Leinster's highest mountain offers little in the way of beauty, but it does provide climbers with a challenging ascent that will leave a lasting impression on them, writes Seán Mac Connell
NO ONE SO FAR writing in this slot has said anything negative about any mountain they climbed. It has all been glowing stuff about height and width and beautiful views and wonderful wildlife. I am going to put my neck on the line by telling you that there is one mountain I do not like, have never liked and, even if I live to be 101, am unlikely to love in any way.
It is Lugnaquillia, Leinster's highest mountain, which stands like an overweight statue at the southern end of the Wicklow mountain range. It has a plateau-type summit and steep glacial corries on the north and south sides.
The only reason most people climb it is that it is Leinster's largest mountain and is therefore an Irish Munro: in other words, it is more than 915m (3,000ft) tall and qualifies internationally as a mountain.
The fact is that the Lug, as it is known, is an ugly bit of landscape, and I venture to suggest that were it a human being it would have no friends and were it a horse it would never win a race.
It does not impress me that the mountain is named after Lu or Lugh, the great god of light who led the De Danaans at the battle of Moytura, and who slew Balor of the Evil Eye with his sling. He is a Celtic Hermes or Apollo.
He may well be all of those things, but there is no great pleasure in traversing his flanks, as you are unlikely to see any deer or falcons, but you will hear the rattle of artillery from the army ranges on the northern side of the mountain.
In fact you have to use a very battered army road to make your way up the Lug on the tourist route that begins at Fentons pub, probably the best feature of the entire district.
Park your car there, take the path that goes past the gable end of the pub and follow "Banana Road", which was given its name by the visiting army that left this part of the country in the 1920s, after an 800-year stay.
Follow this badly rutted path until it starts heading upwards, when you cross a stile that takes you out on a well-worn path, leading on to Camara Hill, which lies between you and the top of the Lug.
Camara Hill, a decent climb, has a well-trodden path that will eventually lead to to the summit base, at the bottom of the hardest bit of the climb, through an undefined area of a boulder field and scree.
On your left you can see North Prison cliff and its circular coombe, which is greatly loved by those who like climbing up it in the snow. I gather that this one of the best-trodden paths in the country when the snow begins to fall.
The top of the Lug is without any paths or markers, but there is a large cairn, which is added to on a weekly basis by those who like to leave a rock on top of the mountain they have just climbed. Be aware that unless you can use a compass and read a map, do not go up there when it is cloudy.
The guidebooks will tell you that the views from here are breathtaking, and that may be so, but they will only be breathtaking if you get a clear day. Most days Lu has his head stuck in the clouds, and you will see nothing.
One of the many times I interfaced with the Lug - there is always someone who wants to be brought up there - I did see Wales and a good lump of south Leinster, but that was a very rare day indeed.
My reservations apart, if the Lug has to be climbed, that is the easiest way to do it. Be careful coming down through the boulders, and bring a compass and take bearings, because over the year Lu has claimed a lot of victims, who fell off the cliffs in the mist. The danger of unexploded shells also carries a risk.
Lugnaquillia, Co Wicklow
How to get there: Drive to Aghavanagh, near Donard off the Dublin-Baltinglass route, and follow the road to Fentons Pub.
Height924m (3,013ft).
Time and distanceAllow four hours to make the climb comfortable. You can cover the 12km route in less time - but not safely.
DifficultiesOnly for experienced walkers or those in the company of experienced walkers who can use a map and a compass.
Places to stayThere are two hostels in the immediate area and lots of guest houses. Celebrate at the finish at Fentons, or in Juniors in Rathdangan if you have a designated driver.