The Balearic island gained fame in the 1990s as hedonism headquarters, but authorities are now trying to keep a lid on the party. Hugh Linehanfound plenty to keep his young children entertained and Tony Clayton-Leafound it a happy, safe family spot
IT WAS LAST year's rainswept "holiday" in east Cork that finally settled it. Four years after the birth of our first child, and three after the surprisingly quick sequel, we had had enough rationalising about how an Irish holiday was as good as anywhere else in the world. We needed warmth in the ageing parental bones. This year we'd be going somewhere there would be a reasonable chance of sunshine.
But we received a few odd looks when we mentioned our destination. Ibiza, island of Es and whizz, of largin' it through the night, birthplace of acid house, Balearic beats, sunset chill-outs and getting your tits out for Sky. Hardly the place to bring a couple of pre-school children, you might think.
But the powers-that-be in Ibiza are trying their best to change the image of their island, imposing stricter licensing and noise regulations to cut down on the thump-thump-thumping, and encouraging the development of five-star hotels at the expense of jerry-built blocks.
Meanwhile, many visitors are gravitating from the highly developed coast to the interior, where converted traditional farmhouses, many dating back several hundred years, are increasingly popular.
It actually takes little or no effort to escape from the package holiday sprawl and revel in the many pleasures of this beautiful place, with its sheltered coves, its spectacular coastline and its rolling, wooded interior. Through the good offices of relatives who've been living there for some years, we secure a sublet in the low-key suburb of Port des Torrent, a couple of miles to the west of Sant Antoni, in a quiet, secure little enclave of eight units set in lush gardens around a lovely pool. It's a pleasant, practical base from which we can strike out in all directions - nowhere in Ibiza is more than a 45-minute drive away.
There's only one problem: the terrifying conjunction of a fearless three-year-old and an unfenced swimming pool. Within an hour of our arrival, the small boy is being retrieved from the water at the cost of a brand-new mobile phone. It's a real headache when holidaying with young children that pools in Spain tend not to be fenced off. With our apartment facing directly onto the (very nice) pool, the most overused three words of our holiday quickly become "where is he?"
Most visitors know the island by its Castilian name, Ibiza, which is also the name of its main town. And the hedonistic hellspot down the road from where we're staying seems to be called San Antonio by everyone we meet. But all the road signs and maps refer to Eivissa instead of Ibiza, and to Sant Antoni instead of San Antonio. A battle is underway between the local government, keen to return the Balearic islands to their Catalan linguistic roots, and the multilingual inhabitants, for whom Spanish is the majority language, with widespread use of English and German.
A water taxi takes us across the bay to Sant Antoni, which has a deserved reputation as a bit of a kip.
This is where the Ibiza Uncovered crowd, almost exclusively from Britain and Ireland, drink themselves insensible every night. But on a perfect sunny day, with ice cream in hand (or in some cases in fist, on arm, down neck and all over face), it can be a pleasant place to spend a few hours. Considerable efforts have been made to spruce up the seafront for the family market. Choreographed fountains get oohs and ahs from the juniors, and there are excellent playground facilities.
With a car rented at a reasonable rate (go for one of the smaller local operators rather than the big names), we are free to decide on a day-to-day basis whether we'll stay local or head off for an adventure. To our south are a string of attractive bays and beaches that aren't too overdeveloped, such as Cala Tarida and Cala Moli. We particulary enjoy Cala Vadella, a golden cove surrounded by high cliffs, with relatively restrained development targeted mostly at German holidaymakers. These are perfect spots for a few hours' bucket-and-spading and splashing around in the crystal-clear water.
The brand new motorway that whisks you from Sant Antoni to Ibiza/Eivissa town seems excessive for the amount of traffic on it, but we are not yet in high season. Be careful - whether because of the driving habits of the natives, the dodderiness of the car renters, or the altered states of the partygoers, the motorway has a bad reputation for regular smashes.
The huge nightclubs - Amnesia and Privilege - that flank the motorway at its midway point, just outside the village of Sant Rafel, like aircraft hangars, are starting to look a bit tatty. But we're not here for them. We're off to Dalt Vila, the old town of Eivissa, a magnificent fortified jumble of walls, battlements, jumbled streets and fortified emplacements floating hundreds of metres above the busy modern port. It's a tough climb - but well worth it - to the massive bastions built in the 16th century.
At the foot of Dalt Vila's walls, beside the harbour, narrow whitewashed streets are lined with bars, restaurants, and shops ranging from tourist tat to high fashion. The atmosphere is laid-back and cosmopolitan. But, as in most places on the island, there's a warm welcome for small children and a tolerance for their foibles that would put most Irish establishments to shame.
A day spent in a friend's modernist villa perched high up in the hills among orange trees and olive groves offers another perspective on the island's charms.
