After a fortnight of camping, hiking and kayaking John Holdentried to relax, but the world's fourth-largest island offered too many things to do
I'M NOT sure how many people asked me if I had seen Madagascarwhen I told them where I was going. But it seems the animated film makes up the bulk of many people's knowledge of the world's fourth-largest island, off the east coast of Africa.
Although not the most common holiday destination for the Irish, it has been a popular spot for other European tourists for decades. With French widely spoken, a relatively trouble-free political history, friendly people and one of the most fascinating natural environments on earth, it is no surprise that its popularity is growing.
After arriving in the tongue-twister capital, Antananarivo ("Tana" for short), I met my driver and headed east towards Andasibe National Park, one of the best spots in the country to see lemurs, reptiles, birds and assorted invertebrates in the wild. Most wildlife enthusiasts come for the lemurs; several varieties live in Andasibe, including indri, sifaka and bamboo lemurs. They are generally unafraid of humans as long as a few metres of tree trunk come between you and them.
Madagascar is vast - about the same size as France - and its landscape diverse. In the east the surroundings are lush, green and sprinkled with paddy fields; moving west, red hills dominate a drier terrain.
It was in the west that we met our guide to take us to the Tsiribihina river, our gateway to the Mozambique Channel.
To get to the river we went by road to a small town named Miandrivazo. This busy little place was not used to tourists, and we were the objects of much attention. We naively returned the continual calls of " salut vazaha" until we learned that the phrase means "hello foreigner".
In daylight I noticed that the town had as many chickens running around as people, which I found quaint. My sentimentality changed at nightfall, however, when the roosters started to call - and didn't stop until sunrise. Apparently, the brightness of the moon confuses them. They did not stop cock-a-doodle-doing all night (except for a brief intermission at about 3am, when the dogs took over).
The next morning we began our canoe trip down the Tsiribihina. We floated along the wide, winding river for 120km. We camped on its banks at night, when our canoe's captain served some of the best food we had on the trip.
Travelling this way gives you access to parts of the country where plant and animal life is untouched. An array of lemurs, crocodiles and lizards, not to mention birds and insects, was on show throughout, and there are also some breathtaking waterfalls and natural pools.
Before the river meets the Mozambique Channel you arrive at the town of Belo Tsiribihina. This is a common spot for tourists to relax before embarking on the journey to one of the most breathtaking parts of Madagascar: Tsingy de Bemaraha, a Unesco World Heritage site. With roads passable only using 4x4s at certain times of the year - we took five hours to travel 60km - the Tsingy is simply breathtaking.
Like a grey forest, jagged rock formations tower 60m into the air in this 120,000-hectare reserve. You need safety harnesses, steel ladders and cable ropes to climb to looking points. There is even a swinging suspension bridge connecting two broad canyons. The climb might be a little daunting for some, but anyone who has a chance to see Tsingy should take it.
The west of the island is also home to one of the most visited places in Madagascar: Avenue of the Baobabs. The baobab is a freak among trees; storing water gives it an oversized trunk, and it has only small, stubby branches. Many legends are attached to the upside-down-looking species, which is found mainly in the west of the island.
The end of our two-week expedition heralded the beginning of a calmer phase. We flew to the tropical island of Sainte Marie, off the northeast coast. It has the most beautifully cliched landscape: long stretches of white sandy beaches overhung by coconut trees. Unpredictable weather makes it less visited than some other sun-holiday destinations nearby.
Here the trip was meant to turn from action-packed adventure to lazy, boozy relaxation in paradise. But it's just not that easy to switch off when you've come from so much stimulation. Sainte Marie is a place where you can do nothing and be perfectly content, but we also found that there was plenty to keep the hyperactive occupied.
It has some of the best whale watching in the world. Between July and September the island is filled with biologists observing humpback whales, which travel from the Antarctic to the Indian Ocean to mate.
Most of the development is concentrated on the western side of the island, and, like everywhere in Madagascar, there are wild, geographical treats for those with an adventurous spirit. Anything off the beaten track is accessible only by motorbike, 4x4 or mountain bike. You can head into the highlands, go north to see waterfalls and natural pools or travel across the island to the east coast, which gives you the opportunity to see how traditional islanders live.
Even though we travelled extensively, we didn't get to see many parts of Madagascar. It's vast and full of surprises. Too many, almost. After nearly a month in the tropics we got to do some sunbathing only on our very last day.
Madagascar: Escape 2 Africapreviews next Friday and Saturday
Where to stay
AntananarivoMost people who travel to Madagascar tend not to spend too much time in the capital. IC Hotel (Lot 043 MMA II, Ivato Tana, 00-261-20- 2434767, www.ichotel.mg) is a new and comfortable option near Ivato airport with pleasant, airy rooms and friendly service.
AndasibeVakôna Forest Lodge (www.hotel-vakona.com) is a stunning hotel in the middle of a private forest reserve. Spacious bungalows surround an octagonal reception and restaurant. The best hotel in the area, it is well worth a visit.
Sainte MarieOne of the best options on the island has to be Vohilava Bungalows (00-261- 20-5704065, www.vohilava. com). They are at the top end of the scale but still very affordable, with an excellent restaurant and very friendly staff. Princesse Bora Lodge Spa (00-261-20-5704003, www.princessebora.com), the only five-star hotel on the island, could match any top-class hotel for luxury (and price) in the world. The spa is due for completion by Christmas.
When to go
Broadly speaking, the dry months are in the southern-hemisphere winter, from April to September. The busiest times are around Christmas and August. Cyclone season is February and March and should be avoided.
Go there
Air France (www.airfrance. ie) and Air Madagascar (www.airmadagascar.com) each fly several times a week from Paris. If you travel from Europe with Air Madagascar, its internal flights are half-price once you are in the country.