Hillwalkers tend to give Croagh Patrick a wide birth, perhaps reckoning the busy pilgrim highway from Murrisk to the summit suits masochists more than mountaineers, writes JOHN G O'DWYER
IT IS OUR most climbed mountain, and each year, on the last Sunday of July, it achieves international renown. Teeming multitudes, most of whom otherwise would never have recourse to a hillside, come in human avalanche to search for redemption on a penitential journey to the crest of Ireland’s most famous peak.
And this may also be the reason why hillwalkers tend to give Croagh Patrick a wide birth, perhaps reckoning the continually busy and heavily eroded pilgrim highway leading from Murrisk to the summit suits masochists more than mountaineers.
But this is to underestimate what the Reek has to offer. Head out on to the great shoulders of our handsomest hill and solitude and serenity are yours for the taking.
A good starting place is on the west side of Croagh Patrick just beyond Leckanvy village. From here follow the metalled road until you encounter two gates directly facing each other. Go through the left gate and strike out for the westernmost spur of the Reek.
Underfoot conditions are good, and surprisingly quickly you will find yourself beside the stout cairn that marks the beginning of the Reek ridge proper. A pleasant crest now rises southeast in serial steps to the first summit of Ben Goram, which is marked by two small cairns. Then a short decline and rise brings the next summit, crowned by a tiny cairn and offering superb views of Croagh Patrick’s great quartzite flanks.
Descend to a broad coll and begin ascending, easily at first. Eventually, the hardest work of the day comes on a narrow stony path labouring steeply upwards past Roilig Mhuire, the first of several pilgrim stations on the mountain where the faithful perform prayerful rituals.
Soon afterwards, a switchback trail deposits you on the summit. At first this may prove a disappointment, for you are unlikely to be greeted by the ethereal vision of a mountain Madonna or encounter St Patrick struggling to lock his GPS on a heavenly satellite.
Instead you will find that several thousand years of pilgrimage has inevitably left its mark. There are a century-old chapel, rudimentary toilets, more pilgrim stations and several untidy shelters.
But these are just incidentals. For what has really drawn believers here over the generations is the enigmatic quality of the place – its prominence and reassuring permanence in contrast to our own transience and triviality.
To reinforce such feelings you can gaze over Clew Bay to a lonesome landscape that is little altered since St Patrick reputedly trod these spartan stones. Materialism may now squat immovably at the core of modern life, but the undiminished appeal of Croagh Patrick is proof of a continuing desire for a higher meaning.
Your descent initially follows the Pilgrim’s Path over unpleasant screes where considerable care should be exercised. When you reach yet another penitential station the slope eases and the route heads east past a toilet block.
The main path finally swings left, and you may continue downwards, over sometimes steep but otherwise uneventful going, to St Patrick’s statue and Murrisk car park.
A more interesting option is to eschew the obvious route by continuing east to pick up a path on the south side of multi-topped Crott Mountain, which is really an outlying shoulder of the Reek.
Eventually you will encounter a large drystone wall, which you follow to a point where waymarkers lead right. These denote Tochar Phadraig, the original pilgrim route from Ballintubber Abbey; follow them over roughish terrain until a wooden stile leads you to an enclosed stony track.
You are now on the Western Way, which you follow left to reach a wide gateway. Beyond a sylvan lane with helpful walking arrows lead you downhill to swing left for Belclare Bridge on the Murrisk-Westport road.
Croagh Patrick, Co Mayo
Getting thereFrom Westport follow the R335. Park near Belclare Bridge or in Murrisk car park. Then get a friend or a taxi to take you through Leckanvy. Continue for one and a half kilometres, then turn south at the first junction and keep going until you encounter a road heading left. Your walk begins here.
SuitabilityThis is a high- level hillwalk in an exposed location with a few steepish sections, but generally it presents few objective dangers or navigational difficulties. Nevertheless, walkers should be well equipped and competent at route-finding.
TimeAllow about three and a half hours' walking time to reach Murrisk. Allocate four and a half hours to complete the full walk.
MapUnfortunately, Croagh Patrick lies at the intersection of four Ordnance Survey maps. However, sheets 30 and 31 cover most of the route described here.
Food and accommodationAvailable at several pubs and BBs near Murrisk. Otherwise, you are spoiled for choice in Westport. More information from the local tourist office, at 098-25711.