Climbing Carrauntoohil, our highest peak, is challenging but very achievable - and the beguiling views make the effort worth it, writes John G ODwyer
IT IS AN oft-quoted statement that each person should stand, at least once, on the roof of his or her native land. This may prove tricky to obey if you hail from Nepal, but in Ireland's case it is eminently achievable if you are reasonably fit and have basic navigation skills.
The traditional start point for Carrauntoohil is Cronin's Yard, where parking costs just €2 and there are well-appointed tearooms and shower facilities.
From here head up the achingly beautiful Hag's Glen, which is dramatically surrounded by most of Ireland's highest mountains. Soon the trail leads to the Gaddagh River - which you should ford with caution.
Continue up the glen on a well-trodden track to another river crossing. Don't cross however - instead, follow a minor path that leads right and upwards beneath a prominent pinnacle known as the Hag's Tooth. Some mild scrambling on rocky ledges is required before you reach a spectacular hanging valley. Cross another stream and ascend beneath the breathtaking northeast face of Carrauntoohil.
When the slope eases you will come upon a cleverly disguised rescue hut that has been the salvation for several groups in deteriorating weather conditions.
Now walk directly to the corner formed by the north and east faces of the mountain. Above lies the brooding face of the incongruously named Primroses Ridge, first climbed in 1983 and regarded as Ireland's hardest defined mountain ascent. Continue upwards on a deeply-eroded trail, which leads to a gap between the mountain and a rock outcrop. This is the Heavenly Gates and from here rises Howling Ridge - Ireland's most renowned mountain route.
Incredibly, Howling Ridge was only discovered and climbed by Con Moriarty and John Cronin in February 1987. Since then it has become something of an iconic ascent - especially for those wishing to move from the gentle rhythms of hillwalking to battling a near-vertical mountain ridge.
Beyond the Heavenly Gates your eyes will be dragged towards a spectacular mountain gully. This was the scene for the epic rescue in July 1967 of Corkman Bill Collins who had sustained serious injuries in a fall. His evacuation - from what is now known as Collin's Gully - took place in appalling weather and marked the first major success for the newly formed Kerry Mountain Rescue Team.
Now proceed on an easy trail until two prominent outcrops appear ahead. Just beyond, a rocky track marked by cairns leads right and uphill. Follow this breath-robbing route until the Holy Year Cross marking Carrauntoohil summit comes into view. On a clear day the views from the roof of Ireland are beguiling. Northwest is Dingle Peninsula, southwest lies Kenmare Bay and the west Cork mountains beyond, while immediately below a spectacular ridge connects with Beenkeragh - Ireland's second-highest mountain.
Having savoured the scenery and taken the obligatory album snaps, it's time to consider your descent. The straightforward approach is to retrace your steps by the cairned route, but then continue down past the two rocky outcrops until an extremely eroded gully appears to your left. This is the famous Devil's Ladder, which leads directly into the Hag's Glen and onto a track leading back to Cronin's Yard. It is, however, a tedious knee-jarring descent, which is dangerously unstable.
A more enjoyable route involves contouring briefly along the cliffs on the north of Carrauntoohil and descending a rocky path northwest towards the Beenkeragh Ridge. At the lowest point on this route a grassy ramp, known as Brother O'Shea's Gully, leads right to Cummeenoughter Lake below. Follow down to the shores of the lake, then continue by the outfall stream to a hanging valley. Move right towards Carrauntoohil and descend easier ground into yet another hanging valley, where you will soon come upon the track used on your ascent to the Heavenly Gates. From here simply retrace your steps back to Cronin's Yard.
Carrauntoohil, Co Kerry
Starting PointLeave Killarney by the N72. At Fossa head left for the Gap of Dunloe. Continue, leaving the Gap on your left until you see a sign for Carrauntoohil. This road leads to Cronin's Yard.
SuitabilityThe route is mainly on rough and indistinct tracks that are easy to lose in misty conditions. Carry a map and compass you know how to use, prepare for an energy-sapping day and leave plenty of time to complete before dark.
TimeSix hours minimum.
MapsHarvey Superwalker 1:30,000 - MacGillycuddy's Reeks; Ordnance Survey Ireland 1:25,000 Map - MacGillycuddy's Reeks; Ordnance Survey Ireland: 1:50,000 - Discovery Series Sheet 78
AccommodationInveraray Farm Guesthouse (064-44775) is ideally located in the shadow of MacGillycuddy's Reeks, nine kilometres west of Killarney. In sylvan surroundings by Killarney's Lower Lake, the Castlerosse Hotel (064-31144) offers views of Carrauntoohil and has a full leisure centre.