Above the Glen of Aherlow, the sylvan Slievenamuck Ridge offers an easy but memorable walk that suits people of all ages and offers wonderful views of the Galtee Mountains, writes JOHN G O'DWYER
THE HIDDEN IRELAND of John Hinde postcards, so popular with generations of tourists, has been reduced by unprecedented affluence to a moribund caricature of a supposedly simpler, happier Ireland. Only green-tinged American visitors and urbanised locals, safely removed from the back-breaking reality of subsistence farming, still long for the nostalgic landscapes of a mythical Ireland.
The supposedly idyllic lifestyle of ass-and-cart agriculture, thatched cottages and farm families eking a precarious living from the land was long ago terminated by the EU, the JCB and the microchip. And good riddance.
These days the countryside is a place of modern houses, mechanised farms and hugely expanded villages. And amid such rapid change there are, of course, many examples where we have been irresponsible with concrete blocks, created ugly ribbon developments and irreversibly reduced the quality of the environment.
Search carefully, however, and you will find places away from the urban hubs and tourism honeypots where life still moves at a slower, gentler pace, buildings relax comfortably into the backdrop and the lure of the landscape is undimmed.
Co Tipperary has such a place: a secluded glen that resolutely defends its charms against the worst excesses of our once rampant Celtic Tiger. And above the Glen of Aherlow the sylvan Slievenamuck Ridge offers an easy but memorable walk that is well suited for families and offers wonderful views of the Galtee Mountains.
The walk starts in the car park beside Aherlow House Hotel (see panel). From here take the tarred road east and uphill to the entrance for the hotel. Next cross the road to a car park and follow the track, signposted Rock an Thorabh, for almost 1,500m. The Rock, which lies about 40m left off the trail, is a wonderful viewing point for the Golden Vale, Tipperary town and the Slievefelim Hills beyond.
Having fully imbibed of the view, continue along Slievenamuck Ridge which is named after a fearsome rampaging sow that is reputed to have been put to the spear by no less a personage than Fionn Mac Cumhaill. At a point where four tracks intercept take the left option and continue downhill for a kilometre, until you cross a minor public road. Continue on the path directly opposite for another kilometre to a junction where you turn right. This leads to a road that you follow right for 100m to the unmistakable Jubilee 2000 Memorial, which was built by the local community to celebrate the millennium year and is ideal for a food break.
Now take the track directly opposite the monument. As you ascend you will enjoy splendid views across the glen to the mighty Galtee Mountains – the highest inland range in Ireland.
At the next junction continue straight ahead on a narrow and sometimes mucky trail that leads to yet another confluence of tracks, where you take the left option. After almost two kilometres you will come to a parking place and viewing area overlooked by a life-size statue of Christ the King, right hand raised in magisterial blessing.
At the other end of the viewing area a path leads down wooden steps into Glen of Aherlow Nature Reserve. This admirable community initiative consists of 18 hectares of diverse woodland with a well-illustrated nature trail.
Follow the arrows through the reserve until a wooden stile opens on to a broad lane as it descends to an attractive stone bridge. You are now standing on an old coach road that was used by the horse-drawn cars of the Italian immigrant Charles Bianconi, who set up Ireland’s first system of mass transportation, in 1815.
From the bridge descend to another intersection, where you go rightand then track back all the way to your parking place. Here you might say thank you for the parking facilities by popping into Aherlow House for a little nourishment by the fireside in the suitably olde-worlde surroundings.
If you would like to explore the Galtee Mountains and nearby glen as part of a group, then the well-established Aherlow Walking Festival, which runs this year from May 29th to June 1st, could be just the ticket. A variety of guided walks are on offer, showcasing mountains, lakes, rivers, woodlands and sites of historic interest. Call 062-56331 or e-mail info@aherlow.com
Slievenamuck Ridge, Co Tipperary
Getting thereFrom Tipperary town take the R664 for Aherlow. Soon after negotiating a couple of hairpin bends, the entrance to Aherlow House Hotel is signposted on the right.
SuitabilityThe walk offers little in terms of objective dangers and has been successfully completed by children as young as six.
TimeAllow a leisurely two and a half hours to complete the walk.
AccommodationIn a woodland setting with splendid mountain views, Aherlow House Hotel (062-56153, www.aherlowhouse.ie) has comfortable three-star rooms and well-appointed lodges. Details of other accommodation options from the tourist office at Excel Centre in Tipperary (062-80520).
MapOrdnance Survey Ireland Discovery Series sheet 66.