuffed full of Hakata dolls, orisilk and wooden crafts. Aside from the sheer variety of goods, what is most refreshing about this shopping experience is the friendly and accommodating staff, the enticing price tags and the distinct lack of crowds.
On my way to the Eeny Meeny Miny Mo mall, a cyclist cuts in front of me with a jingle of his bell before continuing his slalom between shoppers. In Fukuoka, pedestrians and cyclists share the same paths, and this system somehow works. Something else to look out for on Tenjin's streets is what the girls are wearing. It may sound outlandish, but leg warmers pulled down over high heels, tartan skirts combined with loud T-shirts and white lace parasols are the norm. Over here all that matters is that what you wear counts as kawaii, or cute.
The 120m Skydream Ferris wheel, in Marinoa, is a thrilling way to see the circuit board of the city at night. Halfway through our 20-minute revolution the two Japanese girls in my cabin bury their heads in their hands and begin an anxious wait for our downward turn. This ride is definitely not for the faint-hearted. Prior to this Fukuoka Tower, a 234m structure covered in 8,000 mirrors, had presented good daytime views across the city from its observation deck, halfway up. Illuminated at night, both the tower and the Skydream are stunning spectacles.
On day three I sought respite from Fukuoka's shopping malls and bustling nightlife. Located in Ohori-Koen park, Fukuoka Art Museum counts a Dali and a Warhol among its collection. Next to the museum is a well-maintained, circuit-style Japanese garden, which provides the perfect transition to Hakata's temples and shrines.
At Shofukuji Zen temple an inner world of wooden buildings, greenery and sacred statues set around a small pond awaits discovery. Buddhist monks brush the debris of scattered leaves into small piles as turtles bask under the glare of the midday sun. Afterwards, I stood beneath the intimidating stare of the largest wooden Buddha in Japan, at Tochoji Temple, before walking to Kushida-Jinja, Hakata's main shrine. Founded in 757, it is home to a 700-year-old annual festival in which teams of men race each other carrying heavy floats. Standing within this walled sanctuary, I was struck for the first time by how much this thriving city is simultaneously cognisant of its past. Tradition and modernity co-exist in apparent harmony here: robots rub shoulders with hand-painted Hakata dolls; megamalls neighbour shrines; giddy neon winks at naked light bulbs.
For all of Fukuoka's attractions, perhaps its most appealing characteristic is that it contains the atmosphere of Japan's larger cities within an easily negotiable space. Make room, Tokyo: there's a new kid on the Japanese travel block, and its star is on the rise.
• The Fukuoka Welcome Card, free from most tourist offices, entitles visitors to up to 30 per cent off at restaurants, hotels, stores and attractions
Where to stay, eat and go
Where to stay
Sea Hawk Hotel. 2-2-3 Jigyohama, Chuo-ku, 00-81-92-8448111, www.hawkstown.com/hotel/. Modelled on a luxury liner, this 1,052-room hotel is one of Fukuoka's best places to stay.
Grand Hyatt Hotel. Canal City, 1-2-82 Sumiyoshi, Hakata-ku, 00-81-92-2821234, www.fukuoka.grand.hyatt.com. This lavish hotel is ideally located in Canal City.
Nishitetsu Grand Hotel. 6-60 Daimyo, Chuo-ku, 00-81-92-7717171, www.grand-h.jp. Well-equipped rooms, friendly staff and many restaurants to choose from.
Hotel Nikko Fukuoka. 2-18-25 Hakata Eki-mae, Hakata-ku, 00-81-92-4821117, www.hotelnikko-fukuoka.com. In an excellent location beside Hakata central station, this hotel has an expansive marble lobby and spacious rooms.
Where to eat
Takadaya. 2-7 Nakasu 2-Chome, Hakata-ku, 00-81-092-2635400. Takadaya's menu features octopus, shrimp, crab soup and Japanese Karubi prime beef you barbecue at your table.
Caffé Otto Cyclo. Canal City, 1-2 Sumiyoshi, Hakata-ku, 0081-92-2632262, www.otto-web.net. Provides a very good Japanese set menu, including miso soup and an excellent fourth-floor view of that fountain show.
Seala Restaurant. Sea Hawk Hotel, 2-2-3 Jigyohama, Chuo-ku, 0081-92-8448111, www.hawkstown.com/hotel. This plant-filled atrium restaurant offers a western-style buffet and a wide range of coffees and desserts under a high glass ceiling.
Yatai Food Stalls. Banks of the Nakagawa river. Try Hakata ramen, yakatori and, if you are brave enough, mentaiko(peppered cod roe). An authentic eating experience.
Where to go
Canal City. 1-2 Sumiyoshi, Hakata-ku, 0081-92-2822525, www.canalcity.co.jp. A canal swerves through the centre of this state-of-the-art megamall.
Fukuoka Yahoo! Dome. 2-2-2 Jigyo-hama, Chuo-ku, 00-81-92-8471699, www.softbankhawks.co.jp. Catch a professional baseball game here.
Fukuoka Tower. 2-3-26 Momochihama, Sawara-ku, 00-81-92-8230234, www. fukuokatower.co.jp. The tallest seaside tower in Japan offers panoramic views of the city.
Takeo Hot Springs. 2-3-66 Yukata, Hakata-ku, 00-81-92-4524126. Enjoy a traditional Japanese
onsen(hot bath) at this location.
Kushida-Jinja Shrine. 1-41 Kamikawabata, Hakata-ku, 00-81-92-2912951. A tranquil setting in the heart of the city.
Go there
KLM flies from Dublin to Fukuoka via Amsterdam and Osaka (1850-747400, telephone reservations only).