Don't let all the talk of Lisbon make you overlook the area around the capital, writes Go reader MARY MOYNIHAN
LISBON MAY BE on everyone’s mind at the moment, but on a recent visit to Portugal we sidestepped the capital and scooted out of town for a few days to visit Sintra, Cascais and Belém.
It’s amazing the diversity of culture and history that can be found in this small area while still allowing chilling-out time in the many outdoor restaurants and cafes.
We stayed just outside Lisbon, at Pousada de Queluz. Pousadas are similar to the paradors of Spain: they are government-owned hotels, usually in distinguished buildings.
Ours was formerly inhabited by the Royal Guard of the Court in the Palace of Queluz, known as Portugal’s Versailles. It is beautifully restored and furnished, and guests enjoy the regal atmosphere.
The hotel advertises its exquisite cuisine in a restaurant in a building across the square. When we sampled its fare we agreed with its proud boast, as each course was extravagantly presented.
A wedding party was at the table next to us, with only 10 guests – not an Irish wedding, then! The bride was in antique lace, but the parents were just in their Sunday best. We were amused by the five waiters who synchronised the lifting of 10 silver cloches to reveal a sumptuous feast.
I’m all for downsizing weddings, but I thought this party was just a tad too small. Apparently, though, this size is the norm in these parts.
When we retired we felt like a king and queen in our own palace – until awoken, unceremoniously, the next morning by a brass band beneath our window. We only then realised that there was a military academy next door.
We wandered through the opulent palace and beautiful gardens – which date from about 1760 – of Queluz, then wastefully left our rental car behind as we boarded a train for the short journey to Sintra.
We were right to judge that parking would be limited in this little town and World Heritage site. What a gem. It was where the Spanish royal family spent their summers through the centuries. It’s like a fairy tale come true, with cake-icing castles on mountain peaks, dream palaces in the woods and exclusive mansions at every turn.
Lord Byron described this area as the “glorious Paradise”. Horse-drawn carriages take visitors up to Serra de Sintra and the 19th-century Palácio Nacional da Pena. Castelo dos Mouros, or Moors Castle, which, with its dramatic walls and towers, is believed to date from the ninth or 10th century, is another photo opportunity.
Then it was back to present-day elegance and afternoon tea at Lawrence’s Hotel.
Bordering Sintra is the pretty town of Loures, whose major attraction, Quinta do Conventinho (Little Convent Farm), is surrounded by beautiful gardens.
Our next stop was sophisticated Cascais, famous for its sailing, equestrian events and haute-couture shopping, with a casino, golf and motor racing in nearby Estoril.
Despite all this hype, we found Cascais to be unspoilt and friendly as we strolled around, enjoying ice creams from the famous Santini. The weather was fantastic, so we swam in one of the town’s sheltered coves before having a farewell evening drink at Hotel Albatroz, with its amazing sea views.
Our final trip was to Belém, on the River Tagus at the edge of Lisbon, under bright blue skies – a bonus not always guaranteed near the Atlantic Ocean.
Here we admired one of Europe’s most impressive religious buildings, the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos. This monastery, an example of Portugal’s Manueline architecture, has an abundance of decorative motifs.
To view it across the riverside park is breathtaking, with its towering church supported by decorative pillars and two storeyed cloisters.
Opposite the monastery on the banks of the Tagus is the Padrão dos Descobrimentos, or Monument to the Discoveries, from 1960, commemorating the 500th anniversary of the death of Henry the Navigator. It resembles the prow of a ship, with sculptures of the seafaring heroes.
On the ground we had fun moving around on the mosaic map of the world. We could hear, overhead, the traffic from the kilometre-long Ponte 25 de Abril suspension bridge, named in memory of the 1974 revolution that ended the authoritarian rule of António de Oliveira Salazar. And, facing it, the impressive statue of Christ the King, built in 1959 to celebrate Portugal’s preservation from the second World War.
Then it was back to the waterfront, to admire Torre de Belém, or Belém Tower as it leans out over the river. This five-storey tower and bastion was a lookout post that protected the entrance to the capital.
We chose to stay outside Lisbon not to slight the city but as a compliment to its wonderful surroundings. Forget your political views: make Lisbon a positive place to visit.
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