Away from the coast, there is a real sense of calm beauty (only slightly spoiled by the small boy's attempt to divebomb off the roof terrace). A trip down the hill to the local tapas bar offers a taste of the real Ibiza: locals and crusties/hippies (I was too polite to ask) chatting over glasses of wine and small plates of savoury delicacies while Spain thrash Russia on the telly. Whoever thought up the idea of tapas deserves the gratitude of all parents of small picky eaters - there's always something that proves acceptable.
The authorities' attempts to push Ibiza upmarket are bearing some fruit. Hollywood celebrities are buying up prime locations for their walled compounds, and, as in other coastal parts of Spain, the worst excesses of overdevelopment are finally being addressed (even if in some places it's far too late).
But one of the pleasures of Ibiza lies in seeing all these different worlds rubbing together - just around the corner from the cooler-than-thou sunset bar, there's always a no-frills restaurant serving excellent food at low prices for the locals.
The island's long history as a counterculture haven, from stoned hippies in the 1960s to ecstatic ravers in the 1990s, gives it a slightly zoned-out atmosphere that feels strangely familiar to the parents of small children (albeit for rather different reasons). And, with a sandcastle and a paddle never more than a couple of minutes away, who would want anything more?
For information on holidays in Ibiza, visit www.ibiza.travel- Hugh Linehan
Where to stay, eat and go on the island
Where to stay
A villa seemed the best option for us. We visited www.holidayhomesdirect.ie, chose "Spain" and "Ibiza" from the drop-down menus and selected a three-bedroom villa with its own pool and exceptional hillside views. We have now decided that, for future family-oriented holidays, we will always book villas or apartments - they're more affordable, private and relaxing.
Where to eat
• Sa Capella. Carretera Sta Inés, San Antonio, 00-34-971- 340057, www.ibiza- restaurants.com/sacapella. Located in a 400-year-old former chapel, this is the best restaurant we visited. With local artwork adorning the walls, and candles lighting the mood, this is probably the most romantic spot on Ibiza, so leave the kids behind.
• Plaza del Sol. Dalt Vila, Ibiza town, 00-34-971-187481, www.plazadelsolibiza.com. Stop off at this mimosa-lined terrace restaurant and cafe in the Old Town if you want to breathe easy after a steep walk. Its garlic prawns are foodie bliss, its steps adorned with terracotta pots filled with fruit - a nice, colourful touch.
• Restaurant Can Curreu. Santa Eulalia, 00-34-971-335280, www.cancurreu.com. Part of the Can Curreu estate, this is a white-linen, fine-dining venue with excellent food and beautiful rustic surrounds. We had a lovely meal that was spoiled by a sullen waitress.
• Villa Mercedes. Passeig de la Mar, San Antonio, 0034-971-348543, www.villamercedesibiza.com. Located by the marina, about five minutes from Café del Mar, this is a cool kind of place. Sit on the terrace drinking an invigorating cocktail as you flick through the menu.
• El Carmen, Cala D'Hort, 00-34-971-187449. Does this beach restaurant have the best location on Ibiza? We think so - it is directly opposite the dramatic spike of rock known as Es Vedra. The food is simple and delicious, and it gets our gong for friendliest restaurant on Ibiza.
Where to go
• Northern Ibiza. We hired a car and used it to discover the northern half of the island, the least populated part. You'll be pleasantly surprised at how peaceful and verdant it is, compared to the urban retreats of Ibiza town and San Antonio.
• Café del Mar. 27 Paseo Vara De Rei, San Antonio, 00-34-971-347543. By now an institution, this remains the most famous place to sit, sip and watch the sunset.
• Es Vedra, Cala d'Hort. This 380m craggy island is like nothing you've seen before, and has been noted for its supposed mythical and mysterious status. To get here you need a nifty car - the roads are hairpin-steep and narrow.
• Formentera. The rather flat but charming sister island. An ideal one-day trip (by ferry from Ibiza town's marina).
• Dalt Vila. The Old Town is a must-see when you're in Ibiza - a Unesco World Heritage Site with narrow winding lanes leading to some very good restaurants and stunning views.
Where to shop
• Las Dalias hippy market, Sant Carles de Peralta. There are several hippy markets on the island that set up shop on various days of the week; the best is the market at Sant Carles on Saturday. Large and labyrinthine, this boasts Bedouin-type cafes, performance artists and all the hippy clothes you'll ever need.
Hot (or not) spot
Depending on taste and age, San Antonio's West End gathering of pubs, clubs, lap-dancing venues and stag and hen outings is either heaven or hell. It is an instructive place to people-watch as they negotiate a slippery path to the mother (and father) of all hangovers.
Top tips
• Hire a car.
• Make sure your villa has air conditioning.
• Don't do anything dumb, such as buying drugs - the police are hardcore.
• Go parasailing (book at a number of marina beach outlets) for an incredibly serene, weightless experience.
• Order a Dirty Coffee cocktail (Kahlúa, Irish Mist, Jack Daniels) at the Sunsea Bar (51 Calle Cervantes, San Antonio, 00-971-803778, www.sunseabar-ibiza.com) - along the promenade - watch the yachts drift by and don't think of work. - Tony Clayton-Lea